ISO suggestion for wine bars, wine stores and restaurants.
Il cavatappi was highly recommended but we couldn’t get in on our free nights, it’s the highest rated in Varenna. It’s very popular, and small, so reservations are required.
Il cavatappi - cute, small, family owned
another highly regarded restaurant, great views, was part of our hotel. Ristorante La Vista.
On the more casual side, right on the water, is Café Varenna. Good food and great atmosphere
Here’s a list of all the restaurants in TripAdvisor.
Never really had a bad meal in the entire country, the food in Italy doesn’t suck. LOL
We’ve stayed at the Royal Victoria (rooms that opened up the the lake) a couple of times and thought very highly of it. Unfortunately, our last stay was a decade ago, so not that current
Long ago stayed and ate at Hotel Olivedo. Absolutely loved it. That part of Italy is really magical. Have a great trip
Stayed a few times on the company tab at Villa d’Este. Not too shabby 
The downside is I didn’t get to see too much around the lake
I enjoyed La Costa - GALBUSERA NERA - Ristorante e Cantina
Thanks, all, for the responses. All noted.
So far, we made a reservation at Il Cavatappi. Looking to do the same with some of the other recommendations.
Enoteca Cava Turacciolo in Bellagio has good cheeses and charcuterie. Enjoyed some Bellavista and Produttori Moccagatta by the glass and bought bottles of Emidio Pepe Montepulciano and Montevertine to go, both ~30 €/bottle.
I need to go back and confirm whether it is the same place mentioned above but there was an absolute killer spot in Bellagio that we loved. One of my all time travel highlights. Will see if I can find the name to confirm.
Edit. It is the place mentioned above. Amazing wine selection, cheese, salumi, etc. Must go if in Bellagio.
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I was waiting for a recommendation just like this one. Duly noted. Thanks!
look for local buckwheat pasta dishes. sometimes called Pizzoccheri.
Enjoying excellent 60s and 70s weather this week around the lake.
Had delicious local region cooking at Il Cavatappi (Varenna), Hotel Olivedo (Varenna), Ristorante Sociale (Como) and a happy winegeek’s lunch of mixed salumi and a delicious bowl of Pizzoccheri pasta with glasses of local Valtellina whites and a bottle of 2001 Montevertine at Cava Turacciolo (Bellagio). Doggie-bagged unfinished bottle and drank at ferry on the way back to hotel.
Jealous. Sounds great
really glad you got to try the Pizzoccheri. For those that don’t know it’s 80% buckwheat and takes a strong ox to roll out–a great regional specialty.
A very delicious and relaxing lunch at a fisherman-owned restaurant at Bellagio’s residential neighborhood today. Ristorante Silvio is a must for fresh fish lovers.
Great stuff, Ramon.
You seem to have figured it out!
Silvio is awesome. Fine call
Nice!
I’m sorry I didn’t see this thread until now (have been in a lengthy trial, with horse blinders on) but for others considering Lake Como/Varenna in the future, I will add:
Dining
- Il Cavatappi would have been one of my top two dining recommendations. It’s a gem. If you don’t try the spaghetti with dried lake fish–and I wouldn’t have, but for the enthusiastic recommendation of a local merchant–you will miss quite a culinary experience.
- The other in my top two is Osteria Quattro Pass. Welcoming upscale atmosphere without upscale prices; local seafood (grilled lake perch and octopus carpaccio were outstanding); attentive service; and a broad and deep regional winelist (particularly Robert Parker’s favorite(not!), Valtellina. It’s the only place we went twice in a week, something we seldom do. Would have gone twice to Cavatappi, as well, but didn’t discover it until our last day.
- Other very worthy dining choices are Vecchia Varenna and and La Vista.
- If you visit Como for touring or shopping, take the funicular railroad up to Brunate, both for the spectacular views and lunch at Locando del Dolce Basicilico.
General Comments
- I have only stayed in Varenna, but have visited almost every town around the lake. Varenna is the most charming to me. You might prefer the hustle and bustle (read “crowds of tourists”) of Bellagio, or the cosmopolitan feel of Como. But I prefer to partake of those on my own terms, then retreat to the relative tranquility and quaintness of Varenna.
- I cannot recommend the Hotel du Lac too highly. Right on the lakefront adjacent to the medieval part of Varenna, this small (16 rooms) hotel is housed in a charming “modern” building (built 1823) with all the modern conveniences. Run by a mother and daughter who speak excellent English, it is friendly and accommodating in every way (arranging car service from Malpense; making dining recommendations and reservations; even giving tutorials on the (confusing til you get the hang of it) ferry schedule.
Enjoy!
You pretty much described Varenna as I would - a small, quiet, beautiful town at the northern part of the lake, that serves as a getaway from the busy ones at Bellagio or Como, or after a hectic day of lake-town hopping or sightseeing. We stayed for 3 nights at a hotel called Hotel Olivedo, right in front of the to the town pier. We loved it. Family run, clean, basic amenities and antiques furniture and décor all around. The restaurant’s pretty good, too. She was torn between du Lac (which we walked by a few times) and Olivedo, but I recall her saying that there were no availabilities for our dates at du Lac.
We wanted to get a good feel for the towns around the lake, so for our first 3 nights, we stayed at Como, I guess in spite of its size, it is the cosmopolitan city by the lake. It is busy, full of tourists and the place to do your shopping if you need to. We enjoyed this town, too. I’d recommend Hotel Palace for the modern amenities and good walking proximity to everywhere.