TN: Mouton Rothschild at Bobby Vans

Last night our Bordeaux group got together at Bobby Van’s for a Mouton tasting. I didn’t actually own any Mouton, but Frank generously agreed to a trade. I arrived to the round table to find a bubbly waiting, couple whites followed soon after.

2008 Gaston Chiquet Special Club
Almost every time I drink a special club (usually Bara, Michel, or Gimmonet for me) I think I should buy these more. Add Chiquet to the list. Lemon, apple, and sourdough toast. Nicely balanced, fun. B++
2014 Louis Michel Montee de Tonnerre
I liked this a lot though my neighbor did not. Fresh, vibrant, flinty. B+

1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Much more advanced than another recent bottle, OTH and oxidized. C-

Unfortunately we were well into the reds by time appetizers arrived, I wouldn’t recommend ‘86 Mouton and crabcake as a match. Porterhouse went fine with later reds.

Solo
1970 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
I had a pretty good bottle of this a few years ago, but this is past it. Good color, but some caramel/soy on the nose, pruney on palate, and tired clipped palate. C+/C

Second Flight
1985 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
This had a different character than the others tonight, but I liked a lot in a Figeac kind of way. Funky with noticeable (but not offensive to me) barnyard, obvious acids, red fruits with leather and cedar. A-/B+

1986 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Big but with approachable tannins, young black fruit, just developing mocha, cigarbox, and earth notes. Really a beautiful (young) wine. A-/A

Third Flight
1988 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Tannic, lean, I tend to like ‘88 more than most, but this was a little too ‘88 for me. B-

1989 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Plusher style, some lead pencil and tobacco, moderate finish. B+

1990 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Surprising some green notes for a ‘90, but a nice mature midbodied claret if not what one might expect from a 1st in a ripe year. B/B+

Fourth Flight

1995 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Lush and plush with sweet black fruits, nice length, maybe a bit held in reserve. B+/A-

1996 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Tight, structured, just some cassis peeking through, maybe just shut down hard but even allowing for that I thought a bit disappointing compared to the other ‘96 Firsts I’ve had. B+/B

Final Flight
2000 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Young, structured, but pretty approachable. Red and black fruits, a little coffee and spice, funner now than the ‘05 though I think the ‘05 wins on potential. A-/B+

2003 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
The sweetness and ripeness are there, but I’m happy to not find this OTT ripe. Most overt oak, big tannins, moderate finish. B

2005 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Even though this is young and primary, there’s some leather and spice peeking out, a little espresso too. Very full scaled, but nice balance of tannin, acid, and fruit A-/B+

Group voting (3/2/1 format)
1986 29 pts
2000 17 pts
1989 11 pts
2005 5 pts
1985 3 pts
1995 1 pt

Very fun night.
I thought the highs were VERY good, though a couple wines were a little disappointing for their vintage.

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

I love the artwork on 1970

I think that whenever I drink a Special Club, then regret it when I try and fit a bottle into my wine fridge.

Thanks for notes - the '85 and '86 sound especially good. Was the '86 given a lot of air?

I recall Diane saying that she decanted the 1986 sometime in the afternoon right before our dinner.

Great notes, Dale. A night of great wines and the usual fun company … but just as the wines were, everybody was in great post-holiday form last night.

As for the wines, the 1986, 1989 and the 2005 were the standouts for me.

Shame that the 1970 did not show better.

Also delighted that the 1986 has finally settled down. My last bottle was pretty closed.

actually, NO. i didn’t do that with the 86. slightly complicated … but to cut a long story short: opened 30 min before i left, took a whiff, stoppered, stepped on subway, and decanted about 30 min afterward i arrived at the venue w/ a funnel into a large decanter. less is more but some is required. at home i’d say a couple of hours in a modest sized decanter would have been good. held up solidly. i kept a glass aside and after the first blossom, solidly unchanged.

… and Dale thank you for the notes, which at some point I stopped typing into my phone when i got in to my tomahawk meat comma. really loved that night! very special. you rock.

So did people feel like Mouton was a true first growth, after trying the panoply?

Can’t speak for anyone else, and I’m not sure I drink enough 1sts to be opining (but why let that stop me) , but I’ll give a considered “maybe.”
Really, the highs are great. It’s just there seemed to be a fair number of “good” wines in vintages where others 1sts are great ('90, '96) and “meh” wines in vintages where other 1st are quite good ('88 vs HB or Latour).

Great notes overall Dale. I’m a HUGE fan of the 2008 Chiquet Special Club. I tasted this at a dinner with David White (But first, Champagne), and it was off the charts. I bought a 6 pack from a retail friend of mine the next day. Just had one like a week ago, and it’s really coming on strong in only a few months. Well worth what I paid (around $70)

I think you switched your 2000 and 2005 glasses…

Thanks for the notes Dale, interesting and usefu as always. I wonder if your 88 was below par? I find it a wine which is really starting to go through the gears…it is not quite there yet, but getting there in a promising way - have had a couple in the last two years.

Perhaps, and likely due to over-enjoyment. I liked both 2000 and 2005 with just a slight nod to one of them.

I enjoyed the dinner so much that I also left my take home leftover steak.