The first time I visited Roulot, in 1988, Frank Grux was in charge. He wouldn’t sell us a bottle of either 1er cru, though all we wanted of the glorious '86 “lieux dits”.
It wasn’t until Jean Marc was around, in 2001, that I was able to buy some Perrieres. Luckily a friend with me thought it was too high-priced and sold me his. I got some on a later visit…but…they treat it like a holy grail there, for sure. They have very very little.
By the same token, the Robert Ampeau estate makes people buy two reds for every white they’ll sell. Luckily, i really liked their Volnay…or I’d never own any whites.
I’ve long thought those Roulot lieux dits were plenty good for my needs and tastes, so it has never bothered me to have so few Perrieres. In fact, the Perrieres is waiting for the “right moment” that will doubtlessly disappoint, as a result. Nice trophies, but…for "good drinkin’…I’ll take Luchets/Meix Chevaux/Mon Plaisir any day…without complaint.
Seriously, so thankful for your effort, Don, in both putting the tasting together and typing up your marvelously comprehensive notes. I want to respond so that I’ll have this thread “bookmarked”.
I am surprised indeed at the lukewarm showing of the 07 Chablis, most I’ve had from that year have been excellent. Perhaps even more surprised that drinks like Raveneau and Dauvissat seemed so “accessible” at what I’d term a very early stage.
Seems the CCs underwhelmed a bit too. Curiously, a good friend of mine who loves Burgs, he has stated more than once that PYCM and Boillot, he prefers the lower-level wines to the CCs and Montrachets and the like.
Bouchard really does seem to understand Meursault—I’ve had little enough of their Perrieres but have loved the Genevrieres they do in almost every year.
I had the 07 Girardin CC about 4 years ago, thought it was fantastic. Olivier Leflaive’s, drunk this year, was also super stuff.
I know that Jean-Marc Roulot has a definite interest in obtaining some vines in Genevrieres. We discussed it over dinner a couple of years ago. At that time he was very close to obtaining some well-placed vines in Genevrieres, but the deal fell apart ultimately as I believe the other domaine changed their mind about selling.
One thing that I always thought would make sense is for some of the domaines who have good vines in Perrieres to offer a metayage arrangement to Jean-Marc. Roulot’s Meursault Perrieres sells ex domaine for as much as 4.7 times the price that some of the other producers are able to obtain for their MP. By leasing their MP vineyards to Jean-Marc and taking the lessor’s share of the production (usually one-third to one-half of the production, depending in part on who tends the vines), either in kind or in cash, those producers would still be far ahead economically and Jean-Marc would have more MP to produce and sell.
Thanks for the info Don - a Genevrieres from Roulot would be quite something I imagine! If vineyards were allocated “efficiently” there would no doubt be substantially more great wine floating about, but once you add byzantine laws and human nature you get… well… you get Matrot Perrieres for starters.
Ch@rlie - Speaking of Genevrieres, to me that has been Boillot’s “best value” in many vintages - unfortunately we have only one (expensive) source for Boillot in NZ so the CC is firmly >$200. I’ve also yet to have a premoxed 1er cru from Boillot, but have had several sad GC bottles, including CCs et al.
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