Oregon McMinnville Trip

[I edited my original post. Most of you would have a field day with it… to quote someone on this board “Oregon humor can be very dry, highly acidic, and somewhat astringent, so it can take some time for us California people to make sense of it.”]

Hello all!

I have read great posts here regarding Oregon. Wife & I are doing a last-minute trip to Oregon (our first time) from the East Coast. As an aside, I must say there are so many more interesting tastings to do in this area than Napa or Mendoza region! I’m actually bummed they are usually offered at start of the day, so we can’t double-up and do more than 2-3 on this trip.

Thanks to the great resources on this board, I have put together the following schedule (subject to confirmed appointments). Would appreciate any feedback anyone could share [also slotting in one last winery tasting on Day 2]

DAY 1:
We drive in from Yachats; not sure what time, so it will be likely difficult to do a tasting unfortunately
So will likely do a tasting room (any suggestions would be appreciated!)

DAY 2: DO 5 WITH DRIVER
Domaine Drouhin: Pinot vs. Burgundy Tasting Guided Tasting
Patricia Green Cellars: Requested appointment
Brick House or White Rose
Valley Commissary - lunch
[ Final Winery TBD - Suggestions Appreciated!]
Eyrie

DAY 3
Cristom Vineyards Guided tasting
Walter Scott [if we have time]
Then head off to Portland to end our trip!

Thank you!

P.S. Dinner at Painted Lady evening of Day 1, Day 2 planning for Dundee Bistro

You have two good restaurants for dinner, but I would also recommend Recipe in Newberg and Thistle in McMinnville.

After your lunch at the Valley Commissary, there are several excellent wineries in the same location. Our winery Matello/Goodfellow Family Cellars is directly next door. Across the parking lot is Winderlea and Brittan, next to them is Dominio IV.
Just down Alpine Ave.(right behind the Commissary) about a block and a half beyond Eyrie is Westrey. All have very good wines, depending upon your stylistic preferences and either see visitors by appointment or have regular TR hours.
Enjoy the trip!

Thank you!

Recipe had an unfortunate fire in June and is temporarily closed. I will look into Thistle.

is there a local site that highlights stylistic differences of the various wineries listed? I have a preference for medium-to-full, not tart wines, with either obvious nuances and/or velvety mouth feel. My wife prefers medium bodied wines and is more focused on balance then any specific nuance. We are in early stages of figuring out what we like in Pinot (style and producer) and are looking forward to this trip. I personally enjoy toasted oak cabs, Malbec cab blends, Greek Burgundian style wines, and green peppery cab francs… A random/specific list put together by my travels rather than an educated study of all things wine. I am really looking to learning about pinot, and the various styles (particularly the burgudian influenced ones, which I hope will be more fruit forward their French counterparts).

Honestly, you might want to focus on tasting 2014 vintage wines. Some 2013s are coming around nicely, but 2014 is typically not overtly tart, and is medium-full bodied.

Of the list of wineries, Winderlea/Brittan may be your best bet. Although Dominio IV also does a number of non-Pinot Noir bottlings that are lovely.
Our wines are often less fruit forward, but in 2014 our style danced well with Mother Nature and fit your preferences well.

Marcus, thank you for the tips. Seriously appreciated! That said, our itinerary is not looking too full and given driving distances greater than I am probably prepared for, are there any 2 wineries on our agenda you would considered eliminating for stylistic or other reasons? I am only now realizing I screwed up reading google maps and our requested appointment time at PGC may be too tight, and will need to be moved… and I would love to stop by your winery and thank you personally for this help :slight_smile:

Is it reasonable to hire a local taxi company as driver for the day vs. the wine tour operators? I have found those tour operators to be booked for the day, and I have put together my own schedule myself at this point.

Thank you Marcus.
P.S. Liking the menu at Thistle Restaurant… they had me at Lamb Bacon!

Hi Dave,

Looking at your itinerary, Patrricia Green and Brickhouse are relatively close to each other. Ayres and Beaux Freres are also right there.
Conversely, Domaine Drouhin and White Rose are close to each other. All four of your choices are in my top 10 favorite wineries, but it would make sense just to pick two that are geographically close.

I don’t honestly know if a taxi would be reasonable, but you could call the local companies and ask about a day rate. I suspect it would be relatively close in cost.

