Edited to include Magnums…
Bonjour d’un bosseur qui ne laisse plus son travail partir aux géants,
Cedric Parpette is taking it back. Continuing the literal groundbreaking work of his uncle, René Fernandez, who cleared and planted over 2 hectares of abandoned vineyards in the precipitously steep, 40 degree sloped Montmain parcel above Vérenay, he has progressively refined both his goals and know how since assuming control of this tiny 3.5 hectare domaine in 2003. Historically, his uncle had sold all of his fruit to the regional Big Dogs, Guigal and Chapoutier. As Cedric found himself increasingly comfortable at the helm, coupled with an ever growing crowd at his cellar door, he has shunned the siren song of the négociants, preferring to bottle his own work under his own name. Following a Coup de Coeur award for the 2006 vintage of Montmain in the French Guide Hachette publication, it was clear that his was a star rising, and he hasn’t looked back since…
His parcels are in two lieux dits in the northern Côte Brune schist dominant vineyards of Montmain (2.5 ha, image above) and le Plomb (1 ha); these two sites straddle the benchmark Grand cru caliber lieu dit les Grandes Places. When I say schist dominant, that’s all that there is, pure mother rock with zilcho topsoil. The full southern exposure, STEEP hillside, and pure mica-schist here are like a literal definition of the appellation’s namesake: the Roasted Slope. This is why Côte Rôtie is so revered for Syrah lovers, as the treble high acidities, savory and mineral tones, intensity of aromatics, and moderate alcohol found here is unique the world over. In general, the style of the house is particularly approachable: 100% destemmed, fermented in concrete vats, then aged in large Burgundy barrels 15% of which are replenished each year. The elevage is quite short, which renders the young wines quite fresh and primary, with an immediacy of dark fruits, violet floral intensity, and suavity of tannin being strengths.
With the prices of most wines of this caliber pushing at the upper limits of broader consumer comfort, the value proposition here is essentially unheard of. For the past few years, I have heard steady chatter about Cedric’s wines being of the most impressive values tasted at the annual Marche aux Vins d’Ampuis extravaganzas, featuring some 60 different estates. Ans so…what follows is an offering of the to-be-October bottled 2014s, to arrive in late November '15. I believe that both those new to Côte Rôtie and seasoned veterans would find much to celebrate here, for both the short and medium term (2-15 years). Along with Pierre Benetiere, Cedric may be the smallest independent bottling producer of the appellation. What can I say? I love to root for the little guy…
LE MENU:
2014 Cote Rotie Montmain $45 in 750ml, $89 in Magnum! - The 40% pitch of Montmain and its pure mother rock soil are quintessential Côte Brune territory, farmed by fellow producers Cusel Roch and Stephane Ogier, among others. On the Côte Rôtie map symbol coded by rock type, this parcel along with its southern neighbor les Grandes Places is one of the most mother rock dominated sites of the entire appellation. This was the parcel that his uncle cleared and replanted himself to create the estate. Approximately 500 cases are produced per year. I’ve included Josh Raynolds’ impression of the 2013, although based on various input (cellartracker too), I have a feeling that maybe Josh confused his review of the two wines. In '14, for example, the Montmain is more “approachable and fruit-driven” than the more tightly coiled le Plomb…
“Saturated ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry pit, cassis and licorice, with a suave floral overtone. On the palate, chewy dark berry and violet pastille flavors become spicier and livelier with air. Youthfully firm tannins give shape to the lingering smoky finish. Give this unevolved, slow-to-open but promising wine some bottle age.” 90+ points Josh Raynolds for the 2013 vintage, NOT THE '14 OFFERED HERE
2014 Cote Rotie le Plomb $45 in 750ml, $89 in Magnum! - The southern neighbor to les Grandes Places, le Plomb is a friendlier to farm high elevation plateau of sorts, most prestigiously known as a large holding for Jamet and Rostaing. This too is a mica-schist dominant site, with SSE exposure. I haven’t yet tasted this ‘14, but I do have reason believe that Raynolds’ reviews are exactly opposite, with this being the more implosive and structured of the two bottlings…it will be fun to compare them to decide for ourselves! This is a far smaller production, so please keep that in mind in making your requests. (I don’t know how much I will be able to secure…)
“Bright violet. Expansive, highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh black and blue fruits, potpourri and vanilla. Supple and sweet on the palate, offering intense dark berry liqueur flavors underscored by a smoky mineral quality. Much more approachable and fruit-driven than the Montmain bottling, finishing with excellent power and length and smooth, slow-building tannins.” 92 points Josh Raynolds for the 2013 vintage, NOT THE '14 OFFERED HERE
LES VOILA
I am delighted to bring Cedric’s wines to a broader audience stateside. Accessibility allied to understated authenticity is a rare quality in Côte Rôtie these days, especially at this kind of price point, something i’ve never really encountered…
Wines are offered here at these prices during a one week presell, after which pricing will rise 10-15%.
Upon confirmation, payment due in full via check, fee-free version of Paypal, or CC+%.
As always, with any questions or interests: rob@downtoearthwines.net
CHEERS TO CEDRIC, CONTINUING TO PUSH IT, INCREASINGLY GETTING HIS LONG OVERDUE RECOGNITION!!