Brad,
We were just in Kenmare for one day, but the lunch spot was excellent. I’ll scan my credit card receipts to see if I can find the name. Didn’t stay overnight, but it just looked like a town with a nice combo of small-med size–big enough for eating, drinking choices, small enough not to feel like you’re part of the “herd”. Wednesday is a sort of craft/farmer’s market day, which is a hoot. The Dingle Penninsula is sort of
Ring of Kerry without the tour busses. The town itself is a charmer, but it’s the drive around that will get you. Lot’s–and I mean lots–of stunning views. You just stumble on stuff. For example, a guy playing Irish Trad music on the flute in a viewpoint turnout. Just mystical. Head over Connor Pass if you have the time. A bit out of the way, but worth the drive. I also like Mike’s post about the Beara Way trip. Didn’t do it and I’m kicking myself. If you’re in the Cork area, check out the Middleton Distillery. IMHO, their “Very Rare” is the best whiskey I found in either Ireland or Scotland. In Kinsale, we ate at Fishy, Fishy–best meal of the trip.
I’ll second Chapter One. I’ve been there twice and had outstanding meals both times. Shanahan’s on the Green is also a good steakhouse. Went to another great restaurant down from the Shelbourne beyond the Green, can’t recall the name. I was in Dublin this past Feb. for 5 days (stayed at the Westin - I recommend it) and visited 22 pubs. Dublin is an underrated European city IMO.
I’d like to casually disagree with some who have characterized the Temple Bar district is being purely touristy. Although this area does cater to a lot of tourists, the reason is due to the density of good pubs and fine food. When there’s an event like an international rugby match (I was there for the Ireland vs. Scotland match), it’s a must visit area. The things you’ll see are memorable indeed.
Surprisingly casual, even on a Friday evening. Many gentleman without jackets and almost none with ties. Some in jeans with jacket. Much more casual than I expected. Ladies, pretty much anything goes.
Reporting on the trip, but not risking boring with too much detail.
Kenmare, County Kerry. Spent four nights here. Rented a cottage just outside of town in Templenoe Heights. Small, but good outdoor market in Kenmare on Wednesday. Purchased food and cooked our own dinner. Did that most nights, opting to eat lunches out. Drove the Ring of Kerry one day. Skellig Chocolates worth the stop. Very good lunch (smoked fish pie) at Camo’s in Caherciveen. Toured and hiked in Killarney National Park one day. Took a day trip to Kinsale another day. Excellent lunch at Fishy Fishy, best mussels I’ve ever had.
Dublin, County Dublin. Spent one night here before the marathon. Hotel Dawson was very friendly and accommodating. Nice dinner at Matt the Thresher (my wife really liked this place). The race itself was fine. My worst finishing time in six marathons, and I’ll chalk it up to recovering from a training injury, not fueling up enough in the days leading up, and the long drive from Kenmare the previous day. After the race, purchased food to cook at our next vacation rental, where we would be driving that same night. Driving in Dublin was not a problem at all. But I was there on a Sunday and a bank holiday Monday.
Blessington, County Wicklow. We stayed in a fantastic vacation rental about 6km outside of town. Cooked all evening meals here. Spent one day touring Russborough House (well worth a visit), and had another exceptional lunch. This one at Ballymore Inn in Ballymore Eustace. Visited Glendalough another day (nice drive through the Wicklow Mountains). Lunch was at a tiny deli in Laragh where everything was made from scratch, and prepared very well. Final day trip was to Kilkenny to see the castle. Lunch at Langton’s was solid, but probably the weakest of all meals out. It wasn’t bad; it’s just that other places outperformed it. Went out one night to the West Wicklow House on traditional Irish music night. It was more of a jam session of locals who brought in their instruments, and each took his or her turn leading a number. Very cool.
A nice trip. A beautiful country.
I really appreciate the folks who checked back in with their “trip reports”! Thank you, and I will utilize the information provided by all who contributed to this thread on my next year’s visit!
Thanks, ![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
Andrew
Heading back in late May, looking forward to it! Anything new?
Andrew
Not new, but in June we ate well at L’Ecrivain, Lock’s Brasserie, and DAX. Really wanted to go to Chapter One, but our schedule and theirs didn’t work out
Very much recommend a great gastropub, L. Mulligan Grocer, in the Stoneybatter section of Dublin, on the North Side above the Four Courts. A bit of a journey from the center of town assuming you will be staying near St Stephen’s Green/Grafton Street/Trinity College so take a cab there and back. Very good food and wine and excellent beer.
