TN: Wines of Sicily

WINES OF SICILY - Jeff K.'s (5/24/2017)

Last night our tasting group met to try wines from Sicily. This was the groups first foray into the island so we did not limit based on geography or varietal or anything else. Of course, that has issues as there are so many styles and grapes. Yet, it was in interesting tasting and perhaps in the future we will revisit with more specific criteria. The wines were pop and poured and served blind over the course of a few hours. Breads and cheeses were served. The group was overall pretty consistent but there were a few exceptions.

  • 2013 Vivera Etna Bianco Salisire - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
    I really liked this wine. 100% Carricante. Light golden in color. The nose is intriguing with slight petrol, hay and limes. On the palate, a slightly oily texture. Minerals and burnt orange notes. Nice finish. Seemed like it had decent acidity. $20, it would make a nice summer sipper for sure. Not sure how it ages, but I would like to try a younger version. (90 pts.)


  • 2013 Arianna Occhipinti Sicilia SP68 Nero d’Avola e Frappato - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
    I liked this more than the group seemed to. Light red in color, clear and bright. The nose has slight smoke, with light cherries. On the palate, there is a tart acidity. Cherries and dark cherries. Light tannins. Long finish with a bit of fennel. (88 pts.)
  • 2013 Graci Etna Arcuria - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
    Sadly this was corked. The nose was all TCA. It seemed like underneath was a bigger wine that had lots of potential but I wasn’t having anything more than a sip. A shame. NR (flawed)
  • 2014 Graci Etna Rosso - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
    Dark ruby in color. The nose has a lot of cherry cough syrup. Its ok but not great. On the palate, this is quite tannic. The cherry cough syrup carries thru. A long finish. An interesting win and while I would not spill it out, it fails to really impress either. (87 pts.)
  • 2008 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Mille e una notte - Italy, Sicily, Contessa Entellina
    This was the groups WOTN (not mine) and it is very good. Mostly Nero D’avola. Purple in color. The nose has spice, dark cherries, black raspberries and bit of eucalyptus. On the palate, there are a lot of boysenberries. Turns a bit tart on the finish. This is a big fruity wine which some had issues with. For most though, it stood out. Also the most expensive wine at $80. (90 pts.)
  • 2012 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
    Ruby in color, clear and bright. The nose is nice but light with cherries and some spice. More complex on the palate with cherries, smoke and some anise especially on the finish. Medium tannins. Some complexity. Drinking well, no signs of age but I don’t know how this will age. Very interesting. (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Calabretta Nerello Mascalese Sicilia Vigne Vecchie - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
    Deep ruby in color. The nose has sandalwood, spice and some cherries. On the palate, this drinks easy. Black cherry fruit with some spice. Finishes slightly hot but overall a very nice wine for $24. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Firriato Sicilia Altavilla Della Corte - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
    This was my WOTN and the groups #2. this is a Cabernet Sauvignon. Purple ruby in color. There seemed to be some trapped CO2 that blew off in the glass. The nose has cassis and black cherries. On the palate, this has some sweet black cherry fruit. It is delicious but not a ton of complexity (at least at this point). Wide with good acidity as well. I would like to revisit as I wonder if this was just bigger and a bit sweeter in the crowd or really as good as I thought on its own. In any event, it did not seem international in style but a unique take. (92 pts.)
  • 2014 Azienda Agricola Cos Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico - Italy, Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
    Purple/ruby in color. The nose is sweaty with cherries and spice. With air a slight barnyard emerges. On the palate, black cherry fruit. Good acidity. Consistent throughout. Nice finish. (88 pts.)
  • NV Tinazzi Vinum Italicum N.3 Opera - Italy, Vino da Tavola
    Purple/ruby in the glass. The nose is slightly earthy with black cherries. On the palate, drying tannins. Black cherry fruit. It is an odd blend of Corvina, Primitivo and Nero D’avola to celebrate Italy north to south. $25, a solid interesting wine. (89 pts.)
  • 2015 Calea - Italy
    This was $8 and made from Nero D’avola. That said, it got 2 first place votes and one second. While it didn’t do it for me, for $8, it is worth trying. Ruby/purple in color. The nose has cherries, spice and slight mint. On the palate, cherries and black cherries. No faults here. Just not enough of anything for my tastes but certainly drinkable. (86 pts.)
  • 2014 Azienda Agricola Cos Vittoria Pithos Rosso - Italy, Sicily, Vittoria DOC
    What is going on here? This can’t be a proper bottle. Ruby in color, very cloudy. The nose has VA but also a sugary note and little fruit. On the palate sweet and cloying but non descript fruit. NR (flawed)
  • 2013 Vivera Sicilia Terra dei Sogni - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
    Purple ruby in color. The nose is dusty with cherries, spice and chocolate notes. On the palate, light cherries, more chocolate and spice. A blend of Cab and Nerello Cappuccio (?). Some complexity. Good acidity. Nice finish. $16, this is an excellent value. (90 pts.)