What are the dates you are in town? Since you’re having lunch at Valley Commissary(I love their food), I would be happy to meet you as you wrap up lunch.

Thank you Marcus. In town next week, Wed eve, Thu all day, Fri AM.

Final schedule not finalized. I’m now thinking I may want to do take out from the Valley Commissary, which isn’t ideal from a pace-of-day kind of thing. Am realizing I can’t do everything I want to do, as I haven’t allocated enough time to the valley, and driving times/appointment times conflict. If I had two full days, then I comfortably do what I want to do, but we made a last minute trip tweak and will be staying on the Coast Tuesday evening, which will limit what we can do Wed. Further, there are two tastings which I want to do in the AM, and this forces what is left to the PM, and there aren’t enough PM hours given the appointment-only roughly take last seating at 2-3PM etc.

So I’m on an etchasketch right now trying out various schedules… shaking it up and trying again! I need IBM’s Watson to optimize my 36 hours in the valley.

Sad to say but perhaps good for your scheduling difficulties, we are out of town next week. Any way you can get food from the Commissary will be worthwhile, don’t miss it.

Happy to help out with any other advice, but enjoy your trip! And I will hope to see you next time around.

Thank you for the trip advice to Oregon. Below is my trip report (no pretense here, I am a novice and many comments below reflect this).

We visited the wineries in order of:
Beaux Frerre
Patricia Green
Winderlea
Walter Scott
Cristom
Bethel Heights
Domaine Drouhin
De Ponte Cellars

We stayed at:
Brookside Inn in Carlton. Highly recommend the place. Owners are great folks who are running the B&B as a non-profit to channel profits towards local and international (Ghana) charities focused on agriculture. Ground is on a ton of acreage with lakes, trees, trails etc. Opened a year ago. And 15 minutes away from Ribbon Ridge/Dundee Hill major wineries.

Major Takeaways:
We spent nearly the whole trip tasting wines that would not be ready for many years - and we were unprepared for this! And library wines were not readily available to taste. This surprised us the most, as only Beaux Frerre (on their “Comparative Tasting” tried '07 and '08) and De Ponte (who hold back cases proactively/have the slowest releases) were able/willing to pour older vintages. As a result, for the vast majority of the trip, we were tasting 2014 and some 2013. Being novices, we didn’t appreciate ahead of time that we would be tasting wines that wouldn’t be ready for show time for another 5+ years. Indeed, I was confused at first… so many of the wines were so tart (to me) and unbalanced… and people seemed to be buying them to drink now! Only after a few conversations did I appreciate that (i) many of the Oregon producers that I visited have small libraries, (ii) were sold out of more recent vintages, e.g. 2011s and 2012s, and (iii) don’t proactively tell their visitors that the 2014s they are tasting should be cellared for many years.

Must be prepared to cellar for years if buying. We don’t have a cellar, but I’m hoping my father won’t mind 30 bottles we picked up for his basement. I’ve never bought bottles for 5-10 years aging before…

Such a wide spectrum of wine styles! The PCG tasting really highlighted this to us… all 2014 vintage in the tasting… ?we tasted 8?, and the differences and range was so long.

Pricepoints for stuff we really liked was higher than expected. I naively assumed Oregon was going to be cheaper. Our first stop at Beaux Frerre and our favorite bottle at Patricia Greene cured that naivete real quick.

I have a better sense for what I like! I never realized the finish of a wine was so important to me. I also find well rounded wines a little boring.


Winery Takeaways:
Beaux Frerre - The most “napa like” of our wine tastings. I imagine this is price point driven (this was the highest average priced winery we visited), but also because the Comparative Tasting allowed us to taste prior vintages. I liked the 2007, but I wasn’t ready to pay $120 for it. We purchased two 2013s which had both fruit & structure/tannins we thought would marry well over time. There was another bottle I cannot recall that we almost bought, which was a more Burgundian style wine… but I was fearful it would mature too thin for my liking. At Beaux Frerre we had yet to appreciate (i) the cellaring our future purchases would all need, and (ii) the inability to taste the peak aged product.

