As some of you may already know, the Averys is a six generation family run wine merchant in Bristol, England that was found in 1793. On Thursday October 20th of last year, Christie’s London auctioned this landmark collection. The family cellar is in Bristol where summer high temperatures rarely gets above 70. According to the Christie’s wine department.
Four guys in DC area decided to actively participate in the auction. Luckily, we succeeded on acquiring 160 also bottles of very old wines. The wines are from the 20s to the early 70s.
Upon receiving them, I was pleasantly surprised by the excellent appearances. There was a mag of the 55 Avery Chambertin that was leaking which was not a terrible surprise. Most of the bottles had excellent fills and sound color. As old bottles go, no great wines, just great bottles. However, our chances of having the great experiences seemed to increase significantly.
The first two dinners were resounding success and they set the bar pretty high. The dinner was held at the private room of Mirabelle restaurant. This was the first time trying Chef Ruta’s new venture. Jennifer Knowles, the service and wine director, did an excellent job hosting use. The tasting menu was top notch and the wine service was exceptional.
Champagne
Both bottles showed well. The 96 Oeno was a bit more mature than usual.
-
1996 Dom Perignon Champagne Oenothèque - France, Champagne
Once again from RJ’s cellar and this seems to be a mature example, a significant bottle variation coming from the same case. Harmonious ripe nose displaying apple butter, lemon, shitake, oyster, candied ginger and oyster shell. Medium concentration, fine mousse, decadent red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity and a medium to long lemon curd and apple butter driven finish. Paul likes the mature expression but I am hoping for a bit more freshness. Riper than the previous bottles. (95 pts.) -
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé - France, Champagne
It is always fascinating to compare the regular size bottle to the magnum. The magnum drank in January, 2015 was quite tight and showed a lot of red fruits. This on the other hand is soft and round. Light pink and copper in color. Subtle nose displaying delicate pinot, strawberry water, raspberry juice, copper, rose and honey. Beautifully integrated palate, soft, warm and round, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long delicate strawberry and copper driven finish. Much softer and paler than the magnum. Really delicious and perfectly ready. (95 pts.)
White
It was a nice start. Both the 46 and 64 were slightly oxidized. The 46 drank like a Vin Jaune.
-
1943 Château Olivier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This bottle shows magnificently like the bottle drank earlier this year but even fresher. Harmonious nose displaying subtle yet incredibly sweet yellow fruits, fresh apricot, yellow peach, pineapple cooked with vanilla bean, honey, caramel, ginger, lanoline and light honey. Absolutely delicious palate, all in perfect harmony. The finish displays subtle round yellow fruits to die for. It gets better with air. Incredible complexity coming from ideal aging. Mind boggling. (97 pts.) -
1964 Averys Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Similar to the February bottle. Slightly advanced nose displaying apple juice, candied orange peel, copper, sweet spices, cumin, caramel and mineral. Medium concentration, deeply toned yellow fruit driven palate impression, strong acidity, good mineral presence and a medium finish. It needs earthy mushrooms like chanterelle, morel or shiitake. (91 pts.) -
1946 Averys Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
The color of Vin Jaune and the flavor to match. Oxidized apple, burn sugar, roasted chestnut, white flowers, cigarette ash and mineral. Excellent concentration, deeply toned, madeira, piecing acidity, good mineral presence and a long vin jaune like finish. It will be fascinating to serve with a bresse chicken with morel, cream and vin jaune dish or simply with aged comte. Also perhaps slow Adouze for 24 hours or longer. (88 pts.)
Remoissenet
Unfortunately both were madeirized.
-
1955 Remoissenet Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Sur les Grèves - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
A hint of Madeira, VA and soy. Dense ripe black fruit,fruit cake, a hint of crushed black pepper, possibly syrah added? Unfortunately it is too murky to tell. At least excellent concentration. NR (flawed) -
1959 Remoissenet Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
A hint of Madeira, sweet dry red fruits, cherry, strawberry jam, earth, a hint of VA and cedar. Excellent concentration and a short to medium earthy finish. Pretty straightforward but good concentration. Some thought that possibly doctored. I think 100% pinot that is simply showing oxidation. If 100% correct, this should be a solid village wine meriting 90 pts. NR (flawed)
Avery
The 55 was tired but the 72 Mazis was excellent as usual.
-
1955 Averys Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Sour cherry, dry cherry, vinegar and soy pickled garlic, truffle, a hint of madeira and earth. Good concentration. Once again, slightly madeirized. NR (flawed) -
1972 Averys Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Expressive and youthful nose displaying decadent red fruits, strawberry jam, cherry liqueur, licorice, cedar, sous bois, ash, raw button mushroom and earth. Excellent concentration, round and dense sweet red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and a medium to long sweet red fruit and mineral driven finish. Although not terribly complex, the concentrated sweet red fruit makes the wine very pleasurable. One of the best purchases from the Avery auction. (95 pts.)
Vogue Musginy
The nose was shy but the palate was incredibly sweet.
