So who, exactly, is buying the stuff? I have been wondering who can afford the prices if even the doctors and lawyers are complaining about not having enough money to purchase burgundy anymore. My own theory is that it is whoever is benefitting from the money being ‘generated’ by the 0% percent lending rates that is being funneled to the financial sector. It may be these people who have found an interest in burgundy and since they have the money that needs an outlet this has become one of them. Of course I have no way to prove this, but the extreme rise in prices over the last few years is really baffling, and there must be something else happening in the economy that is making these price rises possible. If the bubble that has been generated by the money creation by central banks pops, then maybe prices will go down. At least that is my hope.
Another effect of the escalation in prices…those wines you bought years ago when the prices were “more reasonable” (may not have seemed that way at the time, though) have become precious things not easily replaced. Although we may try to ignore this and pull them out as freely as before, it is difficult to ignore that those Rousseau Chambertins or Dujac Bonnes Mares are now several hundred dollars a bottle upon release, and perhaps even more for those mature bottles, and we may not be able to afford to replace them with any future vintages. Thus we become more hesitant to tap our finite and diminishing supply, and our expectations may rise to unreasonable levels when we do sample these rare treasures.
Actually the more I think about it the more I believe the price increases will falter sooner rather than later. There’s a legit argument to be made that top Grand Cru from top producers really are unique and have no peers in the wine world, and thus have no price ceiling. But take a short step down, to your average Clos Vougeots and virtually all PCs, and I can match that enjoyment in other parts of the world for at most the same price. (Note I said enjoyment, not experience; Burgundy the exact experience is not reproducible, see below.) I predict those who try to push the prices of, say, PC Burgs from vineyards of middling reputation past $100 a bottle from vintages whose only claim to fame is scarcity will quickly discover that demand is not as inelastic as they thought.
Unfortunately some people are cursed with a Burgundy-only palate, something I’ve never suffered from… if so, my sincere condolences, and hopefully somebody will develop a treatment for it someday.
I would say Rousseau and Roumier were not that pricey and quite easily available until vintage 2002. Since the birth of Burghound and Meadows was doing and report all those comparative tastings, I needed to gave up on them …because of strick allocation from the importer here !!
Now with Rudy in charge of the wines making there - please blame it on him
Pretty sensible and how things have worked in most ‘commodity’ markets. The first move is for everything to move higher. Then where the substitution effect can work, lots fall back in price. Question is, which wines have reasonable substitutes? Take all those highly rated St. Emilions that Parker reviewed. They all have similar flavor profiles, all are substitutes, none can drive higher in price. But when one becomes unique (1990 Beausejour Duffau, generally Angelus, etc), those can go higher. Same in Burgundy. '99 or '02 or '05 or '09 or '10 or '12 Rousseau ‘Chambertin Beze’ is unique and can go to any price. But '08 Meo-Camuzet ‘Echezeaux’ was offered this week for less than $100 and that’s what it took to clear the market (vintage iffy and lots of Echezeaux makers, not really grand cru, etc…)
Just another retailer stuck with '06, '07, '08 red Burgs, got to cut price to move them on. Same with '11 and soon to be '13. '05, '09, '10, '12 fly out the door at almost any price, the rest stick behind.