2012 Brunello di Montalcino, new releases Part I

Lots of thorny things inside this post, but I think they need to be said.

that said, here’s my introduction and a few notes from some of the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino.

“On 10-11 April of this year, for a total of about 11 1/2 hours at VinItaly, I tasted several hundred wines from Montalcino zone (not all were Brunello/DOCG, some were Rosso, etc.). Following VinItaly, I then spent three weeks in Montalcino zone performing visits (usually 2 per day, but sometimes three) to cellars/vineyards, meeting one-on-one with growers/agronomists, etc.; I’ve also tasted on my own, with bottles that were either samples or bottles I purchased solely out of curiosity. I’ve tasted a lot of 2012 Brunello wines, easily the lion’s share. That said, I’m looking forward to tasting the rest of them, too; there’s more to learn.”

2012 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino (HR) Tasted at the winery, from tank. This has been blended now, and is resting in steel tank. Great nose, very fresh, with perky red fruits and detailed purity. Each sip better than the one previous. Long finish, really nice structure. BUY. 15,5% abv. (resolved). Drink 2018-2030. highly recommended

2012 Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino (R+) {winery visit} Just what it should be at this point - excellent reflection of place and grape AND vintage. Nothing stylistic about this, just well-grown Sangiovese fruit that’s in a fairly precocious stage just now. It’s just a babe, you’ll need to hold this one for at least a year or two to allow for more integration. Given 2012s challenges, this is just what it should be, there’s nothing forced or contrived here, and it’s all quite good. Thru 2030. recommended+

2012 La Serena Brunello di Montalcino (R+) {Winery visit} From Coravin, I needed to let this blow off a touch of reduction. A few minutes later, bright aromas emerge, tending toward the darker red spectrum. A touch of fresh citrus, and even some apple skin hits the nose, I’m happy. I’ve got to give this some pretty vigorous swirling before it begins to show me much on the palate, but I really like what I see once it opens. An average amount of complexity at this stage, but the flavors are already running broad and deep - if you take your time with it. That said, if I had some, I would not touch any for 2-3 years - there’s (coiled) complexity here, and, to be sure, more flavor development to come. The quality at this address just gets better and better. HOLD. Thru 2031 recommended+

2012 Enzo Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino (HR) {winery visit} Crazy value proposition here. This is fairly approachable already (though I would give it 5 hours in decanter, but that’s me), with attractive lines and classic flavors and aromas. If you’re into (really!) traditional BdM, and you’ve yet to try this, get a six-pack, now. As always, great structure, a sense of place and grape. Drink 2018-2030. highly recommended

2012 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino (NR) Clean, medium-bodied, good balance, but lacks complexity at this point; not sure it’s ever going to develop. Pure, red-fruited, tannins nearly fully integrated. Seems like one to enjoy in its youth; good freshness still, though there’s a nagging sense that this isn’t going to be there forever; best in the near/mid-term, I think. Drink now thru 2025. I wanted to like it more than I actually did. Double-decanted one hour before serving, non-blind.

2012 Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie (R) A lot going on here. The nose is rather explosive, and equally complex, even at this early stage of development. The palate delivers what the nose suggests, plenty of rich, racy fruits that run the red and black spectrum. Others liked it more than I, but as there was a leathery, dusty and herbal character that seemed an undercurrent of sorts, I was able to find what I was after. That said, I think in 3-5 years, this could well be an even more enjoyable wine as some of the hidden nuances move closer to the center. I’d gladly have a glass, or two, again. Drink 2020-2035. recommended

continued on the blog The new releases of Brunello di Montalcino, 2012, Part 1 – ItalianWine.blog

thanks for looking

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You will be my ruin. I have emailed my local shop to see if they can get some these.
I always enjoy your reviews.

Great writeup Tim, love the site and the approach! Your notes give a good sense of the wine and couldn’t agree more on silly wine scores and vintage scores…

The Uccelliera was 15.5%!?!?! I’m surprised you liked it as much as your note indicates.

