Big fan of Conterno Barbera’s (Francia & Cerretta). Have not tasted the '04 Francia, but have loved the '05, '10, '11, '12, & '13.
The '05 Francia was the Barbera that 1st opened my eyes to Killer Barbera (thanks, Eric!).
I definitely don’t consider these simple wines, but they certainly are put together quite differently than many reds with high-ish acidity, low-ish tannins, & often high-ish alcohol. Have not yet had one of these Conterno’s come across as hot, with their generally excellent intensity, acidity, & dry extract.
A few of my favorites over the past few years.
2005 GIACOMO CONTERNO CASCINA FRANCIA BARBERA (93 Points)
Fairly deep ruby. NOSE > Wild red-fruit & minerality. Wild-Cherry, Red-Cherry, Raspberry, Choke-Cherry, Blackberry, licorice, & a smoky complexity.
PALATE > Big, rich, but very tight. Great tension. Wild/Red/Choke-Cherry, Blackberry/Raspberry/Blueberry, licorice, limestone/minerals, & wood-smoke.
Excellent balance, acidity, depth, length, & intensity. The tension between rich ripeness, & tight, concentrated red-fruit is beautiful. Ripe tannins take a back-seat to the gorgeous fruit, & add back-bone/structure. Impressive.
2011 GIACOMO CONTERNO CASCINA FRANCIA BARBERA (94+ Points)
Deep, bright ruby red. Big, aromatic, exotic, savory, & rich. Intense Morello-cherry, red-raspberry, tart choke-cherry, lilac,
red & black-mulberry, beef-blood, lavender, violet, & wild red, blue & purple forest-fruit.
Elegant, intense red/mineral fruit. Med-light tannins. Excellent acidity, intensity, depth & length.
Gorgeous, Beautiful, Luscious, Pure fruit. Great Barbera - this has it all. (slow-oxed 5 hr, then decanted)
2012 GIACOMO CONTERNO FRANCIA BARBERA (94+ POINTS)
Gorgeously pure, intense red Morello-cherry/cherry-stone, red-raspberry, wineberry, red-mulberry, violet, rosa-ragusa, &
rose-petal on the nose. The sexy, sappy red/wild fruit is a very big WOW!
Palate is tight, ripe, sappy, fluid. lean, & long with beautiful red, Morello-cherry, floral fruit. Packed with juicy/fruity minerality on the nose & palate. High acidity, but has the fruit to carry it.
Low-ish tannin. Great balance really accentuates the stunning fruit, & elegance. Beautiful already with some air, but really needs some time. Might never quite match the '11, but this pretty, elegant, fruit-driven beauty will have a longer drinking window, & should put on a little bit of weight with some time in the cellar, & likely gain another 1/2 a point or so.
The '10 & '13 Francia are just slightly behind the '11 & '12, & ahead of the '05 for me (the '10 with darker fruit, but not quite as massive as the '11; the '13 more red fruit-ish, & closer stylistically to the '12).
I usually like the Vietti Scarrone almost as much as the Francia, & the '11 Scarrone VV has been spectacular the few times I’ve tasted - best Barbera I’ve had to date.
Have not tried an Altare Larigi Barbera yet, but an '11 La Villa (60/40 Barbera/Nebbiolo) gave the '11 Scarrone VV a run for its money as the greatest Barbera based wine I’ve had.