Don’t do the day trips, Dan. Hvar is relatively close to Split, but, if you only do a day trip, you get to see Hvar town, but no time to explore the island. Korcula is pretty much out of the question as a day trip from Split. You’d spend far more time on the boat and a couple of hours or so, at best, in Korcula town. Not worth the trouble.
I think the original plan is much better as it gives you more time to explore the islands themselves a little. Very much worth it for the spectacular landscapes.
If you need any wine-related tips, feel free to PM me before you go.
(If you’re still at the planning stage and have not finalised your itinerary, maybe you should think about spending a day or two on Vis island: the best place of all, by far).
I heard about Vis from 2 other people. Usually that means it’s a must do. Due to our timing and ferry schedules ![[swearing.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/8/8a0d3f3461d40641d294442fc2be78039bf94d19.gif "[swearing.gif]"){kind=small}
, there’s no way to visit Vis.
Looking to downshift after 2 weeks on the road. We like charm, wine, seafood and above all; a chill vibe.
Plan was to ferry to Korcula and relax for 3 or 4 days, but I’m kinda thinking about Rovinj instead.
Any thoughts on Rovinj vs Korcula/another island
Really depends on what you’re after: Rovinj and Korcula are very different places and quite far apart as well.
Rovinj is a quaint enough little place, definitely worth a visit. Istria, the broader region, is a very “civilised” place: good infrastructure, but perhaps a bit short on authentic charm, feels a little derivative to me on the whole. Mind you, most people in Croatia would cry murder at these words: domestically, Istria has the reputation of a place where people are “doing it right” and is often referred to as “Croatia’s Tuscany”. It does have some attractions, but everything is relatively low-key, the landscapes are more monotonous in comparison, and the colours are more muted. Istrian wine is also held in very high regard domestically. Me? While one cannot deny there are a number of very competent winemakers working in Istria these days, to me there is little that truly stands out as strikingly original and inspiring: there is a lot pretty good middle-of-the-road stuff, but it is… well, mostly middle-of-the-road. You can eat quite well there, too (although, again, nothing too exciting from where I stand, it’s all a bit too “organised” and derivative for me).
Korcula is much further south. The climate is different, sharper edges to everything, the light is more intense, everything is much more high-resolution. The setting is spectacular. Feels much more remote, less “civilised”: Istria seems almost teutonic in comparison. There is a wild beauty to the place. Fresh seafood is normally prepared with far less affectation. The best wines (and there are a handful of interesting ones) tend to be far less polished and “worked”. A beautiful island in a beautiful archipelago with some ravishing landscapes and vistas. Last but not least, Korcula town itself is an unspoilt fortified jewel of Venetian coastal architecture.
That would be it, in a nutshell, with a fair bit of good old generalisation thrown in for good measure 
We fly out of Dubrovnik so Korcula makes sense from that standpoint. I started to lean toward Rovinj because I thought I might be less overrun with summer vacationers and might offer a more authentic low key vibe.
Thanks for your input.
Janice and I loved Croatia.
Here’s our itn:
We flew into Dubrovnik, then took the airport shuttle to Old Town. Super easy. We spent 3 days and 3 nights visiting. We managed to fit in a day trip to Montenegro. In retrospect, it wasn’t necessary. From Dubrovnik, we took the ferry (you can take the bus too) to Korcula, where we spent 2 days and 2 nights. If Hawaii has Kauai (where Hawaiians go on vacation), Korcula must be the same. A small laid back and relaxed island. You can stroll around the Old Town wall in 20 - 25 minutes. It’s much smaller than Dubrovnik.
From Korcula, we took the ferry to Hvar, where we spent 2 days and 2 nights. Somewhere along the line, I made the wise decision to relax and smell the roses. We could have done an overnight just to see each island, but it would have been a mistake. Funny thing is that Korcula and Hvar might have deserved a third night! There’s more to do than meets the eye, but you have to get there to figure that out. We also went to the BIER winery and tasted G R K. It’s a grape. The USD $3.50 tasting fee was waved since we purchased 2 of these bottles + a sweetie. We popped one of the G R K wines, along with fresh bread and cheese on our terrace. A regular Berserkerfest. ![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
The winery is located in Lumbarda, on Korcula Island.
If Korcula is the place to relax, as one ferry mate said, Hvar is the place to see and be seen. Plenty of yachts as you arrive. If you’re single and 30 something, Hvar is the place to see and be seen. Now I’m no beach goer (waste of time), we spent the best part of a day just hanging out at a very low key beach with few people to keep us company. We took a water taxi for 60KN roundtrip (~USD $10.75 or Euro 7.91) to Pakleni Islands, from ‘downtown’ Hvar. There are restaurants there to keep you filled up ( food and drinks).
