Brutal l'Arpege Review from Ryan Sutton

That was not our experience at all. We’ve been fortunate to eat at Arpege 3 times this year (April lunch, June and September dinners) and are going back in December with our daughter. Clearly the fact we have returned and are going back is evidence of that. Our only “regret” was that first lunch where we went with the vegetarian option, because we missed out on the whole roasted salmon in salt crust, and suckling pig which are on the “other” tasting menu. Half way through that meal though, we were so blown away I went up to the hostess station and made a reservation for next time.

To echo what Mark Kaplan says above, I was wearing a sportscoat and open collar the first time we went, because it was a warm day and we’d been walking around. As I sat down I realized it and said to the waiter, “Excuse me while I go and put on my tie”. He said, “If you prefer, but it’s not necessary at Arpege.” So we were immediately at ease, and ready to enjoy our meal. We have eaten close to 50 courses there now, and I would say there weren’t any among them that were not well above average. Most were just stunning, including the Sutton-criticized lobster with smoked potatoes, and maybe the best lamb I have ever had. The best dish? A tomato gazpacho with celery ice cream. Sounds weird, but it worked brilliantly. And Alain Passard is a delight. He may say it to all the girls, but my wife was swooning when he said to her “I don’t want to see your lovely face at any other restaurant in Paris!”

Look, for that price you really should not have an “off day” so I can’t speak to Sutton’s meal. It’s just not anything like ours.

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A June lunch was just as good as I would have expected.