97 Arrowood ‘Reserve Speciale’ Merlot [Sonoma] 13.5% abv. Acquired a few years ago, but condition/cork looked great, to wit:
I’d enjoyed a lot of Arrowood during the 1990-2001 era, but mostly the Cab, and had never found nor tried their top end Speciale merlot bottling, which I think only showed up near the tail end of that time frame. They only make a few hundred cases, so it may not have been sold at retail anyways. So I was happy to trip over a bottle some years back, and age 20 this seemed like an opportune time to try it. This is really good! I think most CA merlot isn’t worth the time/money to buy and cellar, but this one worked out well (even if someone else bore most of the waiting time). The label states unfined and unfiltered, but standing it up for a few days dealt with the sediment. There is some grit but its not crazy, and I didn’t bother with decanting. The back label states there is some cab franc in the blend, but its not specified. I get a bouquet of cocoa and peanuts, attributes that my nose identifies in good ripe merlot. There is still a smidge of tannin here, but its nearly all resolved, and it drinks very well on its own. Its the qualitative equivalent of a good right bank wine, but I think its different. It doesn’t have as much herbal, earthy notes that the comparable cepage Bordeaux would have. The finish remains fruity and lingers on the tongue for 30+ seconds. Maybe not a food wine, but its darn good. The label says its gets a heavy oak treatment, but its all soaked up by now. I’d give it an A-. If they still make this cuvee, I suspect its wearing a luxury price tag now, but maybe it’ll age just as well. This was not tired at all, not even on day 2. Terrific example of New World merlot. The bottle is tall and skinny, and also a pleasing brownish color.
Great wines those Reserve Speciale…cabs and merlot! I love drinking those bigger style merlots with age!
Thanks for the note, Arv!
Here’s a video interview with Mr Richard Arrowood (and Mr Phil Coturri) I just happened to have found a few minutes ago…