Do's and Don'ts for Vigneron Visits in Burgundy

I am looking forward to taking my first trip to Burgundy in a few months. My London-based friend will hopefully be setting up appointments for us at some of the better addresses. I’m looking for some basic Do’s and Don’ts when tasting in France. I have this stereotypical image of a vigneron in his boots enduring the naive questions from Americans when he’d much rather be out in the field tending to his vines. I’m sure there are some growers like that, others who really enjoy tasting with potential customers, and most somewhere in the middle.

So I’m asking what are some basic rules of the road to be a gracious guest and to get the most out of the experience, e.g. don’t overstay your welcome or don’t ask personal questions.

Please share any tips from experience that you can. And it’s worth noting that my travel partner speaks fluent French. I will be the mute wing-man.

Also I’m curious from winemakers on the board – what types of questions during tastings do you most enjoy and what are the ones that grate or annoy?

Thank you all in advance!

If you want to bring gifts for the Vignerons, bring Zinfandel!

We generally bring a small gift, but haven’t thought to bring Zinfandel

We have brought edibles or handcrafts (like Charleston Sweetgrass baskets) from our region as well as hand painted notecards from our daughter who is an artist.

I always take notes and I always spit.
(mostly)

Don’t park your helicopter on the lawn.

I have this stereotypical image of a vigneron in his boots enduring the naive questions from Americans when he’d much rather be out in the field tending to his vines.

Seriously? With a baguette and some cheese? Maybe wearing a beret and riding up on his bicycle when you arrive?

Rule #1 - whatever you do, don’t act surprised when they don’t fit that image. They actually have concerns about terrorism, the economy, the environment, their ailing in-laws, getting the mechanic in to replace a leaky fitting, and all the other issues of daily life.

Rule #2 - don’t ask for questions from other people. Ask your own. Show some genuine interest.

Rule #3 - don’t expect people to open their oldest and rarest wines for you just because you showed up.

Rule #4 - be polite. Remember that you might not hit it off with everyone you encounter. And again, show some genuine interest.

Rule #5 - you don’t have to take notes and you don’t have to spit, particularly if they actually open something really good. People don’t have to play Robert Parker when visiting a winery. You can just enjoy the moment and leave happy.

People in all walks of life tend to be willing to engage with anyone who seems genuinely interested in what they do, but coming in armed with a series of questions just in case you don’t have anything to talk about is a horrible way to visit. Would you go on a date that way? If so, I would suggest you ask, “Hey baby, what sign are you?”

The fact that you showed up demonstrates some interest so build on that and be an all around good guy and you’ll have a good time.

And actually Eric is on to something. Zinfandel is considered an “American” grape so if you’re bringing something, that’s not a bad one. Lots of wine makers in Europe are kind of curious about it.

Best!

Greg has great tips. Do your best to help them with any language barrier. The only thing I might add is be careful if you mention a relative’s Domaine. Sometimes the parting of ways has not been a happy one…

My lone tip: Don’t be the ugly American and say things like “if it weren’t for my grandfather, you’d be speaking German!” or “I liked the armory in your WWII museum - all the weapons were like new, never fired, only dropped once!”.

I would learn at least some basic idioms in French … the more the better - but even if the conversation switches to English (which isn´t sure) it´s always good to say “hello” and “thanks” in their language …

I have always a good bottle of wine from my region with me …

It´s also good to know some basic information about each producer: which wines (crus) he´s got in his portfoglio for instance (and where the main crus are situated) …
It´s also helpful if you have tasted a bottle or more previously (and know which vintage …)

DO NOT ask in BURGUNDY from which variety the red or white wine is made !!!
(if it is Gamay or Aligoté you will be told anyway …)

Some of this has been stated previously, so forgive me if I’m repeating.

Don’t assume you should just pour out what’s left in your glass. You may be asked to pour anything left in your glass into a container, which will then be poured back into the barrel (or you might be asked to pour it directly back into the barrel). This is also true if they open an old or rare bottle for you. The vigneron will likely have the remainder of the bottle for dinner that night, and will not allow any of it to go to waste! I find that it’s easiest to simply ask at the outset (or just follow the vigneron’s example). The practice varies, and often depends on the size of the domaine and/or the wine being poured.

Always say hello, thank you and goodbye in french – even if the vigneron speaks english. It’s also a good idea to learn a few other phrases; seriously, it is often greatly appreciated.

