1996 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (6/8/2017)
From a Moore Brothers purchase on release, stored perfectly ever since. I’m struggling to find words that describe the nose that can capture how powerful it was without being forceful…Jonathan closed his eyes and sighed “Ah La Morra!” The aromas were so plush, complex and abundant I wanted to snuggle down into them like a big comforter. Just gorgeous, resplendent with the signature violets, along with warm leather and spice. The perfect pleasure of great vintage nebbiolo when it is out of its shell and entering true maturity, but still exuberant. In the mouth, the structure fully supported the waves of dark fruit drawn together with near perfect acid balance. If it hadn’t been so elegant and sophisticated and intellectually compelling, I could easily have glugged this down like I did the Chiarli grasparossa lambrusco we had before it (there’s really no better pizza wine). God, what a treat it was to drink this wine. If it were a dress, it would be that one in your closet that makes you feel gorgeous and sexy, but is as comfortable as an old sweater. Beautiful, succulent, gives incredible pleasure right now, obviously, but with long life ahead. Very classy stuff.
Sounds a lot like the maker, Aldo Vajra…who insisted on both music and art in his winery…to comfort the wines and people. Of course, I was speaking French with him and didn’t understand him totally…but…this is exactly what would please him…a big comforter.
You are the expert. Funnily enough, not know for sure myself, and knowing for damn someone would probably point it out if it was wrong, I looked it up and found reputable websites saying both Barolo and La Morra. So I left it without footnoate. Nothing changes the fact that that is what Jonathan said.
So I just started buying from their distributor here. My rep and the Italian wine specialist there is someone I’ve known and respected for over 20 years. When I asked her who I should be looking at she quickly responded Vajra. Upper echelon producer in her opinion. I’ve since picked up the barbera and put its on my wine list.
Just pulling your leg. They have to draw the boundary somewhere, so it goes through Fossati which is next to Bricco delle Viole. Bricco delle Viole is along that ridge that leads into La Morra. It’s also a fairly high elevation, so it tends toward the ethereal and delicate, though in this case, that is balanced by the power in the vintage. Great people, wonderful wines. On the whole, continuing to get better while the prices stay fairly stable. Load up on the 2010 if you can find it.
Thanks Ken. Very interesting. I certainly thought this '96 showed the feminine qualities I normally associate with La Morra, so was happy to take him at his word! We love the wines and the family, always visit there when we’re in Piemonte. Funny story - I got a ticket on the highway and couldn’t figure out how to pay it, so I asked Francesca when we were at Vajra. She said she didn’t know, but her mom definitely would! Called her right up and we fixed the problem.
when La Morra is on it really has the most amazing aromatics in wine. I’m sure you could have just smelled that wine all night. (and I agree on the chiarli. great pizza wine).
Thanks for the 96 note. I only go back to 2004 but, ever since, Vajra is one my 2 or 3 favorite Barolo producers. They’ve been hitting it out the park from 2007 on too. An auto pilot buy for me.
Automatic buy for me too. I haven’t had one with this amount of age. I find that they can be quite delicious a couple years from release and hard to resist (I’ve already ripped through a bunch of 2009s). Sarah’s note will hopefully steel my resolve not to drink them all up so quickly and to tuck them away in the cellar where I can’t find them.
