TN: Vietti Dinner with Luca Currado

VIETTI DINNER WITH LUCA CURRADO - Ai Fiori Restaurant in the Langham Place Hotel, NYC (6/13/2017)

This Nebbiolo group formed though the Vinous forum once again planned a great tasting. This time a vertical of Vietti wines. On somewhat of a lark, I invited Luca Currado to join us. It turned out he was going to be in the US at this time and was able to join us. This made for such a wonderful evening tasting these great wines made by Luca, his father Alfredo Currado, and his grandfather Mario Vietti. Luca’s commentary and passion added so much to this great evening.

The food and service at Ai Fiori was terrific. We even had a round 12-top in a private room just for our group.

For photos and more info, please see my website:
http://www.finewinegeek.com/tn/2017-06-13_NV_Vietti_Ai-Fiori/

Starters
Amuse Bouche: Pea purée with marcona almonds and mint.

  • NV David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L’Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
    I believe this was a gift from Eric’s boss in honor of his 40th birthday. It was much appreciated. Complex frothy lemon custard nose. Earthy palate still has a brightness to it. Great length. This was really impressive. (94 pts.)
  • 2015 Vietti Roero Arneis - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero
    Pop & pour. Crisp, blight nose. Fresh and delicious. A very food-friendly white with plenty of flavor. (89 pts.)

Flight 1: Barolo
Pancetta di Maiale: braised pork belly, charred spring onions, pickled hen of the woods, romesco.

This flight was supposed to be only the base Barolo, but the 82 Bussia was included because the labels of that era were so confusing.

  • 1954 Vietti Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 1pm.] What a special way to get the main event started. For me, a rare birth-year wine. For Luca, a wine made by his grandfather, Mario Vietti, that he had never tasted before. And the wine is beautiful. Subtle sour cherry nose. Sweet red fruit in the mouth with a hint of dirt on the long, elegant finish. Very special. Thanks Jamie! (94 pts.)
  • 1961 Vietti Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 1pm.] Unusual youthful color. Sweet red fruit up front. Sour cherry on the finish. Curious. I’m not sure this is authentic. NR (flawed)
  • 1967 Vietti Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 2pm.] Muted smoky red fruit nose. Juicy, youthful, and complex. Explodes on the palate. Just a great bottle of this wine. Glad I have 2 more from the same source. Went back to it later. Continues to open and expand. A great bottle! (96 pts.)
  • 1970 Vietti Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 1pm.] Mature, slightly sherried. Tasty, but on its way down hill. Drink up. (91 pts.)
  • 1982 Vietti Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted for 1.5 hours around 3pm.] Earthy, complex, red fruit nose. Gorgeous on the palate with plums and spice. Another complex wine from Alfredo Currado. (94 pts.)

Flight 2: Barbaresco Masseria
Agnolotti: braised veal parcels, pesto rosso, balsamic.

  • 1974 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    [Double decanted around 8am.] Soft, complex, another stunning wine at its peak. Just goes on and on. Wow. (96 pts.)
  • 1985 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    [Double decanted around 11am.] Soft sweet bright cherry fruit in the nose and the mouth. A delicious and interesting wine. (93 pts.)
  • 1989 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    [Double decanted around 8am.] Rich, powerful, complex, ripe. Just a classic 1989, powerful, structured, complex, and at this point still fairly young. Would benefit from another 5-10 years. (95 pts.)
  • 1990 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    [Double decanted around 10am.] Softer and sweeter than the 1989, but still has a fair amount of structure. Also quite youthful. Drink now-2025. (93 pts.)

Flight 3: Barolo Rocche
Tagliata: dry aged strip loin, pommes purée, spring onion, bordelaise.

  • 1978 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 2pm.] Gorgeous complex expansive. What a terrific wine from this great vintage. Long finish. (95 pts.)
  • 1985 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 1pm.] Muted nose, but expressive in the mouth with lots of sweet red fruit. Delicious to drink now. (93 pts.)
  • 1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 1pm.] Light sour cherry nose does not let on what power and flavor await. Simply stunning in the mouth. Expansive and complex with a finish that goes on forever. An OMG wine. Greatness right here. My WOTN. (98 pts.)
  • 2013 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Per Luca’s request, this received 2 hours of slow o shortly before the dinner. No decant.] Unbelievable young wine. Enormous structure and richness, yet an ethereal sense of lightness. What a future! (98 pts.)

Flight 4: Barolo Lazzarito plus the 2013 Ravera
Cheese Plate.

  • 1989 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted around 1pm.] Wonderfully perfumed. Expansive and stunning. Another great 89 with great upside potential. 95-?? (96 pts.)
  • 1998 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted for one hour around 9am.] Oaky nose. Dirty on the palate. I don’t think it is a good bottle. NR (flawed)
  • 2004 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double decanted for about 2.5 hours around 3pm.] Another stunning powerful wine. Our only wine in this tasting from the oughts shows how much these classic wines need a lot of time. This one needs at least a decade. 94-97 (95 pts.)
  • 2013 Vietti Barolo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Per Luca’s request, this received 2 hours of slow o shortly before the dinner. No decant.] Stunning perfume. Rich, powerful, ethereal. Just an incredible young wine. Hard to choose between this and the 2013 Rocche. This one has a bit more perfume, that one has a bit more structure. Both are potentially 100 point wines. (98 pts.)

What can I say? One of the most special tastings I’ve ever attended. Great food, great service, great wine, great friends, and the one and only Luca Currado, one of the world’s most expressive and passionate winemakers.

Posted from CellarTracker

curious about the 1961…i drank the last bottle they had at maialino this past winter. definitely seemed age appropriate and not at all what you describe.

Jamie brought it, and I think he was perplexed. He said it was from the same source as the 1954.

Great notes from a great dinner - thanks Ken

Sounds incredible! Thanks for the great notes, Ken…

+1

Ken
When you compare the Lazzarito vintages do you detect any stylistic change in wine making over the past two decades?

My understanding is that the late 1990s is when they used the most modern techniques. There was a debate on the 1998 here. Some thought it was just over-oaked. I thought it was also off in some way. I did not notice anything particularly modern about the 2004, or certainly the 1989.

Outstanding report Ken. Thanks much.

As David says, thanks very much Ken. Very interesting.