A big thanks to Claus for gathering these rare wines. Given the age of them the success rate of the content of these bottles was perfectly good and the success rate of the bottle/label designs was 100 %.
The kitchen wines were served blind and took me a bit by surprise.
JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2002 was quite full and rounded not only for 2002, but especially for JJ Prüm. I was thinking whether it was Spätlese or a light Auslese. That aside it’s a very good, clean Riesling that retains a good balance. Some green, herbal influences lent this wine considerable complexity. Given the drinking experience on the night I would advise happy owners of this bottling to keep further bottles for a while for the wine to get a touch slimmer with less sensation of sweetness.
Julian Haart Schubertslay Spätlese 2015 was clearly a much younger wine and the exotic fruit paired with a hefty acidity made 2015 an obvious choice. For Julian Haart as I know him this is quite ripe in the fruit / Oechsle department and very classic Julian Haart in the acidity department. I’m probably wrong about the Oechsle, though. Terrific intensity, complexity and length. I have the Kabinett in my cellar. Time will tell if I made the right decision but this Spätlese is terribly good – and rare.
Did I mention they were both Rieslings? - of course they were.
Next up were 2 x Vouette & Sorbée Champagnes, served non-blind like all but one of the remaining wines.
The Texture Brut Nature (deg. 28/1-15) did not convince me that Pinot Blanc is not great for Champagne. Lovely stuff with precision and enough anonymity in the fruit for the minerals to take centre stage. Tight with green apples (but not underripe). Like all good wines, you could drink more of this, but we had more work to do. Very good stuff.
The Saignée de Sorbée Extra Brut (deg 12/1-10 from 2006 vintage) had a rusty red appearance. We were joking with it being Campari and the aromatics were even more strange with orange/Aperol notes, the Nestlé peach yoghurt you get in Southern Europe (very sweet, no acidity and over-perfumed/aromatized) and heavy evening perfume. Not focused – a confused wine that might just be tired - after all, it was a quite old disgorgement. Not for me.
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schlossböckelheim Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 1983 (ap 34/84). A great name and a majestic Spätlese that was served with the Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Spätlese 1997. This ’83 was so great that the Dönnhoff seemed simple and lacking tension. Still sweet but with perfect acidity and real tension between all elements. Diluted lime cordial intermixed with herbal notes and slate. Not a baroque wine in any way – very delicate and with optimal drinkability. One of the really greats and the second-best Riesling from 1983 for me ever.
“Cool wines, but I hate those old German labels; they look so Third Reich. Like something the Führer would drink.”
I love these old labels - I think they amazing. It’s gothic lettering, has been so for centuries and has nothing whatsoever to do with Third Reich. The stylized eagle - like the swastika - is also not a Nazi invention.
It was hard to say a lot of nice things about the Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 1997 (ap 05/98) because it was completely overshadowed by a piece of history. A bit ironic as Dönnhoff has received much praise from particularly Hermannshöhle; If I’m not mistaken a considerable part of his Hermannshöhle holdings originate from this very state domain! Well, aromatically unexpressive, quite flat and lacking acidity. Not corked, but just very muted.
Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 1988 (ap 1/89) was sadly corked.
Jos. Christoffel Jr. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** 1998 (ap 11/89) was served alongside the von Hövel and this performed very well in the high yield – low Oechsle style that is now called ‘classic’. A lovely light, pure floral wine with lemon curd and the cream notes that come along with perfect maturity. In a very good spot now.
On to the reds:
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Speciale 1964 was delightful with sweet pipe tobacco notes, volatility present but in check. A good, drinkable wine.
Ceretto Barbaresco Vigneto Martinenga 1971 was corked. It seemed to have a lot of stuffing underneath, so a shame.
Marchesi di Barolo 1964 was madeirized. Only for hardcore Oloroso-fans 
The label stated ’Gradi 13’ – I love it!
Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco 1949. Now this was much better. Sound tobacco notes, dried porcini and a lot of complexity. Developed in the glass with layers of leather.
Franco-Fiorina Barolo Riserva 1973. Oyster sauce, sour chimney and a somber, black fruit. After 43 years of ageing I demand sexiness and complexity, but this had neither. A bit of bicycle tube crept in after a while in the glass. A pity – the label is beautiful.
Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 1964. I have commercial interest in this winery, so unfortunately I can’t tell you how much I liked it, but very true to Verduno with strawberries and rosy perfume. This was the only of the old Nebbioli to have a fruit core.
Kopke Colheita Port 1966 (bottled in 2016) was true to form. I also have commercial interest here, so no further praise.
Bischöfliches Priesterseminar Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese 1994 (ap 24/95) I think both I and the wine were a bit tired. There are superb 94 wines out there with precise fruit and acidity, but unfortunately this particular bottle underperformed vis-à-vis my hopes.
A big thanks to Claus for his generosity.
6 people and 3 handfuls of wine was plenty – I slept well and was not at all cold on my ½ hour bike trip home.
oh-oh! I forgot about the Burgundies: they were as Claus describes them ![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers")
/Ulrich
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Corked again![[welldone.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/f/fc9709a841aa9379fd892a9cf0b535b05f473b86.gif "[welldone.gif]"){kind=small}