I noticed that, after a long absence, the Nebbiolo wines of Vallana are again available at retail. During the 70’s I enjoyed many bottles (at a very modest cost) of Campi Raudi, Montalbano, and Traversagna from the 60’s and early 70’s. Has anyone tasted the 2000 Gattinara and 2008 Spanna Novaresi which are currently offered at very attractive prices?
The Novaresi is KILLER for the money, and the Boca is well made, but still a little young. Not had the Gattinara.
Don’t expect the same wines though. It is widely believed that they used to add Aglianico from the south back in the day. They cannot do that now.
Whether or not they added aglianico then, it seems almost impossible to imagine that anything being made today can taste anything like the oldies from this producer. I’d love to be wrong but it seems inconceivable.
Yep - nothing better than Roseanne Rosannadanna’s nana’s Vallana Spanna !
I tried a 2008 Spanna Novaresi the other night and it doesn’t seem that far off from these wines (I’m thinking 1978 which is the vintage I had the most of 25 or so years ago) - at least from memory. It is, I think, way too young and simple at this point, but the complexity seems to just below the surface.
A 2001 Gattinara was delicious, but different to the old stuff
Timely post. Attending my wine group’s annual truffle dinner this Sunday. A great night of big Italian reds with 5 or 6 home cooked courses with truffles that we chip in to purchase. I’m bringing as a throw in 2nd bottle my last Vallana Spanna, an 82, that I purchased 25+ years ago on the suggestion of Lou Ioucci of Goldstar Liquors in Queens. Last drank an 87 in 2006 and it performed beautifully. Meeting Lou was a treat, a great retailer, who passed away shortly thereafter. Bought a couple of cases of Italian wines that he suggested which was my first venture beyond Bordeaux in my early wine discovery years. Never forgot what he told me the first time we met and walked the shop together, “I can always tell the customers from PA, they love to fondle the bottles.” Will report back on this bottle. My primary bottle for the event, an 01 Giacosa Santo Stephano Barbaresco.
Was that the 2000 rather than 2001? On Wine-Searcher, I see 1999, 2000, and 2004 available.
I didn’t keep the bottle but according to memory and invoice, it was 2001.
Recently purchased and allowed to rest a few days before opening. Decanted 2 hours with minimal sediment. Showing a bright ruby red color with medium density. Restrained primary aromas of red cherries and just a hint of earthiness. Extraordinarily smooth feel in the mouth, medium weight, and reticent flavors that mirror the aromatics. While the fruit is a little reticent, the alcohol subdued at 12.5%, and well masked grape tannins, there is a firm acidity that suggests a good future here. This wine has a delicate character that in some ways, reminds me of a traditional young burgundy.
Half the bottle was reserved to a 375 ml after decanting, pumped and refrigerated to try again in a day or two
Day 3- Removed from the refrigerator 4 hours before and reopened just before serving. At first, this seemed to have lost something and came off a little diffuse. However, by the end, it seemed to have recovered and come together again. While this is clearly outclassed now by the Gattinara, it has the structure and stuffing to evolve into a very special wine. 90 points on day one and 89 on day 3. Exceptional value at around $14.
Vallana Gattinara 2000 (included to provide a comparison point)
Decanted and allowed to breathe for 1.5 hours, leaving a moderate amount of fine sediment. This was a little lighter in color than the Spanna with a brick red core and very tight on the nose when first decanted. Half the bottle was reserved to a 375 ml after decanting, pumped and refrigerated to try again the next day.
This really started to open up and blossom at the 2 hr mark. It is an extraordinarily elegant (rather than dramatic) expression of Nebbiolo. Not an overwhelmingly powerful wine either on the nose or palette, but totally beguiling, generous, and charming. The wine is well into its peak drinking window now but is in no danger of going over the edge anytime soon. The tannins are resolved and the acidity is perfectly in balance. The play of ripe plums, dried black cherry, roses, leather, a faint suggestion of creosote, truffle oil, and earthiness against a silky smooth mouth feel is sublime. Moderate length with a very clean finish that trails off softly. The wine was still gaining in depth and intensity when we finished it.
Day 2- From the half bottle reserved out the night before. Removed from the refrigerator 4 hours before serving.
This picked up right where we left it the night before without missing a beat. In fact, it seemed even more open and inviting. The sensual aromas and flavors do not leap out at you, but approach quietly and wrap themselves around your senses. The only thing that keeps me from rating it even higher is the length of the finish. But that is easily remedied by just taking another sip of this seductive wine. An amazing QPR at under $25. 93 points