Knowing something about the domaine is a good idea. It reflects your interest. They will be much more inclined to prolong the visit (and the tastes!) if they see you’re interested. Though if you don’t know much you can simply be up front about it; it’s better than trying to fake it. Simply tell the vigneron that you’ve heard many praises about his or her wine, and you’ve been eagerly anticipating trying them – then ask questions!

Even though your travel partner speaks french, ask questions in english to be translated (if the vigneron doesn’t understand engish). No need for you to be silent (I like your reference to the “mute wing-man”), and it might be misinterpreted as disinterest on your part.

Above all, have fun!

Be on time. Seriously. 2:00 means 2:00 and really you should plan to arrive early because you probably will get lost even with a GPS.

If going to a domaine with many cuvees, spit at the beginning so you can swallow the grand crus and still drive.

And watch them spit first. Some spit right onto the floor, others would never dream of that. Follow the lead. Maybe practice spitting before you get there so you don’t have to lean over or risk getting it on your shirt.

I have not ever brought gifts (the logistics of that would be prohibitive for me), but I always follow up with a thoughtful note thanking them for their hospitality and generosity.

Don’t expect to be able to buy anything if a price list isn’t offered. They probably don’t have much to sell, and many would actually prefer you to buy it at home.

Finally, if your appointment happens to coincide with that of a local who’s ITB, you have been blessed. Pace yourself, because you will be drinking a lot and it might be one of the greatest tastings of your life.

And be on time.

Bring them a Confederate flag, a cheeseburger, wampum, blue jeans, and an unearned air of superiority. Most French vignerons are very hard of hearing because of the years of “cellar noise” so be sure to enunciate slowly and loudly. And remember: over there belching is actually a compliment!

Do bring a small gift. Something personal and local to where you live. They are not charging and it is a kind gesture.

Be on time!

Thank you for serving your country in combat.

Practice spitting if you haven’t before.

My first time spitting in a cellar (long time ago), a bucket on the floor was provided. I did my best, but I missed the bucket and instead hit the owner’s white canvas shoes! She teased me mercilessly for the remainder of our visit (I offered to pay for cleaning/etc…she was very nice and said they would be fine).

Also, what Greg said about Zin is correct. Everyone I’ve visited in Burgundy, and elsewhere, loved receiving this.

I think this is all wise advice. In France generally, even if you don’t really speak French, a few words of greeting and introducing yourself in French shows courtesy and respect. Knowing something about the producer helps a huge amount. I remember visiting with Roberto Conterno where I was paired up with a very nice English couple. But the husband started going on about Giacomo Conterno splitting from the family. Uh… actually that was Aldo. Oops.

Thanks all for some great tips.

I know a bit of French so I won’t be truly mute.

I also appreciate the suggestion on Zin. I’m curious if some more obscure IPOB Pinot would be of any interest to local winemakers there?

And a small gift indicative of my roots is a great idea. I surf in Malibu so I bet a token from there might resonate as the name has international cachet

Yes, I think it would.

once upon a time I visited Christian Gouges in NSG together w Rob Sinskey.
Rob presented Monsieur Gouges with a bottle of his latest Sinskey Vineyards Chardonnay, saying among other things that it had been vinified without malolactic fermentation.
Monsieur Gouges was not frightened. He responded: alors; je vais provoquer le malo, avant de le boire…

I’ve (friends and I) given Burgundy Vignerons west coast IPOB style Pinots (Oregon and Ca, no Ladd tho) as well. They were all nice/gratuitous, but were completely uninterested in it…and that was a universal reaction. The zins otoh were received with enthusiasm. The zins we gave were more of a balanced style…such as Ridge (+ others).

I think this is because they drink a lot of Pinot Noir (aka red Burgundy) and are highly opinionated about it…Zin otoh is a new, unknown experience for them, without any european versions that they’ve grown up drinking and forming opinions about. They all know what Zin is of course, and some have had it tho rarely typically. If they ask what it’s like, often they’ll ask if it’s similar to a southern rhone wine…we’ve told them it was a bit like that.

I think that’s about right. Of course, it depends on the wine maker.

In Spain they have been interested in Zin every time I’ve brought any. But also other kinds of things, like Garnacha, Monastrell, Syrah, or good Cab. In fact, because a lot of people “know” Syrah, and there’s so much interesting Syrah being made in CA and WA, that’s a good one to bring.

And since they’re unlikely to have had much, something from WA or even NY might be kind of interesting.

I wouldn’t spend too much time worrying about the perfect choice though - it’s a gesture. They should appreciate it as such.

Have a good trip.