If you look at a map, we were headed north. Dubrovnik, Korcula, Hvar, and then a ferry to Split (civilization). We spent 3 days and 3 nights at the Le Meridien (Starwood). It’s out of the hustle and bustle of the city, but they offer a shuttle bus that you have to pay for. Great property. If you have status, expect a room overlooking the sea and the yachts that are parked at the pier. I’ll save that report for Flyertalk. We did a full day trip to Plitvice National Park. Oh my!! Upthread Troigr was mentioned. It’s a 60 minute ferry ride that will set you back ~$9.00 roundtrip. If ever there was a bargain… We spent 5 hours there due to the ferry schedules. It’s a find.
We flew home from Split. Our trip was 12 days, and do I wish we had another week to see the Istria region and Slovenia (mentioned above).
I posted photos on Facebook, and I never got such an emotional response from FB friends. They’re all planning a trip to Croatia. It’s so beautiful, and the people (if you know Leo) are friendly. They also speak English, unlike other European countries where you may get a hard time.
Have a question… ask away.
Dan
Make sure you buy a Vignette or face extortion - see Highway robbery in Slovenia - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers
Looking at Dubrovnik sobe’…old town or just outside Pile’ gate?
We also spend 3 nights on Korcula…your description sounds great. Looking to chill after 3 weeks of travel.
All the sobes (room rentals) in old town are all on top of the action. Depending how far outside the Pile gate your sobe is will make all the difference. I can’t imagine a 10 - 15 minute walk will be a big deal.
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In my opinion the old town (Dubrovnik) is worth a visit but I would not want to stay overnight inside the gates. Really overrun with tourists and cheesy stores. Lapad Bay to the north is much more tranquil and close enough to the old town for a visit. The ocean is the highlight in this area to me - absolutely beautiful and really fantastic to swim. The Mediterranean at its best.
Korcula is a different story - we did stay in old town and it was perfect. Very quiet and serene and great views of the boats sailing in and out. In fact I cannot think of a better place to sail a boat anywhere I have been in the world - just stunning beauty!
We stayed in Hvar for a couple nights and rented a car for 1 day to explore. Tough driving but a lot to see. Luckily we were on bikes as well so we saw a lot. Agree the food was good, not great and really loved the local red wines. Have fun!
This is a recommended agenda from The Moorings, we’d bareboat it.
Tom, and others, thoughts on these destinations?
DAY 1, MASLINICA
Agana to Maslinica – 7 nm. Your Agana itinerary begins on the day you arrive at the Moorings base. Once you check in, purchase provisions (if you haven’t elected to have us do it for you), and receive your pre-cruise chart briefing, board your yacht at 3:00 P.M. and get under way for a short sail to the southeast, where you’ll find the charming island of Solta off the bustling port of Split. Beyond are the much larger islands of Hvar, Vis, and Brac, each with a variety of harbors to explore. As you approach the western side of Solta, a series of picturesque islets spreads across the sea off the bow. The small harbor of Maslinica comes into view, lush with stands of olive trees (maslina means olive). Ashore are a number of taverns, cafés, and shops. You can also anchor in the adjacent bay of Sesula.
View day 1
DAY 2, VIS TOWN
Maslinica to Vis Town – 21 nm. Setting sail from Solta, plot a course nearly due south to the lovely island of Vis, a very popular tourist destination with beautiful beaches and lively nightlife in Vis Town. As you reach the northeastern end of Vis, you’ll see Stonica Bay, where you can relax and take a refreshing swim. Not far is historic Vis Town, established in 397 B.C. Ashore are ancient ruins, monasteries, churches, a Roman amphitheater, and even a palace to explore. Vis is a large, rugged island, but it’s also home to more than 500 varieties of herbs. In springtime, the air is fragrant with the rich scent of rosemary and sage.
View day 2
DAY 3, KOMIZA
Vis Town to Komiza – 11 nm. The third day of your Agana sailing itinerary takes you along the coast of Vis to the picturesque fishing village of Komiza, with a stop at Tiha cove for lunch and a swim. As you get under way again and continue sailing the Vis coast, the forests of pine extend to the shore in places. The distinct and pleasant scent of the pines carries to you on the warm breeze filling your sails. Inland are extensive vineyards, which produce excellent domestic wines, including the dry white Vugava and the red Plavac. Sailing among Croatia’s Dalmatian Islands is a bountiful treat for the senses.
View day 3
DAY 4, ST. CLEMENT ISLAND
Komiza to St. Clement Island – 23 nm. After leaving Komiza, sailing 5 nautical miles to the southwest brings you to the islet of Bisevo with its ten wondrous caves and rocky shores. Taking some time to enter the famous Blue Grotto (Cave) in a local tour boat is a sojourn into exquisite beauty. At midday, the angle is right to channel sunlight through an underwater opening in the cave wall that illuminates the interior in shimmering blue. You can swim inside the cave; it’s a very unique place to snorkel. Then set a course from Bisevo to the northeast and the beautiful Pakleni Islands just off Hvar Island. The largest of the group is St. Clement, with the splendid Palmizana Cove. There’s an excellent marina there, as well as a pristine white-sand beach. Vinogradace Cove is also scenic and inviting.
