Neal
No worries - just happy to share experiences, but do shout if there are specific questions when planning the trip. Plenty of good folks here to draw on for ideas.
regards
Ian
We had a most relaxing 4-day visit at Piedmont in December last month.
We did not eat at Ristorante Brovio at La Morra, due to time constraints. However, it was recommended to us by the owner of another excellent restaurant where we had dinner about 4 weeks ago. The restaurant was Il Centro in the town of Priocca. The Piedmontese classic dishes were truly delicious and the deep wine list with plenty of listed mature Barolo/Barberosco is well worth the trek to this restaurant. For Euro80, we ordered a pristine 1988 Produttori de Barbaresco Riserva Asili that’s been stored in the restaurant’s basement cellar since release. I would have loved to order more wines, but it was just the wife and I and she doesn’t drink any more than a glass with her meal as she may have to share driving duties with me for our drive back to the hotel. The bottle of Barbaresco, in addition to a well-executed 4-course meal for 2 and a few glasses of local Langhe whites and sparkling wine set us back Euro 180.
http://www.ristoranteilcentro.com/it/
For our 4-night stay, my wife booked us at a small, but very friendly, professional-run and nicely-appointed Le Torri hotel in the town of Castiglione-Falleto. As our trip was a hurriedly-planned one for the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day, I did not have time to make winery visit appointments, and with less than a week before our arrival, after a couple of exchanges of email, our hotel was able to make arrangements for our very enjoyable private visits to Fratelli Barale in the town of Barolo and Moccagatta in Barbaresco.
http://www.letorri-hotel.com/
Riccardo, thanks for the advice. We have noticed that on previous trips. I should have added that my sister in law who will be joining us with her kids lives in Messina and she shares your views of taking kids everywhere.
Ian,
Thanks for the pointers. I hear ya about August in Italy. Unfortunately, that’s the only time that I can take the family for any length of time. I will say though that my wife and I went to Rome and Florence without the kids last year arriving on Ferrogusto and it really wasn’t so bad. Lots of places closed but enough options and more every day. And you can get some great hotel deals at the higher end places.
We are thinking that there might be as many as 7 adults and 4 kids now so I’ve been checking out villas. The prices don’t look too bad and hopefully the Euro will keep dropping so when the bulk is due it will be cheaper yet. Im guessing that a pool for the kiddies will make a big difference. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
James
I spent 2.5 weeks in Barolo this summer. Don’t miss Da Bardon in San Marzano Oliveto (it was a 45 minute drive from Barolo and worth every minute–best ravioli plin of the trip plus best secondi (veal stinco), plus they may have the best wine list in the Piemonte), Il Centro in Priocca (Michelin-star, but humble and gracious family-owned restaurant, extraordinarily high level of cooking, but menu is still very much Piemontese, not international), La Torre in Cherasco (15 minutes from Barolo), maybe just a hair behind Da Bardon, incredible tajarin with coniglio ragu (and for the complimentary dolce, a meringue wafer with ricotta stuffing is not to be missed), Osteria Veglio in Annunziata (the chef-sister is a vegetarian, so you will get more vegetables here than anywhere else, the sister working the dining room, Fiorenza, is just as nice as she can be–bonus is spectacular terrace view across the valley toward Castiglione Falletto), and La Coccinella in Serravalle Langhe (SW of Monforte, beautiful winding drive, owned by 3 brothers, they do a special seafood menu on weekends-we enjoyed this so much, we ate there twice). We also enjoyed Trattoria della Posta in Monforte (we did a light lunch there after a tasting at Elio Grasso-need to go back for a fuller dining experience, but our meal was first rate).
Finally, for a casual meal any time between 11-8, go to Centro Storico in Serralunga. Alessio Cighetti is the proprietor and his wife and mother-in-law handle the cooking. Alessio has a great wine list, particularly of Champagne.
I highly recommend the Chowhound website and the User “Allende” for the best and most up-to-date Piemonte dining recommendations. Here is the link: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/974240
Jeff
the place mentioned up top in Santa Vittoria d’Alba is the only one we’ve stayed at with a pool, but as we normally visit in May/October, a pool is low on priorities. With 7 adults and 4 kids you could hire all of them and not feel cramped.
Here’s the link and the photo faces onto the back of the apartments, with pool and then bbq/patio area which is ideal for relaxed meals
Breakfasts are included and are decent (perhaps good by Italian standards - usually the most basic / humdrum meal of the day). Rates were very cheap when we were there. Apartments also have a washing machine which makes life so much easier. I’m not sure if there was aircon (worth a check on the site), but the design should meant they don’t overheat and only the mozzies (not the noise) would stop you leaving the windows open.
The lady owner was fairly chilled/aloof, not in a bad way, but very much left you to get on with it unless you needed her. There is a village shop and 2-3 restaurants in the village, though you need crampons to climb up to the most prestigious place (only moderately joking - it was a steep hill and a light drizzle put us off the walk up there). They are right next to a winery if you fancy a tasting on-site. Nothing super from what I could make out, but might appeal as an easy option.
Trains (30 mins walk) go from the unmanned station to Bra/Alba if you fancy leaving the car behind.
Plenty of big out of town stores on the main (Alba-Bra) road including a big supermarket and Decathlon sports store (French but all over Europe and plenty of good stuff well priced).
Definitely worth looking at the LangheRoero.it site though, as the listings are extensive and the tourist office folk are excellent, and can advise options if you let them know what you seek.
regards
Ian
I thought I would throw myself on the mercy of the boards and dig for a little more information. We have rented a house in Bonvicino which is a little southeast of Dogliani. We found a wonderful villa which can accommodate the entire family. We are there for the last week in August so I am prepared for a lot of things to be closed. Unfortunately its the only time we could all get together.
