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Bonjour d’un domaine du futur profondement raciné dans le passé,
A long ago planted seed surprisingly sprouted when Maxime Rion of Domaine Michele et Patrice Rion reached out to me during my recent Euro escapade, curious to explore the future possibilities that a few years ago seemed improbable. When I first visited with his family in Premeaux Prissey of the Cotes de Nuits, they were still inclined to wear the “national exclusivity” hat with a certain long standing artisanal American importer. Understanding their position, I nonetheless warned them that the American playing field is evolving quickly, and that I envisioned only increasing pressure on the archaic three tier system with the dinosaurs known as “national importers” being forced to either evolve to meet contemporary market dynamics or perish. My words and visit (not to mention my hairy mug) were not forgotten, with my warning becoming a reality far quicker than any of us had imagined…
Their holdings are flat out terrific, comprised of two principal branches: a southern Nuits St Georges core, with a host of Chambolle Musigny morsels to accompany. In singularity and intrigue, every single one of the climats that they farm/vinify offers unique character in spades. There is a particularly strong progressive spirit here, undoubtedly a calling card of Patrice’s long career. He has continually sought to refine and improve all aspects of wine growing process, from vineyard to the cellar, with a meticulous attention to detail and an open spirit of experimentation. He first applied this progressive vision in reestablishing his father’s domaine, Daniel Rion et Fils, in the 80s, propelling the estate to a never before seen, internationally celebrated level of quality. Then in 1990, he and his wife Michele created their own domaine in Premeaux, with complete independence from his father’s estate coming in 2000 with the creation of a cuverie and negociant branch, SARL Patrice Rion. Longstanding, stable contracts in Chambolle Musigny (in addition to those that they own) have allowed them to offer a marvelously diverse array of wines. Patrice’s esteem as a winemaker among his colleagues is second to none. Philippe Engel of Vosne Romanee once told Stuart “Beaunehead” Niemtzow, a longtime friend and supporter of the Rions, that “if Patrice had had the same vineyards the Engels had, Patrice would be considered Burgundy’s best winemaker. Period.”
With the arrival of Patrice’s son Maxime in 2005, this progressive spirit received an infusion of young generational lifeblood. After his studies in Meursault, Bordeaux, and New Zealand, he has incrementally assumed a leadership role in the estate with an attention to detail and forward evolving vision that is a continuation of his father’s legacy. A second state of the art cuverie was completed in 2014, whose solar paneled roof provides the entire domaine (including tractors!!) with 100% of their energy needs, with additional cold storage that allows fruit to be chilled prior to vinification come harvest time as/if needed. For the first time ever, I was shown samples of the bottled 2013 wines via Coravin (google it). Even the labels embody this forward-looking spirit, taking on a space-age-meets tradition aesthetic. Maxime’s own progressive strides reflect how the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, as they say… http://www.patricerion.com
In tasting through the 2013 collection, I was floored by the degree of precision and detail in the wines. A cool, long growing season of naturally low alcohol and full phenolic maturity characterize the vintage, affording delicate, precise, and hyper classic expressions of each climat. Maxime’s continued refinement and comfort at the helm has never been more evident, as the entire range is plain brilliant. Stylistically, the synthesis of using know how and technological precision to better lay naked the expression of terroir is masterful, a progressive future telling an ancient story. I dig it and then some…
I’ve included Allan Meadows’ notes on the ‘13s below. 2013 seems to be the best overall vintage that he has reviewed chez Patrice Rion in his few years of visiting the estate to review the wines. Good timing for us!! :0
Please note that this is a Nuits St Georges house FIRST, with the other appellations produced in far smaller quantities. I will have to give them a balanced order with broad support, so please do keep that in mind. I have a feeling that the Chambolles/Vougeot are going to end up being allocated, so preference will go to balanced orders that are in line with this reality. With how good their Nuits wines are, this is hardly an “eat your peas” situation, but people do tend to dis Nuits wines, even if they’re of this kind of rockin’ quality (note: Meadows scored the Nuits St Georges wines as high as the highest scoring Chambolle wines…fyi). Once you get to taste the NSG wines, you will see what I mean. All of that being said, tell me of your wishlists, and i’ll go to bat…
LE MENU:
Bourgogne Bons Batons - I am PSYCHED about the Bons Batons. One of the most prized parcels of Bourgogne level vineyard anywhere, from vines in front of Chambolle Musigny. The wines always show a red fruited succulence and airier drive to them that are clearly of Chambollean character. Along with Ghislaine Barthod’s Bon Batons, a personal fave. For value hounds, don’t say I didn’t tell 'ya!! Go big.