In the background we listened as the Tribe and the Cavs both won. Some interesting wines but I am not sure how many, it at all, I will be buying. Actually, the white would be the most likely if I can find it locally for a current vintage and reasonable price. Thanks to Jeff for hosting. Good times.
Posted from CellarTracker

Nice notes…always a fan of the Passopisciaro and Calabretta.

Well, if you’re ever in the area, I have the 2009 of this. Carricante can age well. Late last year I had a 2006 (10 year old) one from a different producer that was showing signs of age, but still quite delicious.

2013 Arianna Occhipinti Sicilia SP68 Nero d’Avola e Frappato - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
I liked this more than the group seemed to. Light red in color, clear and bright. The nose has slight smoke, with light cherries. On the palate, there is a tart acidity. Cherries and dark cherries. Light tannins. Long finish with a bit of fennel. (88 pts.)

From my limited experience, Occhipinti’s Nero’s can be very light. I don’t mind that, but they are different. Overall, I prefer the 100% Frappato, both from this label and her lower-priced Tami label.

Btw, all these wines are available at retail in Ohio?

I really like the Passopisciaro, very unique wine, combines lightness and force in an intriguing way.

I once made a beef burgundy with a bottle of it and it was terrific, you could taste the difference.

We had these three at our LBTG dinner on Monday. Rebecca thought they were outstanding. I think she liked them better than the 1999 Gaja Barbaresco flight. I thought they were excellent. Some extra complexity with the age. Before the erveal, many of us thought these were Supertuscan blends because of the multiple flavors, but there was something unmistakably Italian about them. And earthy character without being raw and without tasting like the corral at a Cordier winery.

2005 Gulfi Nero d’Avola Nerobufaleffj
2005 Gulfi Nero d’Avola Nerosanlore
2005 Gulfi Nero d’Avola Neromaccarj

I’m a big fan of the Calabretta, and generally score it (and specifically the 2006) in the 93-94 range, with the note above sounding about right. I like the Passopisciaro as well (and generally rate it in the 90-91 point range). For me, the Passopisciaro is a simpler, more fruit-driven wine, while the Calabretta is more exotic and shows more savory and spice (sandalwood, anise, balsamic, leather) to compliment the tart-cherry fruit. The Calabretta comes “pre-aged” (i.e. is always late released after what I assume is lengthy barrel aging) and has a fair amount of developed/mature character (but occasionally a hint of brett as well, for those who are brett-intolerant). I buy and drink both wines, but I purchase the Calabretta in quantity each year and consider it one of my go-to dinner wines. Both wines have particularly good acidity…I would characterize Passopisciaro primary fruit as being in the Gamay-Pinot range, while the Calabretta is much more in the Sangiovese ballpark (with perhaps some Nebbiolo-like savory characteristics).

No comment. [whistle.gif]

I’m a big fan of Passopisciaro and Occhipinti.