Planning a fall trip to the SW - have been to Bordeaux, Rocamadour, and Eugenie-les-Bains, but haven’t explored the Perigord and Gascony to a greater extent. It looks like it takes a long time to get around, so struggling with the itinerary. For those of you that have been there, any pros/cons of this itinerary:
Three days: Dordogne - based somewhere near Sarlat
Two days: Gascony
Two days: San Sebastian
Two days: Bordeaux
Thoughts?
March 15 NY Times had a great article on dining in Gascony. Might want to make you alter the the first few days of your trip. I liked staying in St. Emillion better than Bordeaux city. Also enjoyed exploring Basque region outside St. Sebastian. Nice day trips returning to St. Sebastian to dine.
Sarlat makes a great base. It’s close to the cave sites, Montbazillac (sp?), and Cahors. Sorry to see that Albi isn’t on the list.
Best part of France, IMHO. Les Eyzies de Tayac is very historic. Close to Sarlat, home of the Cro-Magnon man discovery, cave paintings and some great restaurants. Try and get there for a day.
Many plus beaux villages to visit if Sarlat is your base - La Roque Gageac, Domme, Colognes la Rouge, Rocamadour, Castlenaud, Beynac.
I agree with the comments of others above. Two weeks (we spent three) is a better introduction than a few days. The wines may not be great, but the food and tourism are. FYI, it takes a long time driving from here to there in the Lot and former Périgord (now Dordogne) valleys and there aren’t any shortcuts or TGV trains. Don’t overlook the caves, under and above ground rivers, villages, farms, and chateaux (many of which have accommodation and very good food). There are excellent Chateau & Relais properties, which also serve great food in the area. Go slow.
Thanks everyone. I wish we had more time, but at this point shorter trips are de rigeur. Maybe when we retire. 
Finally have some things booked - looked at the Relais and Chateaux (which we typically love) but found a very nice B&B on the river (Par la Rivière http://www.parlariviere.com/en/) that is conveniently located to Beynac, La Roque Gageac, Domme, Castelnaud, etc. we’ve previously stayed at Chateau Mercues, and may return there for lunch on the terrace. Not staying in Bordeaux city, but at chateau in Pessac and Saint Emilion since I couldn’t pick just one. Now looking for winery visits, not Bordeaux/Sauternes, but further south. Stopping in Monbazillac for a tasting at Tirecul-la-Graviere.
Any suggestions/experience tasting further south near Cahors or Madiran - or for Armagnac tastings? And any recommendations for dining in the Dordogne?
We had two excellent dinners back in May at a place a bit south of Monbazillac called La Tour des Vents.
The July 1 WSJ (D3) has a feature on what to do in Bordeaux–might be worth a look for you.
Thanks Randall!
Monbazillac’s cathedral and monastery are quite special. The church was begun in the Romanesque style, then completed in baroque, but it is painted inside in bright yellow Islamic geometrical patterns from the time when the Moors invaded that part of France. It also has exquisite carved gothic columns and figures on the portico. I had the good fortune to spend a half day there while waiting for an oil change. Definitely worth a stop!
Within the city of Bordeaux, the Yndō Hotel is very special.
A place that’s definitely worth a visit in the Bergerac area is the village of Issigeac–lots of charming old medieval buildings and they have an excellent market on Sundays.
John any recs for lunch in Monbazillac? Thanks!
Sorry, it’s been almost 20 years since that trip. I don’t remember where we ate.
Thanks!
one of the best lunches we have every experienced was in Tremolat-under the vines outdoors.
Bump.
We’re looking at spending about ten days in April between Spanish Basque country and Bordeaux/Dordogne area. We spent a few days a number of years ago visiting Sarlat and Les Eyzies, but would like to delve into the region away from those attractions a bit. Any recommendations on how to divide up our time and where to stay. TIA!
Detours in France has a Dordogne trip. 5-6 days I think……just finished a bike trip in the Côte and it was incredible, not sure if you want to be active though
Rick, here is our ten-day itinerary (including hotels) in the Lot and Dordogne valleys from some years ago. I wouldn’t mind reprising the entire itinerary again.
Oct 13 – 15 Albi, La Réserve
Oct 15 – 17 Mercuès, Château de Mercuès
Oct 17 – 19 Souillac, Château de la Treyne
Oct 19 – 21 Tremolat, Le Vieux Logis
Oct 21 – 23 Brantôme, Moulin de l’Abbaye