Looking for a place to stay in Aosta, I found Locanda La Clusaz, in Gignon. This is a small hotel with a Michelin * restaurant. The price for a room with demi-pension (breakfast and dinner) was €67, or about US$71 at current exchange rates. The room is what they call ‘panoramic’, with views over the valley and mountains. It is their cheapest room, because it also overlooks the road. When I called, I was told that at this time of year it would not present a problem; during tourist season it can be noisy. For another €10, you get a ‘relax’ room, no view but quieter, and from a glimpse through an open door, slightly nicer decor.
This all sounded too good to be true… a Michelin * dinner for €67 is a reasonable price and they were throwing in the room and breakfast for free. The dinner consists of an amuse, followed by three courses, followed by dessert or cheese… no skimping.
It was not too good to be true. The room was simple but attractive, a good size and completely comfortable with all mod cons (including good wifi). The restaurant absolutely merits the Michelin star. The wine list is good and fairly priced, featuring of course the local wines (which was what I was there for) but also with a reasonable selection of Piedmont wines and a very extensive list of half bottles.
My third and last night, I was feeling rather gorged with fine food and wine and requested just a risotto and some local cheese. The risotto was outstanding. Here’s a pic of the local cheese. Host, sommelier, and maitre d’ Maurizio Grange served me a mere 18 selections, including three tommes from a farmer a mile away… the same cheese except at 2, 3 and 5 years old. I wish the surgeon who operated on my ankle was as good as Maurizio with the knives. Breakfast was an extremely high quality buffet (yoghurt also from local farmers). You juice your own oranges. They prepare eggs to order and produce a more extensive plate of charcuterie on request if the sensational local ham and sausage are not enough (they are).
Aosta is a drop-dead beautiful place, apparently not much visited even though it’s close to a lot of populated places… 3 hours from Lyon, 2 from Geneva, 2 from Milan, 1 and change from Turin. If anybody is acquainted with the writing of Ursula K. Leguin, I realized as soon as I saw Aosta that I had found Orsinia, even though Aosta is not Mitteleuropa. I cannot recommend Locanda La Clusaz highly enough. As if food, room and value were not enough, service was incredibly warm and attentive, extending to Maurizio researching some local wine producers for me.
Dan Kravitz
