Served double blind at my brown-bag group. Decanted for varying periods before being served. We think this was the first time we’ve had two first growths in one tasting, and some members have been in the group since the 60s.
2000 Ch. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux): Bordeaux scents immediately. Seems like some cab franc and some brett. In the mouth, I thought Bordeaux at first, but there’s a lot of acidity here. Earthy, cab franc-like, with a richness alongside the acidity. The richness follows through on the finish, too. Pondering the acid and the green pepper/cab franc notes, I started to wonder if this might be a ripe year Chinon ('89 or '90 Raffault, perhaps?). Whatever, it was a very nice wine.
A bit of a surprise. Where did this acid come from in 2000? And the estate is only 6% cab franc. As usual, it’s best to go with your first, gut guess.
2004 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac): Dark color. Lots of black currants on the nose, plus some celery. In the mouth, it’s tannic and clearly cabernet. But it’s not giving up a lot now. This wine seems like it needs time; there seems to be enough fruit behind the tannin. I guessed '05 Bordeaux from the structure. Didn’t guess first growth quality.
1988 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac): On the nose, ashtray/burnt wood, a fair deal of reduction (sulfur). Cabernet? Syrah (suggested by the reduction)? In the mouth, this has hard tannins. Seems cabernet-like. Or is it a heavily reduced Northern Rhone? “Not that old,” I wrote. (Ha!) There was a touch of bitterness. I wasn’t sure if that was hard tannins or the reduction. Brutal tannins at the back.
In short, kind of the way I remember the '88s. I know some people say they are drinking nicely now, but this one was not. Not sure it will go anywhere particularly nice.
Once again, my first instinct – cabernet – was correct.