Venice (Italy) help for a first timer

Hi everyone: I have done a bit of research and most of the Venice info is a bit dated. I would love some hotel and restaurant ideas that are more current. We are not going till next Fall so I have some time. We will be in a couple of other areas as well but would like to concentrate on Venice info as I have never been there.

Thanks! [berserker.gif]

Cheers!
Marshall champagne.gif

Sorry I can’t help with more current info, Marshall, but you are going to love Venice in the fall. It is unique, and has to be taken on its own terms, but there really is nothing like getting lost in the back alleys and canals and then turning the corner onto a lagoon vista or the Grand Canal or St Marks. The light is gorgeous, the architecture is beautiful, and the opportunity to see it all without a single car or motorbike assaulting your senses is unlike anything else, anywhere else.

Biennale 2017.

Thanks Neal…lovely descriptions.


Mark; We have plenty of time to talk.


Cheers!
Marshall [cheers.gif]

Stay in an an apartment. We were on a canal behind the Fenice Theater, a 5 min walk to San Marcos. We walked everywhere from there, often aimlessly, finding hidden squares and cafes. Use Airbnb or something like that. Having a kitchen and a bedroom, as well as living space, is so much nicer.

I’ll PM you some restaurant choices.

Why don’t you just post them here?

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Too long since we’ve been there for specifics. But it is a magical place! Do watch out for scams, they’ve been fleecing tourists for centuries. If you’re stuck for a good place to eat, try to follow the French tourists

Well said! Ill add that its even more magical after dark. Biggest mistake is spending much time around St Marks before 6PM. Meandering the small back alleys is the best.

we stayed at al ponte antico - I really liked it. Old palace converted into a boutique hotel. Jeffrey steingarten has a great chapter on venice and its cuisine in one of his books. [thumbs-up.gif]

Venice is one of the great cities of the world, and unique in that it is built entirely on water. Having visited some two dozen times when I lived in Rome and another dozen times since, it is a place that is dear to me. Autumn is a good time to visit, and although there are still crowds at that time, it is not nearly as chaotic as it is in late spring, summer, and early autumn. My preference has always been to visit from late November to early March, a time when the locals reclaim their city and imbue it with a spirit that is distinctly Venetian.

The city itself is divided into six sestieri or districts. They are San Marco, San Polo, Santa Croce, Castello, Cannaregio, and Dorsoduro. San Marco is where the famed Piazza San Marco is located, along with the Basilica di San Marco and the Campanile. As a first time visitor, Marshall, you should take in these sights. Cannaregio is the most densely populated of the sestieri, but is also where the Jewish Ghetto is located. Historically, this is where the Jews were segregated from the rest of the population. Castello is the largest of the sestieri, and composed of such a maze of back streets and canals that you will be forever lost once there. San Polo is where the famous Rialto Bridge is, and it is this bridge that connects San Polo to San Marco. Santa Croce is the first sestiere one enters from mainland Italy via the Ponte della Liberta. As such, it is the only sestiere where one sees cars. Dorsoduro is the southernmost of the sestieri, and my favorite. I have never stayed anywhere but here, in large part because the tourists clear out by late afternoon and the district returns to the serenity it is known for. Here, one is in the midst of the Venice of families and students. The Dorsoduro is home to most of the great museums of Venice. The Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Palazzo Grassi, among others, are located here.

As for hotels, I can suggest only the ones I have stayed in in Dorsoduro. One thing to keep in mind is that most visitors stay in the San Marco and Rialto areas because of their proximity to the sights. As such, you’ll pay a premium, and if you’re not careful, a dear premium for location. The irony is that Venice is eminently walkable, and you can explore the entire city on foot. It never took me more than 15-20 minutes to walk leisurely from the Dorsoduro to say, San Marco Square. Bottom line, no need to stay in San Marco or the Rialto because you can walk everywhere.

The hotels are rated from 0 stars to 5 stars. When I first started coming to Venice from Rome, my hotel of choice was the 2 star Hotel Agli Alboretti (it has since been elevated to 3 stars). The rooms are very clean and well kept, and that it is located in the Dorsoduro, very quiet. The proprietress of the hotel was also the sommelier of the Ristorante Agli Alboretti, which is attached to the hotel. I had some of the greatest wine experiences of my life here, but that is, alas, another story for another time. I believe the restaurant is presently under new ownership.

I also stayed at the Pensione Accademia a few times. It is housed in a building that was the former home of the Russian Consulate. The Pensione is very popular among Americans and the British, and it used to be that booking a room here was difficult because repeat customers always reserved a year in advance. What distinguishes the Pensione is that the guests tend to be well-travelled. In the evenings, many guests would convene in the large sitting room and trade stories and tips about Venice.

