Thanks to all who suggested aupres du clocher. Had a great meal there on Sunday night. Food was very good, though not on the light side and the wine list was full of gems. We ended up going for a fabulous 2006 Dujac Echezeaux. Ethereal, haunting perfume of red fruits, cherries and spices. So elegant. Gained weight and length as the evening went by. Hitting its early peak.
The next day we visited Bachelet, Roumier, Mugneret Gibourg and Pataille to taste through the 2015s. Don’t have the time to write a lengthy write up but a few highlights:
Bachelet: hit a homerun in 2015. Got upset when we mentioned 2015 weather and its potential impact on acidities (or lack thereof). Emphasised that his vines went through hydric stress in the summer so wines actually didn’t ripen as much as one could think. His son is now very involved in the domaine and has himself had a son so Denis feels that Domaine’s future is secure. He also mentioned how much eastern interest he was getting those days, with visit after visit from HK, Thailand, China, Russia,… I thought that the 2015 Charmes and Cote de Nuits in particular were both tremendous successes. He mentioned he had barrel issues with the 2010/2011 vintages which may have had an impact on his wines and led him to change barrel supplier.
Roumier: Harvested actually pretty late (11th September 2015) as he felt tannins of his grapes weren’t ripe enough before that. He’s produced fantastic 2015s. I thought that the Ruchottes is really very good this year (better than other vintages) and the other wines were predictably stunning, with the exception of the Chambolle that felt very grumpy on that day. He’s recently picked up 0,5ha of Bonnes Mares and some Echezeaux in metayage, which is really good news.
Mugneret Gibourg: how nice and interesting the sisters are. They took the opposite approach to Roumier and harvested very early (1st Sept). Glorious wines. The Vougeot did best, showing more spice and class than Ruchottes (more power there). Marie-Andree felt that Vougeot was under appreciated as a terroir, which is hard to argue with. Discussion got a bit emotional when we talked about Philippe Engel’s vougeots, which she absolutely loves. Recently picked up 4ha of vines that were previously in metayage, including some Echezeaux and Vosne Romanee. Net addition is 2ha as the domaine was previously getting 50% of the grapes from those.
Sylvain Pataille. What a character. 2 hours tasting session was part motivational speaking, part stand up comedy, part history lesson, part oenology class and part wine tasting. Went through 22 separate cuvees. Anyone who complains about the price of burgundy should try those: they’re wines of character, place and passion yet most of the cuvées cost sub €20 ex-domaine. His lieux dits aligotés in particular are well worth seeking out, as are his reds (in particular Clos du Roy and Le Chapitre). Based in Chenove, which feels like frontier burgundy in many ways: it’s the end of the cote, where vineyards face the suburbs of Dijon and it’s also where young, ambitious winemakers can afford to buy land and start on a blank sheet of paper in terms of winemaking. Sylvain is, in my book, the most charismatic, dynamic and interesting young winemaker in Burgundy today…