The restaurant deserves everyone’s attention.
My first impression before arriving was “why’s the wine list so young?!?!” My parting thought was “because there is a lot of distinct tastes which would murder old wine”.
They’ve got an older Hermitage (Chapelle 97) on Cornavin as well as a few interesting choices by the bottle but all of them would be at wits end with the food. One fish dish with pickled cabbage and pork foam would pair perfectly with that Hermitage. Otherwise, The list is ideal for the food.
Now, the food. Wow. Plenty of fermented and pickled sides. Sublimely cooked proteins. Perfect proportions. Prices that weren’t too intemidataing. And an avalanche of reasons to give the restaurant a star or two.
I had a Maison de Romane Fixin Le Clos 2013 which was a treat. Generous on the fruit but upright and tight on the tannin. It only stumbled on the fish course where a little bit of smoke, meat, spice and astringency of aged Hermitage would have hit it out of the park.
The kitchen turned out dishes which turned my head with each plate. A seven course menu at £86 was a gift.
It’s east London and a bit of a hike from tourist central but, my goodness, it merritted every stop on the tube.