View day 4
DAY 5, HVAR ISLAND
St. Clement Island to Hvar Island – 22 nm. The next leg of your Agana sailing itinerary takes you to Hvar Island’s north shore. Just past Cape Pelegrin is beautiful Parja Cove, where you can stop for lunch at the beachfront restaurant. Continuing your sail eastward along the north coast you pass Vrukova Cove, another scenic place to linger. As the afternoon wanes, make your way to Vrboska Cove with its small port town and first-class marina. The village looks like a miniature Venice with stone buildings and a picturesque, multi-arched stone bridge across the narrow inlet at the head of the harbor. Pine forests crowd the steep hills on either side. Ashore are some excellent restaurants. An alternative choice would be to spend more time at St. Clement or at the other Pakleni Islands and take a water taxi to nearby Hvar Town, which is known for its historic sites and nightlife.
View day 5
DAY 6, BRAC ISLAND
Hvar Island to Brac Island – 16 nm. Just across Hvar Channel to the north is Brac Island, the third largest island in the Adriatic. More arid than some of the other isles of the Dalmatians, the rocky pine-studded mountains are obvious as you approach the island from the sea. The beauty is stark, the ambience seemingly remote, but Brac is actually quite populated and home to the two big resorts of Supetar and Bol, which hum with activity during the high season (July and August). As you close with the coast, set a course for the small fishing village of Milna, where you relax for the evening aboard or go ashore to explore.
View day 6
DAY 7, AGANA
Brac Island to Agana – 19 nm. The final day of your Agana sailing itinerary brings you northwest to Solta waters once again. If you have time and wish to stop for a refreshing swim, the beaches of Necujam or Stomorska are absolutely splendid. Otherwise, push on to complete the final miles of your adventure in the Dalmatian Islands. As the afternoon wind strengthens, the boat speeds across the shimmering blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, the sails full and drawing. Arriving back at the Moorings base at Marina Agana by 5:00 P.M., you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy dinner at the nearby restaurants, a fitting end to a leisurely foray into one of the best cruising grounds on Earth.
That looks like an absolute dream trip Brig! Like I said earlier in thread - this is a dreamland for a sailboat. Light winds, moderate temps, crystal clear water, beautiful scenery, unique harbors. Whats not to love?
The only island I am familiar with on the list is Hvar and will say Hvar town is the most glamorous of all of the towns we saw. The back side of island (towards the mainland) is where I would want to hang out. Really cool inlets/harbors with nice little restaurants/bars and very quiet.
Berserkerfest in the Dalmation islands on a sailboat?? Count me in!
If anybody is interested, we’ve finalized the itinerary:
Prague for 5 days, train to
Vienna for 3 days, train to
Ljublijana 1 night, rent car and drive to
Bled 2 nights,
Slovenian Alps 1 night maybe sleep near Kobarid
Rovinj 2 nights (day trip to Pula)
Plitvice Lakes 1 night, Drop off car in Split and Ferry to
Korcula 2 nights, shuttle bus to
Dubrovnik 3 nights, plane to
Rome 1 night and a quick floodlight tour before flying home the next day.
I know, I know…we crammed in a lot. Some of the choices had to do with availability of lodging and travel blackout dates. Pretty excited, however. It’ll be a good taste of some new places. Maybe whet our appetite for the future. I was really wringing my hands about missing out on Hungary, but the travel connections created a worse time crunch for us. Next time.
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Just back. A few thoughts off the top of my head…
Slovenia might be the most beautiful country I’ve ever visited. Ljubljana is amazing, the alps are beautiful, the people are gracious. Just need to see more. 5 days not enough. Bled was awesome, the Soča valley was a great historical counterpoint with some amazing scenery. A drive through the Julian alps was a great day spent and we just scratched the surface.
Croatia – too much crammed into the time meant som long travel days lost. Plitvice was beautiful but too many folks. Go in the offseason. Korcula was a special place. I’d have loved to stay longer. Rovinj was not my speed. Way way too crowded and holiday-ish. It’s lovely, but I couldn’t wait to move on. Pula day trip was great. Dubrovnik was really pretty and we took advantage of some needed downtime. It wasn’t cheap, and again crowded (but only during the day when the cruise ships unload daytrippers). Croatia offered Great crisp whites paired w fresh fish. I loved mike grgich’s pošip…super interesting wine.
This thread was very helpful, thanks for all of the posts!
Wife and I are thinking of visiting Croatia (pretty much Dan’s itinerary) for two weeks in late September / early October.
Weather wise, is it still hot enough to enjoy lazy beach days, etc or did I miss that window?
Brett