Very interesting. I have a lot of notes of Loire wines, though, unfortunately, I cannot list US sources from them as I bought them either in Manila or in France. Still, on the off chance some can find them in the US (which is more than likely), I will post on a few that I found particularly interesting or good QPR (of which there are a lot in the Loire).
2005 Domaine Plante d’Or Cour Cheverny Cuvée Salamandre - (cepage: romorantin)…I had it with the cheese course. My previous notes describe this wine with flavors/scents of very lightly honeyed quince, citrus, some fresh herbs, limestone with a mouth-watering slight bitterness towards the rear.
I add now that it has a sweetish florality, cold-stoniness in its pleasantly rounded middle, and an intriguing, faintly waxy feel (vaguely reminiscent of a Rhône blanc marsanne/roussanne blend) on either side of my tongue just past mid-mouth. In addition, it displays praiseworthy complexity and balance in its structure, ripe/rounded fruit, minerality and bright acidity. J-Lab, again, liked it a lot and so did I. Very nice indeed.
2000 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon “Croix Boisée” - I remember having told Jérome a couple of years ago that, after spending many days tasting through the Loire, I did not like a single red I tried there (the whites, though, are excellent) - finding them aggressively herbaceous, tannic and lacking in body.
With an open mind, though, I sipped this before eating, and, sure enough, it was quite forwardly herbaceous in its dominant ripe blackcurrants, cherry flavors. Also present were typical notes of violets and, more in the nose, black pepper. Admittedly, it had better heft and confidence than any red Loire I had previously tried, but I found the middle a bit weak.
The wine’s magic, however, was in the pairing. With the deliciously earthy veal, the wine fleshed out and even expanded mid-mouth. The notes of violets rode a swelling blackcurrant river that paired hand-in-hand with the meat, and the black pepper found its place with the duck liver’s touch of richness. The wine’s transformation, when taken with the dish, was nothing short of astounding. Excellent pairing.
2005 Michel Redde Blanc Fumé de Pouilly “Les Bois de Saint-Andelain” - Great freshness, purity, minerality in this 100% sauvignon blanc from the Loire. For a 2005, it showed excellent balance - a testament to the winemaking skills of Michel Redde et Fils. Solid structure, good ripe fruit, but all buttressed, brightened and kept in check by its acidity.
Very confident wine. I liked the flintiness that shines through the fruit. Nuances of citrus, white peach and white flowers. This is a hefty sauv blanc with a decidedly rounder, fleshier texture than many Loire whites I am used to (the vintage expressing itself for sure). As I’ve previously stated, however, it was fresh and precisely balanced - the acidity giving the needed brightness and lift to the ripe vintage characteristics. Harmonious wine.
2006 Sancerre La Gravelière by Joseph Mellot - at Au Pied de Cochon, Paris with sizzling moules farci (under a mildly spicy, garlicy tomato sauce), os a moelle (roasted beef marrow bone) and a huge platter of assorted fresh oysters. Though I do not profess to have very extensive experience with Sancerre, I’ve tried several in Manila and immersed myself in the Loire for a week drinking a lot of it everyday, with virtually every meal except breakfast.
The subject Sancerre is the one that stuck most in my mind.
Offered as the only Sancerre on the restaurant’s current wine list, I ordered a 375ml for my wife and I just to try. We loved it so much with every dish, we ordered another at the first bottle’s halfway point.
Superbly clean, crisp, refreshing and palate-resuscitating, its alluringly flinty, minerally mild white grapefruit/mild gooseberry flavors cut the roasted marrow’s richness, as well as that of the moules’ sauce, and danced with the fresh oysters. There is the merest touch of grassiness to it - much unlike the usual more aggressive grassiness of NZ sauv blancs. The acidity is milder than many Sancerres I tried in my Loire immersion - and I think this is a good thing - made the wine much friendlier with the food.
I really, really like this wine, and it is inexpensive to boot. The restaurant’s price is a mere 20Euro for a 375ml and around 38Euro for a regular 750ml.
(nb: I’ve since found a supplier in Paris selling the 750mls for only 9-10Euros per bottle.)
2003 “Zero” por Bouvet-Ladubay Extra Brut, Saumur - recommended to go with my seafood dishes at La Licorne (an impeccable restaurant, a must in the area) 250-or-so yards from the Fontevraud Abbey on an extremely hot day. As its name states, this is a bone-dry white - bracingly crisp, clean pure white fruit, hints of grapefruit and pre-ripe pear, lots of white mineral, with generous acidity yet doesn’t come off as tart. Very light and bright on the palate. Alluring mild spiciness on the nose didn’t seem to translate onto the palate. As dry a white as I’ve ever had, you could cut your cheek on it. Superb on a hot day. Would be great as an appetizer as well. I would drink this young (nb: last tasted in July 2006).