My hotel of choice in the Dorsoduro is the 4 star Ca’ Pisani, a design hotel that is absolutely gorgeous. The service is wonderful and the spread they put out at breakfast can hold you until dinner. My brother and his family stayed here last December, and he will return. If you like high tech gadgetry in your room, this hotel has it. Another design hotel to consider is the 4 star Charming House DD724. I stayed here only once, and while we enjoyed it very much, there were service issues then that have hopefully been ironed out. This hotel is located right next to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

As for restaurants, Osteria alle Testiere is a seafood only restaurant located in Castello that deserves its reputation for impeccable cuisine. The chef has a creative bent, and at times lightly flavors some of his seafood dishes with ginger and cinnamon, spices that one normally does not associate with Italian cooking. That is, however, until one realizes that Venice was once a maritime power, and brought in goods and spices from the Middle East and Asia. The front of the house is run by a fellow named Luca, who speaks at least 5 languages and is a sommelier. Ask him for recs and he’ll always come up with a good bottle for you. I’ve eaten here about 10 times, and my brother had a memorable meal last winter. The restaurant is small, perhaps 10 or 12 tables, so book well in advance.

Back in Dorsoduro, my secret find used to be the Enoteca Ai Artisti, a family owned place serving up delicious, honest cooking. Back then, the Enoteca was known only by the locals in Dorsoduro. It is located in the depths of Dorsoduro, but some years ago it was discovered, and now during the tourist season, is mobbed. Friends who ate there this spring report that it is still excellent, but service can be a bit harried. As this is an enoteca, wine is taken seriously here.

A visit to Venice would not be complete without hanging out in a wine bar. Just as Spain has its tapas bars, Venice has it cichetti bars. The Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi in Dorsoduro was where I hung out in the evenings. In winter, there are few tourists here, and the place has a jovial neighborhood atmosphere. Plates of cichetti still cost 1 euro to 1.5 euro each. Red and white wines are always offered by the glass, and a meal for two, depending on how much one eats and drinks, will run no more than 30 euros. Opposite the bar is a wall that is lined with hundreds of bottles of wine for sale.

Lastly, a tip. One winter, I got up at 4:30am and walked to the Piazza San Marco. The Piazza has a certain feel when it is mobbed during the day, and a completely different vibe when no one is there. The Piazza was empty that morning save for the lone figure of an old man sweeping the piazza. It was snowing lightly, with the faintest light of dawn appearing at the horizon. The Basilica di San Marco and other monuments stood majestically in the background as it has for centuries. If one strained one’s ears long enough, one could hear the whispers coming from their walls. Magical, and enchanting. This memory will haunt me forever, and it was then that I realized that Venice is breathtakingly beautiful, indeed, achingly so, because of the confluence of decay and elegance that defines this place.

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Piazza San Marco is not crowded before 8 am. No need to go at 4:30, though that is impressive!! The flow of tourists hits hard 9 ish, as the cruise ship passengers descend. Then things lighten up after 5 or so, but the morning is magical.

The open market with its beautiful fruits and veggies is a fun place to roam and grab some snacks for later in the day. It’s right along the Grand Canal. And there is a place to wash anything you buy right there, too.

My habit when we travel abroad is to get up very early – around sunrise – and take my camera out to watch the city wake up while my wife sleeps. It is particularly rewarding in Venice because of the quality of the light early in the morning. But it is always a good way to see the city as the locals see it.

The key is a nice mid-to-late afternoon nap when the tourists are at their most active.

Peter Moy: Thank you so much! That is simply fantastic information. flirtysmile I really have tons to think about and luckily plenty of time to digest all these facts!

Cheers!
Marshall

I ain’t done yet, Marshall. I’ve got lots more for you when I have time.

Peter has great information. I merely have opinions. :slight_smile:

We really enjoyed Osteria alle Testiere. I second the recommendation to book well in advance. I can’t tell you how many people came in while we were eating, only for them to be turned away for lack of a reservation. What’s on the menu is what was fresh in the market today. You truly feel like the chef is cooking specifically for you.

We stayed at Hotel Ca Segredo which was quite roomy. We had their only room with access to a roof patio, from which we had a 360 degree view of Venice. Most impressive.

The other thing that we stumbled into was Sunday morning (7:30 a.m.) Mass at St. Marks. You use the side entrance marked something like “for worship.” The church is not open to tourists on Sunday morning, so it was just us and about 25 other people. Wow. Mass was over just about the time that the Campanile opened, so we were in the first group to the top, from which we watched the flag raising over the piazza. Note that, as I understand it, the cruise ships do not come in on Sunday because St. Mark’s is closed until noon. And that’s a good thing. Seeing the effects of cruise ship day trippers on Venice has convinced me that I have no interest in cruising.

We were going to take the elevator at the Campanile, but it got stuck. We were in the next group. They got the people out, who all took refunds, as did our group except for a Russian family. I guess if you fly Aeroflot you have a different concept of risk.

Don’t forget other cities in the Veneto. Easily reached via the train. Verona is great. Vicenza is the city of Palladio, but you might need a car to visit all his buildings.

This. We stayed here a few years ago and it was an incredible experience. The owners are fabulous folks who make you feel like family and the hotel is right on the grand canal with a birds eye view of the Rialto bridge. Afternoon drinks or coffee on the patio were just beautiful. Plus, they have a coffee machine that needs to be seen and tasted. I have never had better espresso and cappuccino in my life. The machine is the size of a refrigerator.

