Yea, you might think we’re nuts. Beaujolais is Coca-Cola wine, right? Hah. Not so fast, sonny, though on reflection, $75 is still a bit nutty.
Metras is a singular wine. I think stylistically it sorta transcends Beaujolais. It is Beaujolais, but then it’s different. I’m relatively new to this producer, so pardon me if I am profoundly wrong here, but there is a lightness of body, weighted by fragrance and ripeness of fruit unlike any other Beaujolais producer, and cut with a level of vicious acid, as to be entirely distinct. And then there is the color, sometimes a neon translucent ruby/strawberry, sometimes a brooding cloudy wine, suggesting possible spoilage or poor winemaking practices, other times an orange quality to it. I’ve heard of problems with consistency, bad lots, etc., but I have yet to experience anything other than an excellent wine.
Singular.
Think Levet. Think Rougeard. Think Sociando Mallet. Think d’Yquem.
I cannot recall who exactly introduced me to this wine, I think it was Jeb Singleton. It’s one of the three wines that Wine Berserker has brought to my attention, and that within a very short window of time, has come to dominate my “cellar” or my section devoted to that type of wine. Levet and Gonon are the other two.
The Metras basic Beaujolais is generally the play. Not cheap, but at $30-$40 it rivals most other competitors, if not in quality, then without a doubt in distinctiveness. The Fleurie is a step above, but at $50, it is admittedly pushing boundaries. I found the 2015 Fleurie VV worth every penny. Metras seems to do very well in these riper vintages.
The Ultime is the top cuvee. According to Crush, it is a “super-rare, extra-old-vines selection from Fleurie with particularly low yields, donating an even more significant dose of structure and tannin as well as a deeper fruit/earth concentration”. Hmm, I’ll try it, especially since my buddy Levenberg seems to rave about it, generally.
Well, this 2014 Metras Ultime does not actually live up to all that hype, or price, but it’s damn good. Nay, it’s excellent, say 91-92+ points. The 2015 Fleurie smacks it down, but 2015 is a riper vintage. There is also a sense that this wine needs time, it’s got a sense of openness given the ripeness that Metras achieves with his fruit, notwithstanding the low alcohol, but there is a little tannic presence and shortness/tightness of finish, suggesting time will allow this wine to blossom more. Wild strawberries, rhubarb, red raspberries, cherries. Spice, herbs, cloves. Citrus notes, blood orange peal. Crushed river stones. Always love the little bit of citrus I pick up in Metras.
Excellent. Love it. Cannot say it’s worth the price in this vintage.