Copenhagen and Denmark were great. The weather in late May was beautiful, the people incredibly friendly, the culture laid back. The only downside is how cash flows through your hands like water…(and do use cash as nearly everywhere seemed to charge from 2.5% to 5% if you wanted to pay by credit card).
Restaurants we ended up eating at in Copenhagen were Formel B (French-influenced technique with butter-heavy saucing with Danish ingredients like local beef, ramsons, and various local fish), Relae (less of a technical kitchen but some really good and creative ingredient combinations such as steamed maitake mushrooms served with burnt green onions pureed with wine into a sauce), and Restaurant Melee (styled after a French bistro…I had tartare and a spring lamb stewed in its own stock with milk, dill, little sweet shrimp, and young potatoes…simple but excellent). And as a respite from multi-course meals some good Turkish kebabs at Konya Kebab in the Vesterbro area.
Our first full day there we took the train to Helsingor and toured Kronborg Castle, a very impressive building and military fortification on the Oresund. On the way back to Copenhagen we stopped in Humlebaek and the Louisiana Museum. The museum was stunningly beautiful and had interesting exhibits. It was open until 10PM and the restaurant seemed to have a pretty nice buffet, so hanging out there eating and drinking could make a pretty cool night.
Copenhagen is a city made for walking or biking. We walked a ton through many of the neighborhoods, enjoying the sights, popping into cool bars for a beer - my favorite areas were Vesterbro and Norrebro. Rosenborg Palace, housing the Danish Crown Jewels, was a cool sight, and it’s nearby to a relatively impressive botanical garden which featured the best collection of rhododendrons I’ve seen. Christiana didn’t quite live up to my expectations and it seemed pretty sleazy and crowded with the hash/pot vendors and patrons. Hitting up the design store Illum Bolighus (wish I could take everything home!) on the Strøget was fun. The Round Tower, also on the Strøget, was also worth the time and money for a great view over the city from the top.
Our last full day in Denmark we rented a car and drove a couple hours south to Moens Klint, which are chalk cliffs on the Baltic. Sheer natural beauty. The cliffs are at the eastern end of the island of Moen, a rural and peaceful place. We stopped in Stege and had way too many smørrebrød and a couple good beers at their local micro-brewery Bryghuset Møn. Also hiked a short nature trail over private grazing land to see some wild orchids and get a view over the island to the Baltic.
Heading back north to get closer to Kastrup we spent the night in Køge, a small, pretty, well-preserved market town with many buildings from the fifteen- and sixteen-hundreds. I even found the one store with good prices in Denmark, a clothing store liquidating their inventory in order to change their concept…picked up a couple Bruuns Bazaar items at half-off!
Anyway, had a great time in Denmark and appreciate everyone’s input!