I visted Tuscany recently and made a stop at the Felsina winery. They are very friendly to visitors and everybody is able to taste the newest wines. These are my impressions.
2013 Chianti Classico
This wine seemed to be slightly closed. Even with swirling it did´t offer much in the nose. In mouth it was obvious that this wine does´t offer much of a mid palate. What stands out is the impression of a lot of freshness if you will. But it´s also fair to say that the fruit was obviously barely ripe and the wine has lots of acid. So the sour cherries Chianti is know for are more sour than cherry. It can be that I tasted the wine at a bad moment but if you compare this 2013 to the 2010, 2011 and 2012 versions 2013 is the weakest of them all. At least IMO.
2011 Rancia
It was very interesting to have this superb wine after the 2013 normale. No comparison at all. Wow. Very complex nose of dark fruit, liquid minerals and tobacco leaf. Velvety in mouth with layers of black fruits, menthol, licorice and the right amount of balancing freshness. This is a complete wine IMO and I will buy some bottles.
2011 Fontalloro
Not as open in the nose as the Rancia and obviously more oak. Same impression at the palate. The additional tannins coming from the barriques make an impression on your tongue. It´s fine wine also but the oak masks the true nature of the fruit a bit too much IMO. Time will tell if the wood will finally be completely integrated but it´s hard to say right now. Needless to say that I prefer the Rancia today and probably in 10years.
2009 Farnetella Chianti Riserva, Colli Sinesi
Farnetella is a different operation owned by Felsina and not located in the Chianti Classico zone. The wines are cheaper but very good in many vintages anyway. Therefore I tasted the 2009 Chianti Riserva. Unfortunately this was somewhat of a let down. In the nose this wine showed a good portion of volatile acidity. Furthermore it had some artificial sweetness I did´t care for and it lacked freshness. This Chianti is not for me.
As a sidenote I like to add that the wines at Felsina are all served a tad too warm. That´s an illness in entire Tuscany or Italy. I ate in several very good Trattorias in Firenze and Siena and while the food was always at least satisfying I had to ask for refrigerating the red wines for 10 minutes everywhere. 16 to 18 degrees celsius is fine for a Chianti, 22 degrees plus is almost destroying the flavors. I have no idea why the restaurants don´t invest in a Chambrair. It´s a pity.