“A slightly more deeply pitched nose displays notes of soft earth, assorted red berries and a hint of dried flowers. Here too there is good energy and intensity to the richer and more concentrated flavors that exhibit a bit more depth on the equally rustic finale. This is more structured will benefit from a few years of bottle age. (86-88)/2017+”
Nuits St Georges 1er cru Terres Blanches blanc - The rare anomaly that is a Cotes de Nuits white wine gets ever rarer with the inclusion of 10% pinot blanc. From the top of the slope on very stony white soils, this has gorgeous middleweight plumpness driven by shaping mineral acidity. The pinot blanc dimension is aromatically complex, and texturally softening. If you enjoy richer textured white burgundy and are looking for the $35-40 range 1er cru overachiever crowd-pleaser extraordinaire, this is your wine.
“(90% chardonnay and the remainder in pinot blanc; the latter has the effect of lightening the mouth feel and adding a sense of freshness). Here too there is a top note of exotic fruit to the more complex and slightly more elegant aromas that are composed by notes of pear, apple, floral and discreet spice elements. There is fine richness and volume to the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel that also characterizes the vibrant, delicious and bracing finish. This refreshing effort should also drink well young. (89-91)/2017+”
Vougeot 1er cru les Cras - Like I said, every parcel is quite unique…from one of the 4 Vougeot 1er crus; yes, there is a town of Vougeot, with the vast majority of its vineyards being the Clos de Vougeot. and then there are four 1ers just north of the walls of the Clos, just below le Musigny. They do tend to be baby Clos de Vougeot like, in solid mineral core, mildly austere structured finish, and sense of depth of flavor. I didn’t get to taste this one, but it looks like Meadows found it en forme.
“An exceptionally pretty and once again ultra-fresh nose of primarily red pinot fruit is trimmed in notes of wood spice, earth and floral hints. There is ample minerality adding lift and a sense of refinement to the solidly intense and voluminous flavors that terminate in an ever-so-mildly austere finish where the supporting tannins are relatively fine. This should age well yet also be approachable on the younger side. (89-92)/2020+”
Chambolle Musigny villages les Cras - YES SIR! Some Chambolle Cras for me! Having an upper slope rockhead preference, I adore this very high toned, airy, austerely mineral quality in both the 1er cru and villages level portion of les Cras. This is from the villages level section of the vineyard which sits even higher on the slope than the 1er cru portion, as well as above les Fuees (another rockhead favorite of mine!). If Maxime would allow me, I’d buy A LOT of this. But likely quantities are going to be fairly limited. Heck, give me your best shot, and i’ll go to bat. That’s why they play the games…you never know.
"(from the villages portion of the vineyard). An exceptionally elegant and airy nose features notes of green tea, red pinot fruit and subtle wet stone nuances. The sense of refinement is enhanced by the lilting mouth feel and fine-grained tannins that shape the lighter weight but precise and chiseled middle weight flavors that also exude a saline-like character on the lingering, balanced and utterly delicious finale. (89 91)/2019+
Nuits St Georges 1er cru Clos des Argillieres - I first got turned onto NSG 1er Argillieres by Vincent Dureuil Janthial’s bottling years ago. It was one of my benchmark bottles of substance allied to value that people always complained don’t exist in Burgundy. Maxime’s '13 shows me the same face: more savory, deeper and broader in palate impact, with a darker fruit tone than the Chambolle. Quite harmonious and texturally fine for what can be more austere pastures. The Rion holdings are right next to Dureuil’s, on the northern end of the parcel. Enjoying bottles of '05 Dureuil Argillieres now, man are they good, with plenty in the tank. This '13 is destined for a similarly wonderful evolution, but is still polished and fine enough to give much pleasure sooner.
“Discreet but not invisible wood treatment sets off relatively high-toned aromas of cranberry, earth and raspberry with only a whisper of earth though I suspect that it will become more visible with age. There is a lovely texture to the delicious and appealingly dense medium weight flavors that deliver solid length on the robust but not really rustic or especially austere finish. This frank and direct effort should drink reasonably well young. (90-92)/2021+”
Nuits St Georges 1er cru Clos St Marc Monopole - The smallest of the Nuits St Georges monopole vineyards at a bit under a hectare, the Rions acquired this parcel in just 2006. I didn’t get to taste this bottling, but if it is even more impressive than the Argillieres, i’m psyched to get some. Meadows’ review sounds right up my alley. In years past, I had enjoyed this wine tremendously, one of those wines that makes me throw up my hands and say, “If this said Gevrey/Vosne on the label, people would be breaking down the winery door!”. In a 2012 comparative tasting of ALL of the NSG monopoles, Bill Nanson preferred the Rion and Arlot wines above all, hands down, for whatever that’s worth.
