TNs: Hitting the Roumier and Mugnier exacta

Here are some brief notes on two recent “lesser” wines from two of the masters in Burgundy. Both bottles defied expectations and reminded me why Mugnier and Roumier have earned their lofty reputations.

Mugnier, Nuits St. Georges, Clos de Marechale, 1er cru, 2005: This is the first Marechale from Mugnier that I’ve truly enjoyed. (Bottles of 2008 and 2012 I’ve had were just too young and Bordeaux-like – austere, tannic and black-fruited.) I expected this to be in similar vein – another 2005 that is still young to drink – but the tannins have started to soften. There’s a layering of flavors beginning to reveal itself. It’s still a dark and structured wine but there’s a red-fruited and spicy quality that provides lift on the palate. Nice meaty perfume on the nose. Fresh and ripe, with a long life ahead of it. Side note: It would be instructive to drink this wine blind. I tend to dial down expectations when I sample this wine because it’s not a bottle from one of Mugnier’s more noble Chambolle vineyards. It’s not really fair to the very good quality in the bottle.

Roumier, Morey St. Denis, Clos de la Bussiere, 1er cru, 2013: Some weekend nights, you just have to go for it and open up a Roumier – even if you know it’s too early. But what a shock, this was – totally beguiling and open from the starting gun. Completely surprised me. I’ve always had a soft spot for this wine and more feral/funky/rustic versions of this bottling from the ‘90s helped give me the Burgundy bug back in the day. Pundits have rightly noted that the wine has become more polished and refined in the past decade. But this wine still displays the ebullience and underdog quality that I associate with good Morey St. Denis – it’s medium-full, upfront and loaded with blackberry and loam. The nose has a touch of smoke and stone, getting the salivary glands working in anticipation. The wine is long, with a chalky succulence. (I always get a kick when I read some of Jeremy Holmes’ notes and it’s almost like a trip to the dentist, with his description of a wine insinuating itself into every crevice of your teeth and gums. And this wine is like that – persistent!) Just a joy to drink a less lofty wine like this.

i’m still not convinced with either of these bottlings. the interesting thing is that virtually all retailers price them below chambolle village when in fact the true pricing for these wines is higher. also i’d probably rather take the mugnier village over the roumier…

i have tasted that Mugnier Clos de la Marechale few times. Although it has the deft touch of Mugnier it shows the earthiness of NSG and the darkish backward character of 2005 vintage. The 2006 was more enjoyable than the 2005 when we tried them together.

Mugniers Clos de la Marechale is made by Freddy Mugnier, but it is a true Nuits-St-Georges.
That means judging it (in a top-vintage) at age 12 is … well, at least unfair - and most probably a waste …
BTW: the Marechale vineyard is certainly “more noble” than Mugniers Village vineyards (even if a tiny part is from Premier cru …)

Gerhard, I was enjoying it, not judging it. And most certainly not a waste … deadhorse

Judging that a wine is good at age 12 is unfair? did you ever read his note or just open to look to criticize?

I think most of us can judge wine quality all along its evolution, from barrel to senility.

I think the 08 Marechale is more than ready to drink. Glad to hear the 05 is coming around.
Wish I had bought more 06s all around.

Just picked up two mags of the 2005 Marechale. Hoping to sit them for a decade and then be impressed. Have sampled both 2009 and 2013 and enjoyed them both.

Nice exacta Matthew.

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Drinkable perhaps, but if “more than ready to drink” means “mature” - oh no, far from that!
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(at least imho …)