TWO 2012 GIACOSAS (AND OTHER BAROLOS)
I tasted at Bruno Giacosa in June 2015 where the Nebbiolos we tasted were the 2011 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Albesani di Neive (attractive, strawberry compote, red fruited, fresh and approachable), the 2012 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili (better than the Albesani, more savoury and complex, sweet cut hay) and the 2011 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto (the best at the tasting, elegant, not heavy like some '11s, but with palate coating tannins and serious structure).
We didn’t taste any Red Labels on our visit, but from our tasting, the tour of the winery and what we were told by the young winemaker, Francesco Versio, my impression was more of Giacosa building again to get back to the very top, rather than having already arrived back at the summit … In any case, I wasn’t blown away on the day by the 2012 Asili, or the other Giacosas, unlike wines like the 2010 Cogno Elena or the 2010 Cavallotto San Giuseppe at other Piemontese tastings … But, to be fair, it was only one tasting, at a particular moment in time.
It was good to be able to recently taste with the importer two 2012 White Labels after some other Piemontese wines (which gave good context).
The wines were decanted all 6.5 hours earlier (which seemed about right). Among other Italian wines we tasted:
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2007 Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Brownish red colour. A very evolved nose of dry brushwood, autumn leaves, old leather and dried red fruit. Seeming prematurely advanced on the palate. Red fruited and earthy, a little rustic. Acidity over-prominent, perhaps the fruit has slipped away? Slightly bitter tannins on the finish. I don’t (at all) know this wine, but a 2007 Barolo should have more primary fruit than this. My score assumes it’s not a bottle storage issue. (85 pts.) -
2011 Damilano Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Vivid purple red. That’s much better. Vibrant, primary aromas of menthol, blackberries and other black, and some blue, fruit. Very lush and ripe. Sweet, dark berries on the attack. Quite big boned with good acidity. Tarry and sleek. Rich, generous 2011 character. Serious tannins but quite fine grained, presently a little drying on the relatively long finish, but that’s no problem for such a young Barolo. Reasonably accessible now but it’d benefit from three or four years in the cellar. (91 pts.) -
2007 Cascina Cucco Barolo Cerrati Vigna Cucco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Fresh and lively perfumes of red fruit and blood orange with some florals and spices, a real contrast with the 2007 Damiliano. A good, well balanced Barolo with racy acidity and good fruit weight and Serralunga concentration and power. The elevage, to my palate, is well in proportion and well done. Produced by a winery I’d not heard of previously. From the winery’s 1.5 ha Cerrati monopole at 400 metres above sea level in Serralunga d’Alba. South to south-east facing, limestone soils, vines 16-50 years old. 91+ (91 pts.) -
2005 Mirafiore Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A nose of smoke, tar and minerals with black cherries and other dark fruit. Quite a serious, minerally Barolo on palate. Layers of black fruit, liquorice, tar and iron. Well structured. Plenty of dry extract and power. Good length. At present a little austere and closed. Very 2005. It needs at least another 3-4 years in the cellar. (92 pts.) -
2012 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Only one sniff of the Falletto was necessary to see the quality here. A gorgeous, floral, lifted bouquet of strawberries, raspberries and other mainly red fruit, dried herbs and rose perfumes. In the mouth, juicy and voluptuous, with huge architecture and tannic structure. The tannins are suave and ultra-fine grained. The lovely, fully ripe fruit hides the serious structure here and the balance and proportion are superb. It’s a cellar wine but, at least at the moment, it has typical 2012 early accessibility. (93-94). (93 pts.) -
2012 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
What a difference 18 months makes! Even a better bouquet than the Falletto. Still with red berry compote notes but with more intense spices and florals. Some minerals and dried leaf nuances. On palate, more precise, and fresher acidity than the Falletto. Seemingly lighter bodied than the Falletto, complex red berry melange, minerals, spices and dry underbrush. Lovely Barbaresco sparkling acidity. A long savoury finish. Presently the more accessible of the two Giacosas. I decided that, for different reasons, I liked the two Giacosas equally. (93-94). (93 pts.)
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