Hi
I’m looking to plan a 1 day trip to Reims in early February 2017 for a friend of mine. He will not be renting a car and so the preference is for places that are within a reasonable taxi drive from Reims station. He’d be taking the TGV from Paris in the morning and returning in the evening. Some of my thoughts are the following but I’d greatly appreciate alternative recommendations:
An RM (grower/producer)
some ideas: Vilmart, Bereche, Paul Dethune (a little far – 30 minutes). Would really appreciate other ideas.
Large House
Lanson, Ruinart, Krug (would be nice, but realize that it’s difficult to get into). Would really appreciate other ideas.
I generally agree with Neal, although if your friend has never been to any caves in Champagne, Ruinart is a much higher priority than going to Caves du Forum.
Agree with the above - the Ruinart visit is awesome and very convenient. And not hard to get into.
We also had very enjoyable visits at Vilmart and Philipponnat (hiking the Clos de Goisses is particularly unique and awesome) among others, but in just a day I’d probably do the caves at Ruinart plus a good lunch and the cathedral.
We did a spur-of-the-moment day trip from Paris 3 years ago. Took the 35 minute TGV from Gare de l’Est. A quick tour of the Cathedral, a 15 minute taxi ride for a 2-hour visit to Taittinger that was arranged for us on the spot by the Visitor center (at the side of the Cathedral), back to the city center for lunch, a quick visit at Caves du Forum for some hard to find bottles from Overnoy. We were back in Paris for our early dinner at La Regalade.
Good suggestions so far but a couple of comments are necessary.
You don’t say if the friend is a wine geek and/or interested in “the hunt” and able or interested in transporting bottles back to the US. If the answer is no to any of those, I would recommend against Caves du Forum. It’s great for people on this board but is not for everyone (for example, my wife, who is knowledgeable about and interested in wine does not enjoy but puts up with me in places like that).
Based on something I saw when in the area last May, if I’m not mistaken Ruinart is closed this winter (and may be every winter for all I know). Check before planning around that visit. Taittinger is an easy and decent visit, and Pommery is just across the street if going to Les Crayeres.
As to Les Crayeres, while I’ve had fabulous meals there, based on recent visits, I’d give the edge to L’Assiette Champenoise. Your friend should be warned about the cost of either, though.
Vilmart is a very nice place to visit but a little bit of a ride out of town. Worth it, though. Plan a return cab in advance if possible (we always have a car, so I’m not sure how one does that).
So my recommendation would be:
Cathedral (an absolute must)
Vilmart
Lunch at L’Assiette Champenoise
Taittinger
Our experience at Vilmart was very disappointing. Apparently, the person who usually hosts visitors was out, but we got a 5 minute “here’s our barrel room with some barrels” tour, followed by some glasses plunked on a tasting table followed by some drive by pours. I was fairly annoyed as the logistics of a family trip really only allowed for a visit to one Champagne house and that was it. It sounds like Ruinart is more of a sure thing.
I would echo others’ comments about the Cathedral and a lunch at Les Crayeres.
Took the first train in/last train out from Paris <-> Reims.
Went with a bunch of wine noobs.
Ruinart was unavailable a month out. Trip was kind of last minute. Try to secure now if possible.
Visited some big houses - VC, Pommery, and Mumm. None of them stood out as amazing, but my friends enjoyed them. Was also able to walk from Reims to each subsequent winery (it was a nice day).
Ate a fantastic lunch at Les Crayeres (+1 for Neal’s suggestion). Up the road from VC.
Saw the cathedral when it first opened. No one else in there. Was in and out in 20 minutes.
Stopped by a cute shop before returning to Paris for dinner. L’épicerie Au Bon Manger. Check it out!
Uber was not available in Reims when we visited. Although it was great in Paris.
I would actually recommend visiting Epernay instead. I think it’s easier walking around and there’s a combination of big champagne houses plus a short taxi ride to some top mid size houses plus some
Top grower houses. It also has the best Champagne shop in the world, “Le 520”. The prices are the best in the world. The guy that runs the shop is also head of the growers association. All the bottles are stored in underground cellar and the ones on display are just display bottles.