-
1961 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
In half bottle with high ullage. Beautiful bright ruby. Subtle nose displaying shy red fruits, strawberry jam, cherry jam, caramel, smoked oyster, oyster shell and limestone. Excellent concentration, very rich, dense and round, exceptional sweetness, strong mineral presence, good acidity and a long sweet red fruit and oyster shell driven finish. 92 point nose and 97 point palate. Not as expressive as the last bottle. (95 pts.)
Vogue
I bet both could have been incredible if not madeirized.
-
1953 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Subtle red fruit, raspberry jelly, dry cherry, caramel, white chocolate, black pepper and cedar. Fully integrated sweet palate, bright acidity, a hint of VA and a medium finish. 88 point nose, 96 point palate. (92 pts.) -
1955 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Brilliant ruby. Unfortunately noticeable VA. Shy sweet red fruit, apple vinegar, apple cider, mushroom, caramel and cedar. Exceptional concentration and incredibly sweet palate. Defective nose, 96 point palate. NR (flawed)
Old Bordeaux
-
1928 Château d’Arcins - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
Jennifer, the wine director, warned that the cork was not sealed. She is absolutely right, VA, volatile acidity, juice. NR (flawed)
Ausone
It was a solid wine. I suspect it was picked a bit early or the grape selection wasn’t too rigorous.
-
1948 Château Ausone - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Beautiful fully mature nose displaying sweet red fruit, a hint of unripe green even after almost seventy years, caramel, cedar and Korean pepper sauce (gochujang). Beautiful fully mature palate, still a hint of tannins, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long sweet finish with a hint of tannins at the end. I suspect this was picked a bit early. (95 pts.)
'49 Bordeaux
Surprisingly the 49 La Croix de Gay showed incredibly well. The other two were over the hill.
-
1949 Château Talbot - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
The color has faded and looks fragile. A hint of saltiness and smokiness remind me Japanese dashi broth. Also noticeable VA. NR (flawed) -
1949 Château Beychevelle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Expressive nose displaying cassis, fruit cake, tobacco, fruit cake, a hint of VA and Madeira that are distracting. Excellent concentration, intense dark fruit and fruit cake, bright acidity and the finish clips due to the oxidation. NR (flawed) -
1949 Château La Croix de Gay - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Beautifully mature old claret nose, subtle sweet red fruits, raspberry jam, plum, cedar, caramel, wet tobacco and leather. Fully integrated palate, round and silky, exceptional sweetness, good acidity and mineral, and a lovely long seamless finish. Excellent showing. I love old clarets so my point may be a point or two higher. A great surprise. (96 pts.)
'61 Bordeaux
The Cissac should have been drunk a long time ago.
-
1961 Château Cissac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
Very fresh example. Bright but simple red fruits, cherry, mineral and earth. Good concentration, sweet red fruit and a short bitter finish. A simple village wine that should have been drunk in the first ten years. (88 pts.) -
1961 Château Bel-Air - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux
Even in 1961, the property was able to make slightly unripe wine. Bright red fruit, ash, green pepper and mineral. Medium concentration, bright red fruit, mineral and ash, a hint of tannins and a medium finish. It is a bit straightforward but fresh and enjoyable. (92 pts.)
'57 GL
The color was good. I was hoping for a pleasant surprise in lieu or the magnum format. Oh well!
-
1957 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Top shoulder fill and excellent appearance. Ripe black fruit, cassis, asphalt, a hint of green, black pepper and VA. Good concentration, rustic tannins, good acidity and a medium finish. The nose is pretty straightforward and the palate is rustic and flat. Some thought undrinkable and nasty. (87 pts.)
'14 DRC
Despite of almost all the corks being firm and moist. the wines were mostly let down. Paul happened to have the 14 DRC Echezeaux and Grand Echezeaux in owc. I asked if we could cost share and Paul generously obliged.
Recent opened cases.
Two young brothers.
-
2014 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Expressive nose displaying crunch red and black fruits, crushed black berry, black cherry, a hint of strawberry and rhubarb tart, strong stem, crushed white pepper, a hint of Asian medicine, dark spices, lavender and limestone. Medium concentration, especially compare to the 14 GE served next, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long crushed blackberry and stem driven finish. Very expressive, 2/3 prefers it for the expressiveness. Very youthful, needs at least fifteen years to reach the youthful peak. I don’t think DRC wines shutdown hard, i.e. always reasonably expressive and enjoyable. (94 pts.) -
2014 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
The nose is very similar to the 14 Echezeaux, perhaps a bit less expressive. The palate however is significantly richer, greater fruit density and opulence, silky and oily, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long silky finish with blackberry and stem at the end. Not as expressive as the 14 Echezeaux, only 1/3 prefers it. Very youthful, needs at least fifteen years to reach the youthful peak. I don’t think DRC wines shutdown hard, i.e. always reasonably expressive and enjoyable. (95 pts.)
Coutet
It showed impressive concentration. Unfortunately over the hill.
-
1937 Château Coutet - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Unfortunately slightly madeirized. Apricot, Japanese plum wine, black tea, dark spices and VA. Deeply toned, rich, piecing acidity and a medium finish due to the Madeira note. NR (flawed)
It was educational and interesting. It demonstrated the “realistic” success rate of opening very old wines. Thanks to Paul’s generosity, we ended with a big bang!
Posted from CellarTracker