I have heard great things about Forest Avenue, on Sussex Terrace, but have not been, yet. Friends who know their stuff are very enthusiastic and I am looking forward to going next time I am there.
Second Mark Kaplan’s views on L’Ecrivain, Dax and Chapter One (where you can generally drink Raveneau for decent prices). The Cliff Town House on Stephens Green is also very good.
Thanks for the updates!
Andrew
DAX is one restaurant that we missed but was one I really wanted to try…Ran out of days. Loved their e-mails and updates.
Cheers!
Marshall
Had a great time on our recent visit. Here are some quick notes … Highly recommend breakfasts at Hatch & Sons and at Gerry’s Coffee Shop, an extremely casual greasy spoon that is a local favorite. Foley’s for casual lunch fare, and Cliff Townhouse, Winding Stair, Forest Avenue, and a new place, Delahunt (once it straightens out some service/training issues) for dinner. Chapter One was disappointing, with terrific food, but a weird, cold, somewhat inattentive vibe. First rate seafood bar at the Shelbourne. Always enjoy The Duke for classic Irish pub food and just good drinking, and cannot miss The Stag’s Head for later in the evening drinks. Also enjoyed cocktails at Coppinger Row.
Slainte!
Andrew
Parents were born in Ireland, so I have dual citizenship, and I go back every summer. FWIW, here are the places Anthony Bourdain visited in Dublin on The Layover.
The starred ones are places I’ve been and highly recommend (slowly working my way through this list).
*1) John Kavanagh’s
North of the Liffey
Known as “The Gravediggers”, due to boneyard *Glasnevin Cemetery next door (a good tour, where most of the Irish patriots are buried). This is THE classic Irish pub, great for the perfect Guinness (in the smoke-stained lefthand room, which hasn’t changed in 100 years) and decent food (coddle, pigs feet, in the more modern righthand room). Also located next to the *National Botanic Gardens, which is a destination in itself.
1 Prospect Square
Glasnevin
Dublin 9
(01) 8307978
2) The Cobblestone
North of Liffey, for pub music, not too far from Jamesons Distillery.
77 N King Street
Dublin 7
(01) 8721799
Mon & Tues from 9pm
Weds - Sat from 7pm
Sun from 2pm
On Saturdays there is also an oldtime string band session with Bill Whelan & friends from 4.30-7.00pm.
All of these sessions are free of charge.
http://www.cobblestonepub.ie
3) Slattery’s
North of the Liffey
A so-called “early house” opening at 7AM (one of only 7 left), for a traditional Irish Breakfast.
129 Capel Street
Dublin 1
(01) 8746844
4) The Cake Cafe
South of the Liffey, Grafton St area, behind stationary store with outside patio seating
The Daintree Building
Pleasants Place
Dublin 2
(01) 4789394
thecakecafe.ie
http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-cake-café-dublin-2
5) O’Donovan
South of the Liffey, in Docklands, for “Breakfast Meal” (roll) sandwich
44 Pearse Street
Dublin 2
(01) 6775292
*6) Cathach Books
South of the Liffey, near *Grafton St, a wonderful rare books dealer that covers everything up to an including Joyce first editions.
10 Duke St
Dublin 2
(01) 6718676
rarebooks.ie
*7) Celtic Whiskey Shop
South of the Liffey, Grafton St area, this is pretty much a must-do if you love whiskey (Irish whiskey is doing amazing things these days)
27-28 Dawson Street
Dublin 2
(01) 6759744
*8) Sheridan’s Cheesemongers
South of the Liffey, Grafton St area, this is a fantastic shop for Irish farmhouse cheeses, which they can vacuum pack for your trip home
11 South Anne Street
Dublin 2
(01) 6793143
9) Bear
South of the Liffey, Grafton St area, a steakhouse that features unusual cuts
34-35 South William Street
Dublin 2
(01) 4744888
joburger.ie/bear.html
10) Crackbird
South of the Liffey, in *Temple Bar, for fried chicken
60 Dame Street
Dublin 2
11) Skinflint
South of the Liffey, in Temple Bar, for grilled pizza
19 Crane Lane
Dublin 2
(01) 6709719
skinflint.joburger.ie
12) The Palace Bar
South of the Liffey, in Temple Bar, for whiskey
21 Fleet Street
Dublin 2
(01) 6717388
*13) The Bar at the Four Seasons
In Ballsbridge, just down the street from the Royal Dublin Society where they hold the *Dublin Horse Show in early August (spectacular), have a drink with ladies with big hats.
