We’re visiting Italy for the first time in September, and will spend a few days in the Tuscan countryside. I’ve gotten some wonderful travel recommendations from board members, but I thought I’d ask specifically about people’s experiences with winery tours or visits in the region. It’s our first visit, and we’re a little overwhelmed by the number of wineries in the area. We’ll be driving from Florence to Siena in the late AM, staying in Siena for two nights, then to Montepulciano for another night before we head south. I tried to search old threads, but didn’t come up with too much.
We tend toward more classically styled Tuscan wines, and are not big fans of the more modern (or non-Italian varietal) Italian wines. That said, any recommendations are very much appreciated, and please let me know if reservations are needed/recommended.
Montepulciano is about a 40 minute drive from Montalcino. There are lots of great wineries to visit there, if you wanted to drive out and make a day of it, plus terrific restaurants and a very good regional enoteca. I think the wines there are much better than in Montepulciano.
If that interests you, you will find plenty of threads on here about it. Among traditional type producers, I’d recommend Lisini (ultratraditional) and Uccelliera (not ultratraditional, but very true to the place). Fuligni is another traditional producer that was a nice visit, plus I think it’s to the side of town in the direction of Montepulciano (not certain of that though).
Had a nice visit at Fattoria Monsanto several years ago. At the time they were selling library wines for reasonable prices. I’d revisit and add Montesecondo too.
I know you will get some great suggestions here on where/whom to visit. We went last year and had a great time. I recommend Enoteca la Fortezza di Montalcino if you like Brunello - they really provide a top rate tasting experience of the top Brunello producers. I would also recommend that you use Prestige Rent (and ask for Stephano as a driver if you do), they are out of Florence and were a great contributor to the quality of our trip. They have a real inside track with many producers and can set up almost anything you want.
Montepulciano is very much set up for casual visits, and if you want a tasting day where the car is left parked up and no appointments necessary, then that would be the place. FWIW I still think arranging an appointment gets you a little more respect / hospitality. There are some really good producers out of town if you did want to drive.
In town I’ll definitely recommend Crociani, for their Vino Nobile wines (with the classical and pleasing leanness I enjoy) but also a quite decent Vin Santo. If you’re wary of super-tuscans and internationalised / softened wines, then I think Montepulciano should be a happy place for you.
For Siena (a city I didn’t really take to) if there on a Friday morning, then do head a stone’s throw from the Palio to Piazza del Mercato, for the small but brilliant quality farmers market. If in the city on the Wednesday there is the very large but more humdrum city market around the Fortress / Stadium part of town. For food Dolceforte on via Cazoleria 12 surprised for being good despite being reasonably close to the Palio.
In Montepulciano
*La Grotta - Localita’ San Biagio, 15, Phone: 0578 757607 closed wed (really quite classy and surprisingly so considering it faces a tourist attraction)
Osteria del Conte - Via San Donato, 19, Phone: 0578.766.062 closed wed (a bit more low key, but felt very genuine in a region that can be a bit touristy)
*Borgo Buio - Via Borgo Buio 10, Phone: 0578 717497 closed mon (a cautious suggestion, the owner being an amateur opera singer who likes to entertain the restaurant. Food was ok but not great, so only go if you want a little OTT entertainment)
Whilst in Siena I’d be looking to target the Southern part of the quite large Chianti region
I was beginning to think I was the only one. Everybody else I know who goes there just raves about it. I didn’t hate it or anything, but it just somehow wasn’t the place for me or my wife.
This was 10 years ago or so, but my wife and I had a terrific visit to Castello della Paneretta in the Chianti region. They are located in a beautiful (but not at all ostentatious or Disney-ish) castle which I think is about a thousand years old, and the visit was really friendly and lovely. I’ve always liked their wines, though I rarely ever see them in the USA anymore.
I think the winery has been in existance for several hundred years, and they have these amazing wine cellars underneath it, just damp old places where perishable items would have been stored in ancient times.
I had a very nice experience at Felsina. Toured their facility and also did some wine and olive oil tasting. Definitely schedule an appointment ahead of time. I also really enjoyed Fontodi as well. Enjoy Tuscany!
Visited Tuscany this past spring and stayed two nights in Montepulciano. Montepulciano is a beautiful town with good to great QPR wines. Recommend in this order of preference:
Boscarelli (ask for the meat and cheese plate to accompany the tasting), intimate tour and tasting of small production wines with winemaker/owner
Talosa (in the middle of the old city with old underground caves and feel) nice tour and tasting
Poliziano (more of a commercial, large producer, upscale tasting room and modern facility)
(All had very nice olive oils.)
For dinner, highly recommend Rosso Rubino…
I would definitely visit Montalcino as well. While we didn’t tour any wineries here, the town was beautiful and I enjoyed the wines better. Would definitely spend more time here and seek out wineries if I could do it again or the next time.
Some friends visited Avignonesi years ago and were happy. It was part of an organised wine tour holiday. If there is an outside chance at getting to taste their vin santo, then don’t think just contact them.
Avignonesi does a nice tour - they show you how they make the vin santo, but unfortunately don’t include it in the tasting. You can also just stop in for a tasting. While I wouldn’t recommend it for a first visit to the area or for someone with limited time, their noon tour and lunch is a really nice way to spend 3 hours.
In Montalcino, if you like traditional, consider visiting Conti Costanti. I’ll second the recommendation of Uccelliera as well.
Another second (or third) for Monsanto in Chianti, but a stronger second for Fontodi, a short drive down the road from Monsanto, tough to find but a worthwhile visit.
If you do head out to Avignonesi or Poliziano, then I’ll put in a very good word for Daviddi who are very much off the radar but with good wines at very fair prices and a very hospitable family winery with it. A great antidote to some of the wineries who are a little too experienced with tourists.
We were in Tuscany earlier this year and had great visits at:
Montalcino
Uccelliera - wonderful tour and tasting, down to earth with the family
Altesino - okay visit, I like the wines, a bit commercial, remote down a dusty road
Le Pottazine - interesting tour/tasting, very high-end boutiquey, cleanest winery I EVER saw, fun overall.
Montepulciano
Boscarelli - fantastic tour and tasting outside Montepulciano; down to earth and great folks
Enjoyed them all but I would at least try a couple Montalcino (for Brunelli) and then hit Boscarelli (for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano)
Thanks everyone, this is very, very helpful. We’ll do our very best to visit Monsanto, Felsina, Boscarelli, and maybe Uccelleria. I’ll be putting out more feelers (with my terrible Italian) to these places in the following days.