2014 Capçanes ‘Mas Donis’ Garnacha Blanca
Picked this up on a whim, quite inexpensive, from Montsant with 30% Macabeu. Never had a Garnacha blanca in the past that I recall. Fascinating wine, nicely restrained with stoney minerality, pithy citrics and real texture and fineness. Spritely, dry finish. Lovely integrated mouth feel, power without weight. Could become a staple in our house.
Thanks for the note. This is labeled as Garnacha Blanca? Interesting if there truly is 30% of the other variety blended in . . .
There is some Grenache Blanc planted in Australia, isn’t there?
Cheers!
Would be curious to try a Spanish grenache blanc. I haven’t been crazy about the Cali expression of the varietal, but I do tend to love Spanish whites of various varieties and blends. Maybe it’s the winemaking style, perhaps the climate, or just the different grapes.
I’m curious about what you have not liked about domestic versions of this variety?
I would say that we’re still someone in the infancy of this variety here, and defining what it is is not quite there yet.
Thanks for playing 
And you know me, I LOVE trying interesting varietals and LOVE seeing US wine growers and winemakers experiment so I still try it repeatedly to see different expressions and evolution of it.
My memories are not super detailed, to be honest, Larry. I do recall having one at Cornell Winery Tasting Room (made by a Central Cal producer) that had a simplistic fruitiness of melon and white grape with a slightly bitter citrus-rind finish that I was not fond of.
Another time, it seemed like an incomplete, imbalanced expression neither as complex and textured as roussanne nor marsanne, nor as crisp and light and clean as a sauv blanc or many italian whites. That leaves it in no mans land for me, with simplistic fruit and weight, and either no real interesting finish or a bitter one. I’ve tried it very chilled, cool, ambient room temp, and verging on lukewarm and in no case have I craved more.
In any case, it hasn’t impressed me yet, nor delighted me. Even when in a blend where it is the main variety, I suaully don’t love it. This is probably why I liked that Tablas Creek’s Cote and Esprit were often made with more Roussanne (Or combined Roussanne/Marsanne) than Grenache Blanc.
But I am always game to continue trying. And I will likely try it again at some point.
For now, Grenache Blanc just doesn’t hold a candle to the dynamics, body, ageability and value Central Cal Roussannes and Marsannes bring at half the price of a white rioja. Yep, I find Central Cal Roussannes and Marsanne remind me of some white riojas (despite varieties being different).
Which is also exactly why I want to see what these Spaniards are doing with Grenache Blanc, since they know it well. I tend to love what they do with white riojas and that’s one of the 9 grapes they can include, if I am not mistaken.
Not sure Larry about Australia - can’t recall ever seeing one. Plenty of Rousanne, Marsanne and even some Picpoul though. One would expect that there would be some planted as it seems like a variety that would do well here.
Kent, have you had a chance to compare Roussanne and Marsanne from France and the US to the Aussie stuff? If so, I’m curious whether you’ve noticed any differences?
Barry, I have never conducted a direct comparison.
Chateau Tahbilk make an excellent Marsanne that is a little one dimensional in its youth but really looks wonderful after a decade or two. It is quite fine when young.
There are some good Marsanne/Roussanne blends, such as John Duval’s from the Barossa, Yeringberg from Yarra Valley and Mitchelton used to make a beauty. Duval’s is a bit of a riper expression, but in general the wines seem to have good richness and weight, with good mouthfeel. However they are not varieties that i am exposed to very often and in a restaurant environment are a hard sell.
Having said that I have just received a case of Yangarra Rousanne from Mclaren Vale that comes with big raps, so I will bust a bottle this week.
The Chateau Tahbilk is available here at K&L! Bought one online. Will pick it up with my Carlisle Mourvedre next week! Thanks for the tip!
Good work Barry.
It is a screaming value. If it is to your liking I would recommend that you buy a couple more and bury them for a decade. You will be amazed at the transformation and additional complexity that the cellaring affords.
Actually Larry just labelled Blanca, allowing for the 70/30 blend. My bad!
If you liked this I’d suggest you check out Mas d’en Gil Priorat Coma Blanca it’s a 50/50 blend of Macabeu & Garnacha Blanca.
Thanks Kirk. Interesting, will keep an eye out. Can’t recall having a white from Priorat, do like the reds though. Hopefully it is available in Oz.
You read my mind.
Barry,
I certainly understand where you’re coming from, but I think you might be surprised. Anthony Yount makes a nice one under his Kinero label; Kris Curran is considered the 'queen ’ of the variety and has been working with the variety since 2001 or so; I think Tablas is doing great things with the variety; and I will also throw my hat in the ring. My 2014 has some of the richness of the other varieties you dig but has a higher level of acidity than the other varieties. If you have not tried it, you may want to . . .
As far as age ability of Marsanne and Roussanne, you know where I stand! Drink come over the first few years or laying down for a decade or more.
Cheers.
That certainly makes more sense! Bill perhaps the Spanish labeling laws are more lax then other places? Thanks for the clarification.
I would be surprised if it is not more heavily planted there in the near future. It crops pretty heavily and grows in nice warm climates.
One other thing about Spanish Garnacha Blancas - they tend to have a bitter edge due to the phenolic nature of the variety’s skin.
Cheers.
No bueno por mi.
If only I could read my wife’s…
Maybe, maybe not!