Simmonscourt Road
Ballsbridge
Dublin 4
(01) 6654000
fourseasons.com/dublin
14) Coppinger Row
South of the Liffey, in Grafton St area, for cocktails
1 William Street S
Dublin 2
(01) 6729884
coppingerrow.com
15) The Chop House
In Ballsbridge, a gastropub and one of Dublin’s most acclaimed restaurants, reservations online
2 Shelbourne Road
Ballsbridge
Dublin 4
thechophouse.ie
16) Chapter One
North of the Liffey, 1 Michelin star
Basement of The Writers Museum
18-19 Parnell Square
Dublin 1
(01) 8732266
chapteronerestaurant.com
17) The Winding Stair
North of Liffey, bookshop & cafe, wines, organic
40 Ormond Quay
Dublin 1
(01) 8727320
*18) The Long Hall
South of the Liffey, one of Dublin’s classic pubs
51 South Great George’s Street
Dublin 2
(01) 4751590
19) Mulligan’s, pub
South of the Liffey, in the Docklands
8 Poolbeg Street
Dublin 2
(01) 6775582
mulligans.ie
20) Hogan’s
South of the Liffey, a pub across from The Long Hall
35 S Great Georges Street
Dublin 2
21) Roma II
South of the Liffey, near Grafton St, a “chip shop”
28 Wexford Street
Dublin 2
(01) 4755595
22) The Gigs Place
South of the Liffey, near Grafton St, serves late night breakfast, opens at Midnight
South Richmond Street
Portobello
Dublin 2
homepage.eircom.net/~petecassidy/t…
23) Matt The Thresher
South of the Liffey, Merrion Square (Merrion Square is a lovely park that gets overshadowed by St. Stephens), oysters & Guinness for breakfast
31 -32 Lower Pembroke Street
Dublin 2
(01) 6762980
mattthethresher.ie
24) Lolly and Cooks
South of the Liffey, Georgia Street arcade, for a “sausage roll”
Stall 1A
Georges Street Arcade
Dublin 2
(087) 6750865
*25) Fallon & Byrne
South of the Liffey, Grafton St area, a famous 3-floor food mall and restaurant/wine bar, put together a picnic for later in the day
11-17 Exchequer St
Dublin 2
(01) 4721010
http://www.yelp.com/biz/fallon-and-byrne-dublin-2
That should keep anyone busy.
Spent 2 1/2 weeks in Ireland (Aug 2015). Fwiw, I did all the driving… good Avis near Heuston Station, which is a great place to pick up a car once you’re heading out of the city (don’t drive in Dublin, it’s too much of a pain, with too much construction and weird routes). Definitely recommend visiting Kilmainham Jail. Anyway…Here are some restaurants we enjoyed.
Note that reservations are generally recommended, particularly in Dublin, or out west during the tourist season… however, at least outside of Dublin, if you prefer to eat earlier (before 6:00 or maybe 6:30) we found it was generally easy to get into virtually anywhere without reservations. Bistros & Cafes are often European in the sense that they are full restaurants (in contrast to the US where it sometimes indicates a small simple menu).
Dublin:
Had dinner at Fallon & Byrne about 3 weeks ago. It was excellent. Also went to a place call Hot Stove (north, near Parnell statue), which we also enjoyed greatly. The Stag’s Head is a great pub in the city center worth grabbing a drink at. If you’re down near Beggar’s Bush / Ballsbridge, and want to try something different, there’s a little bistro/cafe called Juniors that did a really nice dinner. We sat right across the from the kitchen and enjoyed watching the chef deliver the dishes.
Donegal town:
Great dinner at a B&B with a restaurant. Ard na Breatha.
Galway:
Latin Quarter Wine Bar & Bistro was a great choice one evening.
Killarney:
Milano for a change of pace (had enough fish, beef, or lamb, time to get a pizza…)
Stonechat Cafe
Kilkenny:
Tons of good choices in Kilkenny… think of it as being like Dublin, with lots of interesting restaurants:
- Except with all the sights in a compact area
- It’s not dirty and graffiti ridden
- Good restaurants abound, ones we enjoyed included Lautrec Bistro, Cafe Sol, The Grapevine (tapas)
One note about wine & Irish restaurants in general… unless you go to a truly high end restaurant, the vast majority of selections are wines that would cost between $10 and $40 US. Most are solid choices, but generally nothing spectacular, even at places that bill themselves to be a “wine bar.” Kilkenny has two or three wine stores within the town center. I visited The Wine Centre on John Street, which had a fairly good selection of upscale selections fwiw.