Look into it. If we were to return to Venice, we would absolutely stay here again.

One of the most enduring images associated with Venice is that of a gondola plying the waters of the Grand Canal with a couple seated in loving embrace. It is a romantic image, for which there are no shortage of couples and families lining up for this most quintessential of Venetian experiences. The city of Venice presumably regulates this activity, setting official rates for what a gondola ride should cost. Some gondoliers respect the set rate, but as there is an infinite number of people for whom a gondola ride is a must, there is an equal number of gondoliers, knowing that a lot of money can be made, who ignore the regulation. There are gondola stations everywhere along the Grand Canal. One cannot miss them, if only because the gondoliers or their designated barkers will try to entice you to get on board.

Last time I checked, the going rate was 80 euros for 40 minutes. One can negotiate a lower fare, but if you do, the ride will be less than 40 minutes, and some gondoliers won’t tell you this. If you want the full treatment, and ask the gondolier to be Tony Bennett or Pavarotti, you’ll pay more. If you really want the full treatment and go for a sunset ride (after 7pm), you’ll pay more. If you’re having a great time on a sunset ride while the gondolier is serenading you, and you ask if he can extend the tour a little longer, you’ll hear the cash register ring again. The point is, if you negotiate with a gondolier, be sure both parties are absolutely clear on how much the ride will cost, how long he’ll ply the Grand Canal, and how much more it will cost if you ask for more time and he sings. Even then, this being Venice, the gondolier may still shortchange you. If negotiating does not appeal to you, hotel concierges can arrange a gondola for you, but it’s going to cost more because, this being Venice, he takes his cut too. In another post, I’ll detail the darker side of Venetian commerce.

If you must ride a gondola but the thought of parting with more euros than you care to spend doesn’t appeal, there is another alternative, and one that I used all the time. Take a traghetto, which many locals do if they wish to go from point A to point B and avoid taking a vaporetto, which is almost always crowded. A traghetto is a gondola, outfitted to accommodate a certain number of people on the way home with groceries or to get to somewhere more quickly. Some locals take a traghetto just to cross one side of the Grand Canal to the other, a trip of some five minutes or less. Many riders stand on a traghetto as the seating is limited. There are signs all along the Grand Canal that indicate where one can board a traghetto. Best of all, it costs around one euro or so to ride!

There are two other forms of water transport to consider. Ferries, or vaporetti, course up and down the Grand Canal morning, afternoon and evening. Vaporetto stations are everywhere on the Grand Canal, and it’s a great way to see the architecture of the city from the water. A ticket booth is situated at every stop, and after you buy a ticket, be sure to validate it in a ticket box before you board. Now it used to be that the ticket takers on board did not even look at your ticket, which led some tourists (and locals) to forego buying tickets altogether and ride for free. Some years ago, the city fathers got wise to this when they wondered why vaporetti revenue was so low. Consequently, they installed undercover agents on the most popular routes, where they chose riders at random and asked to see their tickets. Fines, which had to be paid on the spot, ran upwards of 50 euros or more.

The other form of transport is a motorboat, the virtue of which allows one to get to one’s destination much faster as well as dream how James Bond must have felt riding one of these things. If you fly into Venice, a vaporetto will take about an hour (or longer) from the airport to Venice, whereas a motorboat cuts the time in half or shorter. IIRC, a motorboat from the airport costs some 100 euros, perhaps more. Many visitors, eager to get into Venice quicker, ask complete strangers at the airport if they want to share in the cost. Sharing the cost is a good way to pay a lower tariff, since the fare is fixed and not dependent on how many people are in the motorboat.

A motorboat can be reserved in advance online. This is more convenient than having to wait with crowds of people who line up en masse at the motorboat station outside the airport. The station is a stone’s throw from the airport. Of course, hotel concierges can arrange a motorboat for you, but this being Venice, the cost will be higher since he/she gets a cut.

In the next post, the wine and cuisine of Venice.

I haven’t been as often as Peter, but we’ve been a handful of times, including 3 times in the past 10 years, most recently in September 2015 for Biennale. We’ve stayed around the city and agree with Peter’s recommendation of staying in Dorsoduro. Last year, we stayed in Dorsoduro at the ‘new’ Centurion Palace, which, like most recent Venice hotel construction, consists of gutting an old palazzo and building a new hotel inside. We liked the hotel very much and will return next year when we visit Biennale 2017. Opposite the Grand Canal from the Gritti Palace and one stop (Salute) from San Marco. Close enough, but outside of the crush, with a tremendous view from our canalside room. The restaurant we liked the most last trip was Ristorante Riviera, located on the southern side of Dorsoduro on Fondamenta Zattere al Ponte Longo. We also liked Osteria Oliva Nera, which is located near Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci, half way between the Basilica and Arsenale. Finally, although it is touristic, I still like the braised baby octopus for lunch at Trattoria alla Madonna.

Better than a gondola ride, visit the Squero San Trovaso gondola workshop, if they will let you sneak in.

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