Anyway in anticipation of spending many days at the villa (there will be 4 young kids) and having many meals at home I was wondering if I could pick people’s brains as to where would be a good place to pick up some wine. Since we will be saving money be eating at home a lot, I’d like to pick up some Barolo or Barbaresco with some bottle age. We are driving over from Venice/Verona so I could stop along the way.
Of course any restaurant and winery recommendations will be great. I have seen previous posts which give some great website information. At least one meal, it will probably be just my wife and I but for others (lunch and possibly dinner) it would be a large family.
Again thanks to Ian and others for comments. I thought I would go to the well one more time as I assume it is time to start doing some more detailed planning.
Thanks,
James
James - Bill Klapp, who’s forgotten more about Piemonte then most of us will ever know, recommended Grand Vini in Alba (http://www.grandivinialba.com/) for older vintages. Their inventory is online so you can see what to expect. If you drop into the shop be sure to ask to see the cellar - that’s where the good stuff is kept. Pricing is a bit high (which is true in all of Piemonte wine shops - cellar door and restaurant prices is great, but not so much in wine shops) - I’m sure if you search you can find better deals between Venice and Alba. However the storage conditions and selection are both fantastic.
Brian
James
I don’t recall if I made reference to it in this thread, but if you have an apple or android device (phone, tablet or even I-player) then the wonderful Golosario publication does a free ‘app’, which despite being the most luddite app of all time (just a scan of the shops section of the book) is brilliant for us tourists who like our food & stay in apartments / villas. They may not find every great food shop, but pretty much every suggestion is at least ‘very good’ and it’s rare they miss anything special. I buy the book every 2-3 years, even though it doesn’t change rapidly.
It’s in Italian language, but with enough pictures and symbols that even nil Italian language wouldn’t be a problem. So much nicer to sniff out artisan food, than relying on Bennet, PAM, CRAI, Spar, Carrefour, Iper, esselunga, CONAD etc.
Of course the markets can be very good as well, so I’d definitely recommend looking up ‘Mercato+ the nearest towns’ to find out what days they’re on. Acqui Terme’s small market was pretty good - nice quality. Alba’s is often excellent.
regards
Ian
James,
There are enotecas everywhere. I wouldn’t worry too much about where to find wines. We stayed in Barolo last summer and bought wines at Enoteca Antica Turchese in Barolo and at Centro Storico in Serralunga. Also, there are no open container laws in Italy so feel free to buy and carry bottles out of restaurants.
Since you will be dining at home frequently, you should avail yourself of the market in Dogliani on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Tuesdays have a small contadini market, but on Saturdays there is a larger contadini market, particularly by the river where there is an open-air pavilion with a roof. You can’t miss it. Market days in La Morra and Monforte are on Monday mornings. Tuesday and Saturday are the market days in Alba. For daily supplies, the La Famila grocery store in Dogliani is a good resource.
Places to eat down your way–I would recommend the following: La Coccinella in Serravalle Langhe, Trattoria della Posta in Monforte, La Torre in Cherasco, Osteria Veglio in Annunziata and Centro Storico in Serralunga. This year we intend to also try Osteria da Gemma in Roddino and Barolo Friends Wine Bar in Barolo.
You can buy cheese in a lot of places, but a friend who stays in La Morra several months each year informs me that THE place to buy cheese is Giolito Formaggio in Bra. http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/01/inside-one-of-italys-best-cheese-shops-giolit.html
Enjoy!
Jeff
Ian, Brian and Jeff,
Thanks for all the great suggestions. Lots to work with here. Since almost 1/2 of the people staying at the villa speak Italian we should be able to get by even in August.
James
You should go to Alba centro. Find Piazza Savona(just next to Hotel/Cafe Savona) and walk down Vittorio Emanuele away from Piazza Savona. On the walk down on both sides you will find various food shops with cheese, pasta, Salami and wine. This is one of the best shops in the area.
If you go to Alba, I recommend that you park at the paid parking garage at the Piazza San Paolo: Home Italy | Best in Parking
I think street parking in Alba, with the paid meters where you can insert your credit card or drop in coins, is not hard to find. I one instance, I even went back to our car and drove around town to move it much closer to the place where we decided to have lunch in.
I am usually there in the spring. But I have never had problems finding good close parking on the street. Just down(south?) the block from the traffic circle across the street from the fountain and Piazza Savona.
I checked out Alba. Looks like a winner. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have set up my first winery visit at Guiseppe Mascarello, the thought of which helps me get through a crazy stretch of work. Based on what people have posted, it sounds like the owners are quite generous with their time. I often bring my host a bottle of wine to start the tour off on the right note. Have any of you done that and if so what would your bring. I was thinking of some Thomas pinot from Oregon since that would certainly be interesting or is it too obscure. Thoughts?
James
I’ve not done that, and it’s not expected, but is a nice gesture.
We did on a return visit to a friendly little winery in Ghemme, give them some foods etc. from home. This being Italy though, somehow we seemed to leave with more gifts than we brought for them!
regards
Ian
Hi James
oops - I penned a note to point you to what I thought was a better idea (to take some US craft beer) and then realised it was you that posted that other message ![[oops.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/1/1f129ddad071ffe5db6c99817c3cab666035a70a.gif "oops"){kind=small}
Definitely I think some interesting beer is the way to go.
regards
Ian
I’m now thinking about bringing some killer green chili pistachios from NM that I discovered years ago. And maybe a nice hoppy IPA just in case they like hoppy beers.
Thanks for your the help. Looks like we may get a tour at Conterno as well. Going to be an amazing trip.
James