Venice is one of the great cities of the world, and unique in that it is built entirely on water. Having visited some two dozen times when I lived in Rome and another dozen times since, it is a place that is dear to me. Autumn is a good time to visit, and although there are still crowds at that time, it is not nearly as chaotic as it is in late spring, summer, and early autumn. My preference has always been to visit from late November to early March, a time when the locals reclaim their city and imbue it with a spirit that is distinctly Venetian.
The city itself is divided into six sestieri or districts. They are San Marco, San Polo, Santa Croce, Castello, Cannaregio, and Dorsoduro. San Marco is where the famed Piazza San Marco is located, along with the Basilica di San Marco and the Campanile. As a first time visitor, Marshall, you should take in these sights. Cannaregio is the most densely populated of the sestieri, but is also where the Jewish Ghetto is located. Historically, this is where the Jews were segregated from the rest of the population. Castello is the largest of the sestieri, and composed of such a maze of back streets and canals that you will be forever lost once there. San Polo is where the famous Rialto Bridge is, and it is this bridge that connects San Polo to San Marco. Santa Croce is the first sestiere one enters from mainland Italy via the Ponte della Liberta. As such, it is the only sestiere where one sees cars. Dorsoduro is the southernmost of the sestieri, and my favorite. I have never stayed anywhere but here, in large part because the tourists clear out by late afternoon and the district returns to the serenity it is known for. Here, one is in the midst of the Venice of families and students. The Dorsoduro is home to most of the great museums of Venice. The Gallerie dellâAccademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Palazzo Grassi, among others, are located here.
As for hotels, I can suggest only the ones I have stayed in in Dorsoduro. One thing to keep in mind is that most visitors stay in the San Marco and Rialto areas because of their proximity to the sights. As such, youâll pay a premium, and if youâre not careful, a dear premium for location. The irony is that Venice is eminently walkable, and you can explore the entire city on foot. It never took me more than 15-20 minutes to walk leisurely from the Dorsoduro to say, San Marco Square. Bottom line, no need to stay in San Marco or the Rialto because you can walk everywhere.
The hotels are rated from 0 stars to 5 stars. When I first started coming to Venice from Rome, my hotel of choice was the 2 star Hotel Agli Alboretti (it has since been elevated to 3 stars). The rooms are very clean and well kept, and that it is located in the Dorsoduro, very quiet. The proprietress of the hotel was also the sommelier of the Ristorante Agli Alboretti, which is attached to the hotel. I had some of the greatest wine experiences of my life here, but that is, alas, another story for another time. I believe the restaurant is presently under new ownership.
I also stayed at the Pensione Accademia a few times. It is housed in a building that was the former home of the Russian Consulate. The Pensione is very popular among Americans and the British, and it used to be that booking a room here was difficult because repeat customers always reserved a year in advance. What distinguishes the Pensione is that the guests tend to be well-travelled. In the evenings, many guests would convene in the large sitting room and trade stories and tips about Venice.
My hotel of choice in the Dorsoduro is the 4 star Caâ Pisani, a design hotel that is absolutely gorgeous. The service is wonderful and the spread they put out at breakfast can hold you until dinner. My brother and his family stayed here last December, and he will return. If you like high tech gadgetry in your room, this hotel has it. Another design hotel to consider is the 4 star Charming House DD724. I stayed here only once, and while we enjoyed it very much, there were service issues then that have hopefully been ironed out. This hotel is located right next to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
As for restaurants, Osteria alle Testiere is a seafood only restaurant located in Castello that deserves its reputation for impeccable cuisine. The chef has a creative bent, and at times lightly flavors some of his seafood dishes with ginger and cinnamon, spices that one normally does not associate with Italian cooking. That is, however, until one realizes that Venice was once a maritime power, and brought in goods and spices from the Middle East and Asia. The front of the house is run by a fellow named Luca, who speaks at least 5 languages and is a sommelier. Ask him for recs and heâll always come up with a good bottle for you. Iâve eaten here about 10 times, and my brother had a memorable meal last winter. The restaurant is small, perhaps 10 or 12 tables, so book well in advance.
Back in Dorsoduro, my secret find used to be the Enoteca Ai Artisti, a family owned place serving up delicious, honest cooking. Back then, the Enoteca was known only by the locals in Dorsoduro. It is located in the depths of Dorsoduro, but some years ago it was discovered, and now during the tourist season, is mobbed. Friends who ate there this spring report that it is still excellent, but service can be a bit harried. As this is an enoteca, wine is taken seriously here.
A visit to Venice would not be complete without hanging out in a wine bar. Just as Spain has its tapas bars, Venice has it cichetti bars. The Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi in Dorsoduro was where I hung out in the evenings. In winter, there are few tourists here, and the place has a jovial neighborhood atmosphere. Plates of cichetti still cost 1 euro to 1.5 euro each. Red and white wines are always offered by the glass, and a meal for two, depending on how much one eats and drinks, will run no more than 30 euros. Opposite the bar is a wall that is lined with hundreds of bottles of wine for sale.
Lastly, a tip. One winter, I got up at 4:30am and walked to the Piazza San Marco. The Piazza has a certain feel when it is mobbed during the day, and a completely different vibe when no one is there. The Piazza was empty that morning save for the lone figure of an old man sweeping the piazza. It was snowing lightly, with the faintest light of dawn appearing at the horizon. The Basilica di San Marco and other monuments stood majestically in the background as it has for centuries. If one strained oneâs ears long enough, one could hear the whispers coming from their walls. Magical, and enchanting. This memory will haunt me forever, and it was then that I realized that Venice is breathtakingly beautiful, indeed, achingly so, because of the confluence of decay and elegance that defines this place.