Patricia Green - the most bipolar of our tastings. First off, really enjoyed the format of this tasting: 8 wines of the same vintage letting you focus on the different terroir and impact on the grapes, and ordered from cheapest to most expensive (providing some interesting structure to the tating). Negatively, we didn’t like a lot of the wines. Too fruit-forward/tart for my liking (not understanding at the time they probably need to be aged for many years?). We liked the Freedom Hill Pommard and considered buying that, and if we had a cellar etc. probably would have. The Notorious was good, but didn’t get us flowing. The 15 Year Cuvee was then going to be our go to. We then tried the 2014 Mysterious. This was our FAVORITE tasting of the trip. Knocked my socks off. It was only a little taste, but we picked up a couple of those for drinking in ?3-6? years. It had this lively fruit, but also this structure and long finish. It was lively, yet balanced. At $100/bottle, this was when we realized “we are going to spend more here than we realized”

Winderlea - this was a somewhat disappointing tasting given the fans out there. I was hoping to turn away from the unripened fruit and get some earth in my glass. But I think the earthiest wine I tasted had a bit of a shorter finish and was a bit thin for my liking. We bought a bottle of the Legacy for $85 because we were there. this is the purchase on the trip I am most unsure about. They had some real lively whites (the chardonnay was a glass of lemon zest to me), but I don’t drink much white.

Walter Scott - Love these people! Busy winemakers who graciously take the time to answer questions, no matter how dumb. More imporantly, I thought their $45 priced 2014s were at this point the best price point we tasted. We really liked their style of wine: lively, yet more structured/balance. They are very excited for their 2015, so we bought some futures for their Muertos (we barrel tasted it). We think we liked the PCG’s 2014 Mysterious more (already in bottle), but we were pretty excited for Muertos, and their upcoming releases. We picked up a few bottles of the 2014 Soujourner as well - drinks tight now, but felt like it had a lot of upside from here. We honestly liked the other 2014s as well, and could have picked up another different bottle or two – but we upgraded to the 2015 Muertos. We also bought 2 of their Chardonnay.

Cristom - Interesting guided tasting by a great host. Of their “Four Ladies”, Marjorie was the winner for us. We liked the earthiness of that bottle, over the others. What is the most interesting bottle for us, however, was their $50 2013 Estate blend. We picked up a few of these. This was BRIGHT fruit, and lots of tannins/structure/finish (vs. our prior tastings at this point). They say its from the whole cluster fermentation. Nevertheless, I am hoping this fruit dies down significantly with age, creating an integrated flavor/finish bomb of the future. If I’m wrong, I still think this wine will be very awesome, albeit more fruity than my liking. The 2013 estate hasn’t been released yet, but can be ordered at the tasting room in the guided tasting (not the regular way) and over the phone. I’m told its having a decent reception in the tasting room, but hasn’t had that big of an audience yet.

Bethel Heights - Overall was a little disappointed with most of the regular way line-up: well balanced 2014s that didn’t interest me so much (although good wines). What we DID like was their “Southeastern Block”. This was a real earthy wine which we are hoping gets more integrated with time. We thought this was great value (?45? I can’t recall) vs. other tastings we did. We ended up topping this purchase with some of their higher end purchases to age alongside (I got carried away). As I’m typing this, I’m now realized I bought more on this trip than I realized and don’t have obvious room to store. I think some of these Southeastern Blocks will be gifts. The staff at Bethel Heights were great and I loved our wine host.

Domaine Drouhin - Beautiful room, and I loved the service. We bought two bottles of the Lauren barrel selection (2011 and 2012). We were able to taste the 2012 and it was very good. More elegant of a style wine than say the PCG Mysterious/Walter Scott Muertos/Cristom estate bottles we purchased. We purchased the 2011 thinking Domaine Drouhin was the last stop on our trip, and not having tasted any 2011s that we kept hearing about at our stops. Sitting here today, I know that’s an awesome bottle of wine, but an example of the excess we now have to plan the next 5-10 years for! as an aside, the anecdote of sending 1000 barrel selections to the wine maker in France each month was quite the factoid!