Tim,

Last week, I tasted about 40 Brunellos …

The best, for 2012 (18/20 standing for 95/100) :
Brunello di Montalcino : Mastrojanni - Vigna Loreto 2012 : 17,5/20+
Brunello di Montalcino : Baricci 2012 : 17,5/20
Brunello di Montalcino : Barbi - Vigna del Fiore 2012 : 18/20
Brunello di Montalcino : Il Poggione 2012 : 17
Brunello di Montalcino : Fuligni 2012 : 16,5/17
Brunello di Montalcino: Il Marroneto 2012 : 17,5
Brunello di Montalcino : Il Marroneto - Madonna delle Grazie 2012 : 17+ (wait, wait, wait)
Brunello di Montalcino : Biondi-Santi 2012 : 16,5
Brunello di Montalcino : Capanna 2012 : 17
Brunello di Montalcino : Lisini 2012 : 18
Brunello di Montalcino : L’Aietta 2012 : 17,5
Brunello di Montalcino : Le Potazzine Gorelli 2012 : 17
Brunello di Montalcino : Salvioni La Cerbaiola 2012 : 17
IGT Toscana : Case Basse, Soldera 2012 : 18,5 (the best one, the most expensive too)

Good wines :
Brunello di Montalcino : Tiezzi “Vigna Soccorso” 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : Le Chiuse di Sotto, Gianni Brunelli 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : Sanlorenzo 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : Le Chiuse 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : Collelceto 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : Cerbaiona 2012

Disappointment :
Brunello di Montalcino : Altesino “Montosoli” 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : La Gerla 2012
Brunello di Montalcino : Conti-Costanti 2012
Doubt :
Brunello di Montalcino : Poggio di Sotto 2012

Laurent, Can you elaborate about the Costanti? Considering the blockbuster the 2010 is, I am surprised that the 2012 disappointed.

I was a bit underwhelmed by the Constanti as well. It was missing something. Tasted last Friday:

2012 Costanti Brunello di Montalcino

Wanted to try a 12, I picked this up to share. Likeable red fruit and shaves of sweetmeats. To taste, it is quite accessible and has some velvet to go with exuberant red fruit. But both Berto and I prefer the true classicism of the 2010s and I’m not sure how long-lived this wine will be. Still, quite enjoyable and flexible with food.


Enjoyed your thoughts very much, Tim—I will flag to have a very thorough browse through the blog post soon.

sante,

Mike

We had a collective tasting, some people in the afternoon, others (me included) in the evening, 5 hours later.

38. Brunello di Montalcino : Conti-Costanti 2012
(100% Sangiovese Grosso)
Afernoon : DS? - CDC : corked - PS15,5 - AA : corked - NH : corked
corked for the majority of the group
Evening : DS14 - LG(?) - MS(15?)

LG is me : I find the wine very difficult to taste, lacking purity but not obviously corked : it is not very coherent but not demolished as a corked wine would be.
Another bottle is needed.

By the way, I liked the Riserva 2004 and the Riserva 2006 (but had a Riserva 2004 corked).

Glad to hear the comments on the La Serena 2012
I had picked up a couple bottles in North Jersey a few months ago.
$40
I already knew it was going to be put away for a couple years but now I guess it will be a few years +

Wine Spectator gave this one of it’s highest scores.

96

Uccelliera, along with Conti Costanti, were the producers that turned me on to Brunello. I’ve quit buying Uccelliera, though, as the wines are just too big for me when they are young. Maybe I will like them in 20 years, but then again, maybe not. The 2011 was 15%.

Edited for typos.

Thanks for posting this, Tim. Very helpful!

Rosso di Montalcino Stella di Campalto 2012 : 18,5/20 - january 2018
An exceptional sangiovese, complex, very long …

15.5%? Did I miss the part about “things that needed to be said”?

I love Uccelliera young (and wouldn’t think of it as a great candidate for long-term aging), and I prefer Conti Costanti with age. (The 2001 Costanti is gorgeous great right now, with the 2003 starting to drink very well too). I can see how some with a strong preference for “traditional” styled Brunello won’t enjoy Uccelliera, but I love it, in all it’s “bigness”.

Why the doubt on Poggio di Sotto?

It’s in the blog.

p.s. I have to say that I rather like the way Tim balances the desire for people to read his blog vs. ensuring there is enough genuine content posted here, that his post doesn’t come across as clickbait / spam. A fine balancing act for sure, and not everyone will agree with me, but I think it’s pitched just about right.

The report (by Cécile Debroas Castaigns - CDC) says :
20. Brunello di Montalcino : Poggio di Sotto 2012
(100% Sangiovese Grosso)
A l’ouverture : DS? - PR? - AA18 - NH16,5
Appréciation très difficile de cet échantillon pourtant construit, plein, rond, très mûr, au fruité rouge intense, mais bousculé par une acidité volatile des plus impertinentes. Grands écarts de notes obligatoires !
Après 5 heures d’aération : DSED - LG15 - CDC10 - MS16 - FM16,5

Another bottle is required, of course !