TN: 2014 Yvon Métras Fleurie L'Ultime - Huh, $75 bucks for a stinkin' Beaujolais!?

Yea, you might think we’re nuts. Beaujolais is Coca-Cola wine, right? Hah. Not so fast, sonny, though on reflection, $75 is still a bit nutty.

Metras is a singular wine. I think stylistically it sorta transcends Beaujolais. It is Beaujolais, but then it’s different. I’m relatively new to this producer, so pardon me if I am profoundly wrong here, but there is a lightness of body, weighted by fragrance and ripeness of fruit unlike any other Beaujolais producer, and cut with a level of vicious acid, as to be entirely distinct. And then there is the color, sometimes a neon translucent ruby/strawberry, sometimes a brooding cloudy wine, suggesting possible spoilage or poor winemaking practices, other times an orange quality to it. I’ve heard of problems with consistency, bad lots, etc., but I have yet to experience anything other than an excellent wine.

Singular.

Think Levet. Think Rougeard. Think Sociando Mallet. Think d’Yquem.

I cannot recall who exactly introduced me to this wine, I think it was Jeb Singleton. It’s one of the three wines that Wine Berserker has brought to my attention, and that within a very short window of time, has come to dominate my “cellar” or my section devoted to that type of wine. Levet and Gonon are the other two.

The Metras basic Beaujolais is generally the play. Not cheap, but at $30-$40 it rivals most other competitors, if not in quality, then without a doubt in distinctiveness. The Fleurie is a step above, but at $50, it is admittedly pushing boundaries. I found the 2015 Fleurie VV worth every penny. Metras seems to do very well in these riper vintages.

The Ultime is the top cuvee. According to Crush, it is a “super-rare, extra-old-vines selection from Fleurie with particularly low yields, donating an even more significant dose of structure and tannin as well as a deeper fruit/earth concentration”. Hmm, I’ll try it, especially since my buddy Levenberg seems to rave about it, generally.

Well, this 2014 Metras Ultime does not actually live up to all that hype, or price, but it’s damn good. Nay, it’s excellent, say 91-92+ points. The 2015 Fleurie smacks it down, but 2015 is a riper vintage. There is also a sense that this wine needs time, it’s got a sense of openness given the ripeness that Metras achieves with his fruit, notwithstanding the low alcohol, but there is a little tannic presence and shortness/tightness of finish, suggesting time will allow this wine to blossom more. Wild strawberries, rhubarb, red raspberries, cherries. Spice, herbs, cloves. Citrus notes, blood orange peal. Crushed river stones. Always love the little bit of citrus I pick up in Metras.

Excellent. Love it. Cannot say it’s worth the price in this vintage.

i have had the ultime on many ocassions both in france and stateside but have yet to be impressed by it. on the other hand the 3.14 from foillard always delivers. however no beaujolais is worth $50 let alone $75.
also the favorite metras wine i have tasted is the cuvee bijou made by his son jules and priced very appropriately at around 19 euro. it is much cleaner and less volatile than the wines of yvon.

Well, it’s funny you mention that 3.14, as I almost pulled the 2009 tonight. Could be one of the better Beaujolais that I’ve had, and perhaps the only one that is worth that $50+ ticket. Not sure of current pricing, but I will buy the 2014 once released.

Thanks for sharing that, Robert. I had the Metras Fleurie VV last month, paid $60 and it was amazing.

I have 4 bottles coming, thanks for the note. my price was less under $65

I drank one of these and was underwhelmed, seemed just like the “regular” 2014 Fleurie but with more green.

Should add I paid $60 before shipping.

The 2015 is staggeringly good.

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Robert … do you literally mean “vicious acid” as a marker? Might give me flashbacks …

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I bought one bottle just to say I have it, but would rather drink oodles of the Fleurie. The Moulin-a-Vent is quite good too. Very carbonic, lifted. There are just some winemakers who just have this elegant, light touch with these wines. I blame Michael Lewis for exposing me to Metras (ugh, and Ganevat, and L’Anglore and oh the list goes on…).

I had the '14 Ultime in France earlier this year. It was a pretty wine (though fairly volatile) but not my fav. vintage of Ultime. Ours got better as the night progressed but more squirrely than I’d expect for a young vintage of this. I’d like to check the '14 out down the road and hope for a little more…

I had a 750ML of 3.14 in late Jan. that I found a bit tired and falling apart (could have been storage- It was the last bottle at a restaurant), but last fall we popped 1.5L of '09 3.14 – It was mind bending and also one of the best Beaujolais I’ve had. In general, I’m not really a fan of '09s but damn, that one was goooooooood.

however no beaujolais is worth $50 let alone $75.

One can make that case for any wine. Not sure why BJ is inherently worse than anything else. Try some with a bit of age.

I don’t know. Sounds like a cult Bo-jo to me. And that’s a bad thing.

+1
Thanks, Robert. Big Metras fan. Never had this one. Pretty happy with what he delivers at half the price!

We got to try the 2014 Metras Fleurie Cuvee Printemps a couple weeks back, courtesy of that world class biker (and drinker), Monsieur Trimpi.

I liked it a lot - in fact, it may be the best bottle of Beaujolais I’ve ever tried. That said, I couldn’t imagine paying $50+ for it. [cheers.gif]

I remember the days of vicious acid. I always had so many apologies to make the next day.

BTW, I am proud to say my cellar is, and shall remain, gamay-free

Robert, when Beaujolais is on, this is how it is to me. Nice note on a nice find, I haven’t had this product yet… Must seek.

I still owe you a call…

I consistently prefer Foillard over Metras.

Metras is so hard for me to wrap my finger around…the wines veer from stunning, beautiful & breathtakingly profound to confusing, questionable, & outright bizarre. Examples falling into the former keep me a buyer.

Should also add that it seems like Metras does better in riper vintages.

Swing by any time you are taking the kid to golf lessons around here, I will let you take one to try.

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Ok, this Metras Ultime is showing even better today, which is atypical for me on Beaujolais. Had a 1/3 bottle left from last night. It’s wide open. Still hard to justify at 2.5x over the basic cru, but glad to have tried it. It’s pretty damn good!