Our trip to Japan

First of all, thank you to everyone who made suggestions and offered guidance in planning our vacation. It was very much appreciated!

The trip got off to a good start when Cathay Pacific upgraded us from Premium Economy to Business on the Newark to Hong Kong leg of the journey. There was no PE section from HK to Japan so they stuck us in Economy and it’s amazing how much worse the food was. Food in Business was quite good, food in PE was good, food in Economy was borderline disgusting.

One of the best things I did for the entire trip was rent a persona wifi from http://japan-wireless.com/. They delivered it right to our first night hotel and provided a return envelope so we could just drop it off at the Post Office in the airport right before leaving. It made things much easier to always have internet connectivity.

The second best thing we did was buy a JR Green Pass (1st class Rail pass) before going - big thanks to everyone who suggested it! It made getting around so much easier and the first class train seats were very comfortable.

In Tokyo we stayed at Art Hotels Hammamatscho which was close to both the fish market and where the tours left and which fell firmly in the “room to come back to at night” school of hotel. Staff was nice but clueless, rooms were adequate.
Our attempt to get first morning sushi by the fish market was foiled due to pouring rain. It finally started lightening around 6:30am so we ventured out only to get turned around and walking in the wrong direction (gps was wonky - we’d walk 10 feet and it would show us moving 2 blocks to the left). We ended up having a very nice breakfast at the Conrad Hotel.

The next morning we economized by having our hotel’s free breakfast - big mistake. This was a bit of a theme for us. People who said it’s impossible to eat poorly in Japan are wrong. We tended to alternate between good to wonderful food and “I really wish we had eaten somewhere else” food. And Yelp is just as “useful” in Japan as it is in the US.

We signed up for 2 bus tours, a tour of the sights of Tokyo and a trip to Mt. Fuji. The first was mildly interesting, the second was both great and terrible. The highlight was Lake Hakone where we had a lovely boat trip and a cable car ride to a height were we had a magnificent view of Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately due to lots of traffic the bus ride up there lost us about an hour and a half and then one couple returned late to the bus by a half hour so the time on Mt. Fuji was very, very short. And the long bus ride threw out my back a bit so walking was somewhat painful for the rest of the trip.

Our favorite Tokyo meal ended up being “dipping” ramen on Ramen Street in Tokyo Station. Neither of us had tried that style of ramen before (where you have more of a sauce than a broth and you dip the noodles into it) but it was delicious. We chose the restaurant with the longest line and it worked out well. We immediately looked up that ramen style in NYC and were very disappointed by a dinner at Minca after we got back.

Next, off to Kyoto, undoubtedly the most beautiful city I’ve been to outside of Paris. We stayed at Hotel Monterey Kyoto which I have a hard time saying enough nice things about. Not 5 star luxury, but very reasonably priced and perhaps the most comfortable and welcoming hotel I’ve ever stayed at. Very conveniently located near the crossing of the two main subway lines though a little further from Gion than was really convenient. Unfortunately while the hotel breakfast was decent it really wasn’t worth spending a meal on.

We eventually found a lovely Café around the corner – Iyemon Salon. Room, service and food were all top notch. Small selection of traditional Japanese breakfasts and a delicious green tea latte (something I would have sworn did not exist). Also good desserts. I wanted to make it back there for lunch or dinner or drinks but never managed it.

Two of my three favorite gardens were in Kyoto: Nijo-jo Castle and Nazenji Temple. The gardens at the Kyoto Imperial Palace were nice but not in the same class.

Kaiseki lunch at Gion Matayoshi was splendid. One of the favorite things I had all trip was a pickled chestnut with one of the courses.

Speaking of favorite foods Otukan forever changed the way I look at tofu. The food was refined yet hearty and thoroughly delicious. If you go be warned – cash only. If we ever return to Japan this will be on our must revisit list.

I wish I could say the same thing about Okariba. Perhaps I should have paid more attention to Michel’s comments on how drunk he got while eating there and taken that into account when he raved about the food. The best thing we had were the grasshoppers (very tasty). All the meat was so-so. In his defense much of what Michel said he ate is only available from November through April so perhaps the hot pots are at another level. If you go be warned – cash only. We won’t be back.

A highlight of the trip was meeting Sarah and her husband at Kappo Sakamoto. The food was wonderful, only exceeded by the company (though we are not as big fans of yuba as the two of them are). Some of the best sake I’ve ever had.

After a bit of shopping we headed off to our night at Hiiragiya.
I was a little skeptical when everyone said we had to stay at a traditional Ryokan but I’m very glad we did. Once we had a hot bath and put on our Yakutas it was like being transported to another world and time.

My original plans called for us to take the train to another Ryokan in Miyajima to see the water shrine. I wasn’t looking forward to the train ride there and back. But while checking for the check in time I discovered I forgot to make the reservation! I claim the out of time properties of Hiiragiya allowed me to send a mental message back to my past self to not make the reservation so we were “forced” to go back to Hotel Monterey for another night in Kyoto.

Other highlights included the Nishiki food market and just wandering around various stores. It’s neat how you can turn down what looks like a narrow alleyway and suddenly find yourself in a busy avenue of shops.

When visiting the Isetan in Kyoto station we found there are great views from the open roof of the building. They also have a light show on the stairs. The more secluded areas are apparently a trysting spot as there were a number of young couples seated in secluded nooks. It was incredibly sweet seeing them there, one couple was kissing passionately, another young man had one arm gently around the shoulders of his date while his other gestured out over the city and the stars as though he was telling her of all his hopes and dreams, another couple was huddled intently over the girl’s cell phone.

The basement has a good food court and a good selection of candies, cakes, etc. It’s where I stocked up for gifts. I’m really craving some of those black sesame seed crackers at the moment.

I definitely recommend getting the 2 day subway and bus pass. It makes getting around a lot easier.

We did a day trip from Kyoto to Nara which was certainly worth it. The deer were charming and the Buddha status awe inspiring. Some of the deer are very polite and will come up and bow to you. You then bow back and give them a cracker. Others are ruder and will walk up and try and grab whatever food is in your hand. Or maps out of your back pocket.

Our last day in Tokyo was spent largely in Shinjuku, and the huge electronics store. We left with a back massager and a foot massager which we still haven’t set up. This is also where I tasted the absolute worst ramen of my entire life. We walked out and got some grilled meat elsewhere.

I’ll try and post pictures over the next few days.

Mt. Fuji from Tokyo
Mt Fuji from Tokyo.jpg

Mt. Fuji from Lake Hakone
Mt Fuji from Lake Hakone.jpg

Your travel experiences are greatly appreciated. Things keep popping-up out of my control, but we are ambling toward our first Japan trip.