De Ponte - This was the sleeper winner of the trip. We came upon this winery in interesting fashion: 1) Our B&B Inn Owner’s favorite producer, 2) a wine host at one of the more reputable producers above suggested this would match my taste [they also suggested Thomas, failing to mention the winery is a mirage], and 3) a wine host at one of the other more reputable producers above suggest I make this my last stop, over Domaine Serene. I am glad we were steered here. First off, we tasted 2009, 2011, and 2012 – this producer holds back wine until its more ready to taste! Major points for newbies like us. Second off, the value was GREAT. Their 2011 Halsey $35 entry wine was SOLID weekday drinking at one of the lowest price points we saw on the trip. Third off, we liked what we drank! Only at Walter Scott did we really like the entire range. I liked their 2011 Dundee Hills (earth and structure, and enough finish to justify the $44 price point to me), but wife liked the 2012 more (more fruit/rounded). Fourth, we got along GREAT with the wine host ?Evan? and talked about our trip, Greek wines, about De Ponte etc. and he casually suggested I may like the 2011 Reserve, which was re-released. I hope he is right, because I bought a lot of the 2011 Reserve, which added the 2012 Dundee Hills, 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, and a Pinot Rose and 2009 Pinot… took us up to a case… which brought the prices down to what felt like really really cheap levels for this region. I’m looking at opening a 2011 Reserve when I receive it to see what I got, and comparing the 2012 Dundee (which we tasted) to the 2012 Estate (which we didn’t). As I type this, it probably makes sense to change a 2011 Reserve to the 2011 Dundee so I can comparison taste in the future.


Wineries which we wished we could have visited:
Alexana: Lots of folks mentioned this one to us on our trip. From saying its “fun” to “great wines”.
White Rose: Seems like a crowd favorite that we missed, whether for the view or wine.
John Thomas: where art thou?
Domaine Serene or Bergstrom: I would have liked to do a tasting at a higher price point (hoping they wouldn’t be all 2014s!)


As I sit here today
Tabulating our haul… we have bought too much! Will need to sort out some immediate bottles for gifts and drinking. The sad part of this trip is so many bottles need to be aged so many years… sad not just because we can’t share them friends today, but also because I gaffed and I don’t have the space! If I did things differently today, I would have not bought at Beaux Frerre or Winderlea, trimmed some whites, and put in more weekday drinkables (although there weren’t many ready to be drunk on this trip).

If anyone is in NY and wants to buy a bottle of Cristom 2013 Estate, Bethel Heights '14 Southeastern Block, or De Ponte 2011 Reserve… I’d be happy to oblige when I receive them this Fall (they will all be shipped) at my cost. Serious offer! Also willing to part with some of the others if anything catches your fancy, let me know!


PPS
My wife now says, “can we still go to Napa? we can buy wines which we can drink now?”. [truce.gif]

Yes, the better OR producers’ Pinots need time, although many of the WV base bottlings can be enjoyed upon release and are fantastic QPRs.

Too bad you don’t like whites, as there are many excellent OR whites that can be enjoyably consumed near term or aged. Walter Scott Chards, for example.

David, I would recommend sourcing some older Oregon pinots on Winebid, Commerce Corner or reputable retailers. I’ve bought a lot of terrific older bottles at great pricing through all of these methods.

Thanks for the tip! That’s what my thought was on the flight back, and I was checking online to see what was available re what I tasted (not as much as I expected, but makes sense given this was a spot in time and I tasted mainly smaller producers). Pricing was interesting… I could have bought the 2013 Beaux Frere Vineyard slightly only sligon Winebid, and had the option of storing them with winebid (at a cost) which would have worked better for my current situation.

I still think I would be feel compelled to buy in the tasting rooms when I am the one begging the pourer for off-list pours etc… so not sure what the etiquette would be of (i) let me visit the tasting room to learn about the producer and trying the full range, and then (ii) buy wine on auction sites vs. directly from the winery. Keen to know what advice you have for this type of situation?

Unfortunately, I bought a lot of Pinot already at this point for my needs. That said, a lot of wine we purchased won’t be ready for a while, so I may buy some older bottles on winebid/others to give it a try out.

IMO, you shouldn’t feel pressured to buy something at the tasting room. If it’s something that you truly enjoy and you had a great experience, then it’s a good idea to buy something there (especially if it’s a small producer).

Also if you can get your hands on an older vintage bottle directly at the winery, that’s always preferable to buying on an auction site. In many cases, that’s either not possible or very expensive. You can take some low cost flyers on older bottles on winebid and feel good about it.