I went through the trouble of taking one for the team with these, so I might as well report on them. This is one these odd situations where a local retailer bought a stash of these at auction (from who knows where), and apparently I have enough of a reputation around here that he specifically wanted me to try them. These were bottled for “Heika” (not sure who they are) and imported by a company in Lenexa, Kansas. A little research indicates that even today, these two chateaux are under the same ownership.
The basic character of these two is very savory with what would have been attractive attractive fruit, which is consistent with my notes for the 1973 Mouton (from 2009).
Chateau Belcier, Cotes de Castillon 1973
Cork in pretty good shape and came out in one piece. High shoulder fill. Light garnet. Vinegary and with brown sugar notes on the nose and palate, but under that there is what once must have been very attractive blackberry and tobacco; it still very much makes sense that this is Right Bank. Improves for a while with air before collapsing into offensive territory. Frankly, not really worthwhile even for academic purposes. 0 Stars. [5/28/16]
Chateau Ramage La Batisse, “Chateau du Terrey,” Haut-Medoc 1973
Cork in tolerably good shape, but came out in two pieces. High shoulder fill. Light garnet. Somewhat acetic with some brown sugar notes, and with plenty of mature glycerin notes (although those don’t combine with the acetic notes in an particularly nice way). Not showing too badly, with a personality of black raspberry, black cherry, and somewhat Pauillac-ish notes of graphite, cured leather/tobacco, and gravelly mineral (and a search after writing those notes confirms that the chateau is in fact near Pauillac - it’s nice when the terroir makes sense). The nose in particular might have been a very nice example of the northern Medoc at one time. Sadly, that time is not now. 0.5 Star, for academic interest. [5/28/16]
All 1973 Bordeaux I ever had (a good 8-9 examples incl. Latour and Mouton) were dissapointing, most were a fraction of what a good Bordeaux can be. Even the two 1st growths tasted like old 20-25 buck bottles, if there hasn´t been the label on it.
White 73 Burgundies are a much better bet - and even some reds (although without much meat on the bones).
If 1973 the better I had were Rhones …
Coincidentally, we were just talking about '73 Bordeaux last night at a Margaux dinner. Most people at the table had never had even one 1973. Laura and I and Dave and Gena Yates had a '73 Beychevelle a few years ago at a restaurant in Santa Barbara (from our Santa Barbara stash). We warned the sommelier that she might not want to even bring it to the table after decanting.
Fifteen minutes later she came back with the decanter and bottle: “I think you’re going to want to try it.” Turned out to be terrific, against all odds. We certainly didn’t expect that, but were very gratified.
Now I don’t write off anything, no matter the year. A year ago we had a 1965 Yquem from someone else’s stash of old wines. Parker had never reviewed it, an indication, I thought, of the inferiority of the vintage. Broadbent, reliable old Broadbent, had reviewed it, but very negatively. Zero stars.
Turned out to be really good. Not a great Yquem, but a really good one.
With proper storage, many unexpected things happen.
Great luck, Larry. 1972 and 1973 were the first release years for Bordeaux when I first got into the business. The only good thing that came of these vintages was a collapse in Bordeaux prices after the overhyped '70s. I had a number of wines of both vintages back then. Not much there there. The only '73 that I recall having more than once was the Mouton. As 1973 was the vitage Mouton was elevated to First Growth, a lot of people seemed to be popping them in honor of the reclassification. It did have a great label.
Indeed, I’ve had a number of defied-all-odds experiences over the years. I’ve also had bottles of what should have been wonderful wines that were clearly not at there best. Win some loose some.
I’ve had the '73 Mouton and the '72 Petrus, both in their mid-thirties. They both opened up quite nicely before declining, but they were both pleasant still. I can imagine them having been quite nice with a meal up through the end of the 80s or so.
A 1973 Chateau Margaux I got as a gift 10 years ago was a horrible experience. First the bad vintage and then the mismanagement of the Chateau during that era until the Mentzelopoulos family took over. -0 points.
I almost opened the 1973 Mouton yesterday at the Berserkerfest when Leo said it was his birth year, but he wanted to go with the old Burg, which I then proceeded to forget to open. I bought it at Zachy’s, probably in about 1977, for less than $10. Fill i mid-shoulder. The wine is supposed to be horrible.I bought it for the Picasso label. Although that was about when I started collecting, I have no memory of drinking 1973s. I think they were uniformly poor.
When I had the Mouton in 2009 (with a better fill level mind you) it was still worthwhile. 7 years later and with worse ullage though, I wonder if that bottle is better off unopened.