Passage 53 (Paris) disillusionment

Inspired by Charlie Fu’s extremely positive report (followed by a nod from Jeremy Holmes) we booked for lunch when we were in Paris at the end of March.

With great anticipation, we found it (not completely trivial, there is almost no signage, but so what) and were greeted by a covey of black-suited waiters who seemed almost to be rubbing their hands in anticipatory glee at our arrival. The space is very small, although the ceiling is high, so it is not spacious, but not as cramped as it might seem otherwise. We ordered the full tasting menu, some twelve courses or so.

Unfortunately, we were (sadly) very disappointed. Basically, none of the flavor combinations worked for me, I found them all uninteresting. No problem with quality of the ingredients–it was very high–or the preparation, consistently extremely careful and precise. The issue was that I just didn’t think the flavors enhanced each other, not for any of the dishes. It started with a broccoli velouté, topped with tiny broccoli florets. This was, as mentioned and as for all the dishes, clearly very carefully made. But it just didn’t taste good! Kind of floury and dull, it didn’t pique my interest at all. Another dish consisted mainly of a piece of white fish (haddock, IIRC) together with a piece of endive. The presentation was very pretty, both fish and vegetable were cut to almost exactly the same shape. But the flavors (including some sauce that I didn’t ask about, so I don’t know what it contained) did not bind the two main ingredients, if anything the flavors seemed at war with each other. Another one that sticks in my memory was veal with morels, the morels being carefully stuffed. However, there was no morel flavor at all, they tasted as if they had been pickled for so long that all mushroom flavor was gone. That’s almost criminal, in my book! By the time we got to dessert, boredom and ennui had set in and we gave up on the place.

Too bad! In Charlie’s defense (and to be clear, I’m not blaming my reaction on him at all), from what he describes the menu was very different when he was there. So maybe that explains some of it. Perhaps I should also say that I am not a “traditionalist” when it comes to food, I very much enjoyed EMP (Eleven Madison Park in NYC) under the “old” menu (haven’t been there in a few years), and the night before the Passage debacle we ate at Restaurant l’AG (St. Germain) which was fabulous.

Damned with taint praise.

bummer about your experience! one of our best meals in Paris… best if you factor in QPR…

Thanks, Mark. Well, you can’t win 'em all!

I have reservations here in a few weeks from now. Will report back assuming we still end up going there.

Please do. And note that many people love the place, which is why I was so surprised. YMMV

I am with Charlie on this place - one of the best meals of my short life! The add on starter of buttered gnocchi, parmesan crisp and dollop of Beluga caviar w/champagne will stay etched in my taste buds forever (the $50 upcharge will as well!). 3 hours of bliss for my wife and I.

sorry to read this - sounds like you went there on a root day.

our experience was profound.

Not everyone does -or should- like the same things, including restaurants. We’ve been to Passage 53 annually since they opened and have always been delighted. Not that it should be the case, but there seem to be more reports hereabouts of disappointing experiences at /* Paris restaurants at lunch, rather than dinner.

Ah, that would explain it!

Sorry man . I kinda had a similar reaction at l’arpage where most everyone loved it and I really didn’t. It happens. It just sucks that you spend hundreds of dollars and it happens. Hope your other meals were much better!!

Thanks, Charlie! Sorry for your l’Arpege experience. Our other meals were indeed better–Restaurant l’AG the best (tho it was mostly a family trip, we didn’t go to other high-end places).

the problem with passage 53 is that for the price you might as well do the real deal and go to astrance for lunch. not to mention the room sucks and the wines are more expensive than a 3 star. there are many restaurants where you can get the same style of food in a better room for less money and an easier go booking. ES, pages, and neige d’eté are all making very similar food to passage 53 if that is what you are looking for

I’d be damned before I praised a taint.

We had a totally different experience at Passage 53 this past Thursday. It was one of the best meals we’ve had in a while, better than the *** L’Assiette Champenois a few days before. Every course was perfect, a few giving that wow experience you look for in multi-star restaurants. Clearly the chef was “on” that night.

That is the problem in restaurants like this, though. The staff and service might always be great but you are totally dependent on how the chef performs that night, because it really is a performance. Even Bruce Springsteen has a weak night occasionally (fortunately it’s never happened when I’ve seen him).

Peter’s experience sounds like mine at WD-50 in New York. The foodies worshiped at Wylie Dufresne’s feet but our meal was just awful. The simple problem, as in the OP, is that nothing tasted good. And, after all, that’s the only reason you go to a restaurant.

Perhaps, it’s also not the type or cuisine style that one would enjoy. I’ve never been a fan of WD-50 here in NYC (which, if my recollection is correct, had recently closed down) and if the comparison is accurate, then I too wouldn’t be pleased with Passage 53.

passage 53 and WD 50 are nothing a like in cuisine style.

Not to harp on negatives, but was this resto really called WD-50??? That’s about the most unappetizing name I could imagine.

Ed: believe it or not, spellcheck changed that to WD-40!

Yep, WD-50. “WD” are the chef’s initials and the number represents the restaurant’s street address in Manhattan’s Lower East Side.

Yes, I figured that was the reason. But the choice is still exceedingly unappetizing!