RIP Georges Vernay

May the wine loving world raise a collective glass to the love and legacy of Georges Vernay, the class and salvation of wine growing Condrieu. He was 92.

We had some aged Vernay a few years ago, it was awesome. He was a great winemaker, but unfortunately I do not know anything else about him.

A nice man with magnificent eyebrows.

When I lived in Geneva, I used to buy his straight Viognier in five case lots. He tried desperately to sell me his Condrieu, but I preferred his lower alcohol wines, beautifully balanced and unpretentious. Come to think of it, not a bad description of Georges himself.

As I understand it, after WWII, farmers had pretty much abandoned farming the steep slopes of Condrieu for grape farming. The trend was moving towards orchard fruit growing in more hospitable terrain, as it was easier and fetched greater prices than grapes. Georges fiercely believed in the raw qualitative greatness of Viognier on the steep terraced hillside vs the flats, in spite of the economic climate of the moment. In his commitment to the unique identity and quality of Condrieu, he guided the village to AOC status (there was no Condrieu appellation before him, everything just labelled “Viognier”), and to a flourishing rediscovery and economic stability for his hometown.
There are many reasons why I always say: there is Condrieu, and there is Vernay.
His wines, just as his legacy, stands apart.
If you have not yet discovered why the house touch is so very special, now is as good a time as any to do so.
TO GEORGES AND THE INIMITABLE BEAUTY OF CONDRIEU!!! SANTÉ!!!

Here is a direct Google Translate of the obituary published in French in Terre du Vins:

Georges Vernay, 92 years, has gone in other more celestial vines. Pioneer and visionary, he was at the origin of the renewal of the appellation which counted only 7 hectares in 1960. President of the appellation for 30 years, it has restored its letters of nobility to one of the largest appellations Of whites from the Hexagon.

Georges Vernay only cared about improving the quality of wines. He was concerned with perfection first in the vineyards thanks to a perfect knowledge of his plots, and in the cellar to translate with ever more emotion the expression of the vintage in his wines, all in finesse. He knew how to inculcate this passion to his daughter Christine who, after a first career as a teacher of French and Italian, came back in 1996 to take care of the “Domaine Georges Vernay” became an internationally recognized brand. Georges must have thought of resting, and the estate should not be allowed to be sold. Christine joined the Rhone vineyards with her husband, Paul, abandoning Parisian life. 1996 was also the date of the revision of the area that excluded the vines above 300 m altitude to keep only the best exposed hillsides.

Passing on his passion for viognier

Thus grew the estate created by Francis, George’s father, at the foot of the Vernon hillside, with some viognier plants that were so enjoyable on the granite soils. At the time, it was not yet an AOC wine (the appellation dates from 1940), just what was called between the two wars, a “coffee wine” and the family lived mostly fruit trees . At the beginning, Georges worked at the factory before taking over the reins of the estate in 1953. He replanted the hillsides while limiting yields to 40 hl / ha despite the demand of chefs like Fernand Point and André Pic who wanted more and more This white growing on the steep slopes above the Rhone. In 1960, there were only 6 ha of vines in Condrieu, in 1986, 20 ha, 60 in 1990, and now 192 in production. Georges Vernay has passed on his passion for viognier to a whole new generation of winegrowers. Before passing his hand to his daughter, he had managed to export his wines across the Atlantic without speaking a word of English, and had even been crowned best winemaker of the year 1995 by The Viognier Guild. The Vernay estate today on 17 ha of which 7 in Condrieu, is still famous for its viogniers including the historic Coteau de Vernon, Les Chaillées de l’Enfer and Les Terrasses de l’Empire, but also for its reds on the Côte Rôtie (3 ha), Blonde du Seigneur and Maison Rouge, and Saint Joseph (1.5 ha) developed by Christine.

Note: We have a commercial relationship with Domaine Georges Vernay

Sad to hear.

The guy restored Condrieu to the map of appellations and marketed it to the world. If you visit the terraced vineyards…you get dizzy, they are so steep. Hardly easy work.

Before his son, Daniel, brought a bunch of older Condrieus (Cot. de Vernon) on a Rhone vignerons tour to the states in spring 1996, I had never liked Condrieu. But, I realized its potential and complexity from then on. I’m not sure I’d like all Condrieus, in fact.

The guy had a wry sense of humor, too. In summer 1996, after bumping into Clive Coates at Jean Luc Colombo’s in Cornas (Colombo used to consult for Vernay’s red winemaking) and having lunch with them, Jean Luc invited me and a couple of friends to the Vernays for “dinner” and tasting. Madame Vernay lavishly put out local cheeses, breads and sausages and charcuterie. When I said “Jeez, do you people eat any vegetables around here”., he disappeared for a few minutes and then stuck a jar of homemade cornichon (pickles) in front of me…and said “this is all we need.” Everyone, including me, had a long hearty laugh.

Glad he has his daughter and son in law to continue the nice tradition he established. Their viogniers…are
all amazing wines for what they are. Not at all cheap, but…amazing wines which are very versatile at the table (In fact, his Condrieu is, for me, the perfect match for Maine lobster and butter; I reaffirm that belief at least a couple times a year.)

Yes it was.

I had the pleasure of working the in cellar at Domaine Vernay this past year.

The Animal lovers may enjoy a picture of the stray vineyard cat named after the celebrated vigneron.
Meet George, the cat:




Others may enjoy the view of the rhone valley as seen from the top of the coteaux at the cellar

i just recently bought some Vernay viognier. Grailey’s lined up some bottles for a tasting, and it blew me away. Extraordinary juice. Best viognier I’ve had.