“Here too subtle wood treatment sets off more deeply pitched aromas of various dark berries, plum, violet and plenty of earth scents. There is fine richness, volume and intensity to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel, all wrapped in a complex, long and beautifully well-balanced where a hint of minerality adds interest. This is really very good and worth considering. (90-93)/2021+”
Chambolle Musigny 1er cru les Gruenchers - I’ve never tasted their Gruenchers, but with how consistent and pure literally everything that I did taste from '13, I imagine that this is going to delight.
Chambolle Musigny 1er cru les Charmes - Again, I didn’t get to taste this, but anytime that I can offer a Chambolle Charmes with its fuller broad shouldered profile that ends in rising airier perfume, I am a happy camper. Not to mention at this price point!!
“(from 65+ year old vines). While the expressive and layered nose of assorted red and dark berry fruit, violet, spice and floral elements is slightly riper it remains super fresh. There is more volume to the medium-bodied flavors where the supporting tannins are also relatively fine, all wrapped in an intense and seductively textured finish that displays lovely balance and persistence. This is very Charmes in character. (89-92)/2020+”
Chambolle Musigny 1er cru les Fuees - YES SIR!! Another personal pet favorite of mine, the upper slope parcel of les Fuees sits nestled between the southern limit of Bonnes Mares to the north and les Cras to the south. In spiciness, airy red fruits, and explosive mineral tension, it just tickles my fancy. I did get to taste this one, and it rocks. (no pun intended) Again, I will try to get as much as I can, but I fear it will be quite limited…
“Intensely floral top notes add elegance to the essence of red pit fruit and plum aromas. The sense of refinement continues onto the pungently mineral-driven medium weight flavors that exhibit terrific delineation on the textured finish that is shaped by firm but fine tannins on the lingering finish where a touch of wood surfaces. In a word, lovely. (90-92)/2021+”
Chambolle Musigny 1er cru les Amoureuses - I have never had a chance to taste some of the single barrel of les Amoureuses that they farm, but Maxime has promised me at least a wee smidge of it to be able to offer the full monty. Knowing how succulent and sexy the house style is, I can only imagine that this is going to be swoon worthy and then some.
“(from a small parcel measuring .16 ha). As it often is, this is the most elegant of these 1ers with a well-layered and attractively fresh combination of spicy red and blue pinot fruit, plum, violet and wet stone nuances that are trimmed in hints of sandalwood and exotic tea. The seductively rich, intense and beautifully precise medium weight flavors terminate in a dusty, firm and marvelously persistent finish that evidences just a touch of austerity. This classy effort should age well yet be approachable after only 4 to 5 years of bottle age. (91-93)/2023+”
LES VOILA
I am thrilled and honored to be entrusted with representing Maxime and his family’s work. They deserve a broader audience, which this offering is poised to do with a breadth and price point that these wines have not seen stateside in some time, if ever. I am sure that you will see for yourself exactly what i’ve been talking about: a house style of meticulous precision and purity, laying naked the classic expressions of each climat, always with a textural suavity and succulence that hits the pleasure spot. The timing couldn’t be better, as these '13s are the most complete collection that i’ve yet tasted chez Rion. Once again, the generational baton is passed…
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As always, with any quesitons or interests: rob@downtoearthwines.net
CHEERS TO MICHELE, PATRICE, MAXIME AND FAMILY!! TO A PROGRESSIVE FUTURE THAT HELPS US BETTER EXPRESS AND RESPECT THE ANCIENT!!!
Robert
ps- Here are some additional thoughts from Stuart about the Rion wines:
"I have a long track record with some of these wines, first buying Argillieres in 1985 vintage; Charmes around 1988 (it was new.) Patrice took both from Dom. Daniel with him. And, I started buying both the Chambolle Cras and Bons Batons with the 1990 vintage…and still have some I think. (And, I think really highly of the Clos St. Marc I’ve tasted…not much, but walked the vineyard with Patrice when he bought it).
The think I’d comfortably claim with the wines of Patrice Rion, having followed them since the 1983 vintage (I’m old) is that unlike many producers, the wines taste lovely young and in-between. Except for maybe 1995s they almost never shut down due to their concentration and finesse; they are never tannin or acid-bound (lovely '96s the guy made!). And, above all, they age in beauties as well as any estate: Patrice’s '88s are at peak; his '90s superb…and…when he has had grand cru to work with, they don’t need any help to impress as much as anyone’s. (He’s had CV, Echezaux at the Domaine; and Bonnes Mares that I know of.) In my experience, this continuous accessiblilty is rivaled by maybe Chevillon and the wines of Etienne deMontille after he replaced his father’s winemaking style. IMO, as sure of a bet at any age to open as anyone’s wines. And, that’s nice to know and be able to count on. (Most of which I’ve discovered by not aging them enough, but have almost never been disappointed by what I found in the bottle nevertheless.)"