Help Planning First Trip to Italy

Ian -
I have been as recently as 2 years ago, and agree with your statements. I find Amalfi much less touristy then Positano. That said I have stayed each time (4 trips?) at the Santa Caterina (great place, btw, if a little pricey) and only headed into town for food or lite shopping. If the OP does go, I highly recommend Ristorante Eolo in Amalfi - great food and a great and fairly priced wine list.

Still working on the itinerary, but we are leaning towards spending most of the trip around Tuscany, perhaps spending part of the week in a villa near Siena (with day trips to surrounding towns, wineries) and several days in Florence. Depending on how much time we have, we are considering Cinque Terre as well.

Any recommendations for hotels in Florence and house rental agencies around Siena?

thanks

We stayed at the Hotel Lungarno in Florence. Absolutely huge room, even the shower would have held six people! Overlooks the river, which was extra nice. I would definitely stay there again.

Jan
No specific recommendations for Siena accommodation, as the place we stayed at was a fairly bland set of apartments overlooking the city that would probably be better for families in summer, than two adults in early October. Not bad, just not a great choice for us.

I will recommend Colle val d’Elsa, which you can drive to or get a bus from Central Siena. Nice historic centre with a striking and attractive main square. The place we ate at was very good as well (which helps). It’s also famous for (crystal) glass, so can be a nice place to buy some glasses or a decanter if you’ve got the space to haul them back home.

Worth checking www.specialplacestostay.com (Alistair Sawday guides) for something typically quirky/charming (especially good for anyone who stays in hotels for work, and would thus find similar places appalling for a holiday stay). www.agriturismo.it is a fine resource for farmstays which are very good in Italy. Expect genuine hospitality, local (their own) produce and when they do meals, sumptuous banquets coming in more courses than you can count on two hands (and sometimes two feet as well!).

regards
Ian

Stayed here just outside Siena and Monteriggioni. Close to Colle val d’Elsa and the ancient hilltowns.

Would recommend it. Very Tuscan.

I recommend staying near/in/around Greve/Panzano, half way between Florence and Siena, with great access to both and the Tuscan hill towns.
Lots of choices in and around Greve and Panzano, but we particularly like the apartments and ‘villas’ rented by the Manetti family in the middle of the family’s Fontodi vineyards.

In Siena, the Hotel Grand Continental is fantastic. A new ‘building’ constructed inside a 17 century palazzo. One of my favorite hotels, anywhere.

In Florence, we have stayed many times at the Palazzo Noccolini al Duomo. A 7 room hotel constructed in a private palazzo adjacent to the Duomo. Quiet and beautiful, with original frescoes decorating the walls.

If you have a chance, visit Bellagio. Highly recommend the Belvedere Hotel.

If you are going to be spending a lot of time driving around Tuscany and/or visiting wineries, I might recommend staying in the countryside because it can take quite a while to get in and out of the cities. We were just in Florence last summer (the St Regis is spectacular and one of the best uses of Starwood points I can imagine) and it probably took 10-15 minutes to get out to the highway. Siena is also a pain in the neck to drive in/out of - plan your routes carefully in advance or you will waste a lot of time.

I remember staying at a beautiful old villa years ago called Villa Arceno. Seem to recall it was NE of Siena.

I haven’t read the whole thread but have a few refs to throw out - sorry if they are duplicates…

Don’t miss San Gimignano, plan to spend an afternoon wandering around the town - one of my favorite towns anywhere. Have lunch or dinner at Bel Soggiorno and ask for a table at the big windows overlooking the hills and countryside, incredible view (food was reasonably price but very good and wine list was good and very well priced (for instance, We ordered a 2010 Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo for about 40E)).

Also, don’t miss Palazzo Pretorio in San Donato in Poggio for some of the best pizza you will have ever had. Only open for dinner I believe. Ask to be seated on the terrace outside and above the restaurant for a great view of the countryside. Order a couple of bottles of cheap local wine and relax as the sun sets.

In Florence we had a terrific late lunch at a small wine bar across from the Pitti Palace called Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina - great and interesting selection of wines both bottle and by the glass and food was much better than we were expecting at a wine bar.

For a great dining experience at a modern style Michelin starred restaurant try Ora d’Aria - we had a fantastic meal there. Perhaps not a Florentine classic place but it may have been our best meal in Florence.

On a beautiful night around sunset, go have a drink at the outside terrace on the roof of the Westin in Florence - nice way to start the evening.

Another restaurant to consider is La Tenda Rosa which is in a small town a bit south of Florence. We didn’t go on the last trip because we didn’t feel like the drive out from Florence but when I went in the late 90s it was an incredible meal. You should look up some current reviews but I remember that the comments were still very good.

Also, not sure your timing for flying out but we were flying out of Rome and it would have been tough to get there from Florence easily the morning of the flight so we stayed outside of a Rome on the coast at a wonderful old villa called Posta Vecchio - great restaurant as well. Quite enjoyable and made it easy the next day since it was a quick drive to the airport the next morning.

Simply cannot recommend Florence enough. The architecture, the food, the history… Just an amazing place.

Enjoy!

One place I would certainly recommend, having recently visited during ski season, is the Dolomites. There’s a new museum to the first world war battles that took place in the mountains (you can still see the trenches, bomb craters etc etc) opening this july at the top of the Marmolada cable car. It will be the highest museum in the world apparently! Absolutely, stunning scenary - it’s a unesco world heritage site for good reason. Great hotels and restaurants and fantastic area for walking. I can strongly recommend the new Hotel Beludei in Santa Cristina.

Dan
Ta for this - possibly a bit far (for a day trip) from where we’ll be in Trento, but it does appeal.
regards
Ian

Milan Restaurant help.

Looking for a place for dinner tonight in the Navagli neighborhood (near the canals). I’m with my wife and adult daughter. Price is no object, as long as your suggestion is in the 15 - 25 euro range. Any type of food works, but preferably Italian or fish.

Since I have limited computer access, would you mind e mailing me at dhammer 53 at aol dot com

Duplicate

LOL. In true berserker fashion, I imagine you got lots of 50 euro-a-plate sushi recommendations

Go to Osteria del Binari, on Via Tortona, behind the Porta Genova station. Maybe a little more expensive than 25 Euros, but worth it. Weather permitting, ask to sit in the garden. And don’t fill up on the antipasti. Via Tortona, 3 Tel 02.83.95.095. Not on the canals, but not too far…

Thanks Mark,

We went to Officina 12. It’s on the quieter side of the canal. Nice place. Low key. We were able to hear ourselves talk. Pasta in the 12 euro range. Meat in the mid 20’s. Good food. We did see some younger people there, but most were on the other side of the canal in the cool. hip, bar type places. This place had jazz background music.

Dan

Heads up on Parma. It is a little over 60 minutes by train from Milan. Good for a day trip, but we spent 2 nights and close to 2 days here.
You can do worse. More to follow when we return.

We’re planning our first visit to Italy (Rome, Florence, Tuscany, then down to Amalfi) in September. We’ve only got three nights for the Tuscan countryside. Three questions for you all: First, do you think there is enough time to visit San Gimignano, Siena, and Montepulciano in three days/nights, or would that be too much? Second, would you headquarter yourself in one town–say, Siena–and hire cars to specific sites/vineyards, or would you stay in each town for one night each? Three, do you all recommend hiring a private driver, and if so, does anyone have recommendations?

Thanks to everyone, the threads on Italy have been really helpful for our planning.

I would base myself in Siena and do day trips from there. Siena is the larger of the three towns, very enjoyable and close to Chianti. Try and hit Volterra as well. Also nearby.