TNs: 2016 PORTO AND DOURO INTERNATIONAL WINE TASTING IN TORONTO

PORTO & DOURO INTERNATIONAL WINE TASTING

SUMMARY: A smaller event from a criminally underrated wine region delivers fantastic wines in an intimate setting buoyed by an enthusiastic mix of both media and consumer crowds.

PROS: Intimate event with plenty of time to talk to all reps and visitors from the wineries. Excellent reds and Ports. Enthusiastic mixed crowd of mixed media and consumers.

CONS: Reps running out of wines due to underestimating crowds. No Madeiras, Moscatels or Vinhos Verdes.

Portuguese wines face an uphill battle which is really odd when you consider it’s the 7th largest wine exporter in the world. Google will tell you Portugal exports far more wine to the world than South Africa, Germany, Chile, New Zealand and all the US wine regions combined. Yet how many of can name a California winery without a second thought and not be able to name a Portugese winery unless Port or Madeira is involved? They’re one of the world’s top ten wine exporters yet have next to no Q rating or place in the hearts and minds of most mainstream wine consumers.

The flip side is that for those of us in the know, Portuguese wine is the biggest bargain in the wine world today. Their quality reds easily IMHO compete with and even best the red blends of the Bordeaux region for a fraction of the price. The prices are low and will likely remain so for a good long while. If you love red wine, you simply have to give Portuguese wine a fair shot to be part of your collection.

Two weeks ago I found myself in a relatively small event room in the Sheraton Centre in downtown Toronto at the annual Porto & Douro International Wine Tasting. Last year’s event was an extremely low-key affair that, despite a very good free Port seminar and tasting, was decidedly unenthusiastic and lacked excitement. This year’s could not have been more different. Despite being a third of the size of the massive California Wine fair, the enthusiasm and buzz in the room was just as high thanks to the fact that both media and consumers were present at the same time.

This was the first time I’ve ever experienced this at a wine event and frankly I feel strongly that every professional wine fair should have that format after my experience here. Too often I find media portions of wine fairs tempered due to the self-seriousness of the wine media and the pressure wineries feel to make a good impression on restaurant and hotel buyers and especially the LCBO itself.

Not so this time around. It was clear that there was a true love for Portugese wine and the country of Portugal itself, as I ended up in a number of conversations at tables with non-pros who had traveled to Portugal and discovered the wine there for themselves. The energy was sky-high and the room was loud and crowded, yet there was still intimacy with all the winemakers and reps who were in turn buoyed and I would say even shocked at the high enthusiasm and energy level.

The only hiccup was that as a result of the pro and civilian crowds mixing, a few of the wineries present actually ran completely out of wine. A couple of the wineries admitted to me that last year’s low-key affair led to them underestimating this year’s event as they thought, and I quote, “I thought it was going to be a quiet event where I’d pour some wine for a few wine critics.”

Barring that small hiccup, I was really pleased at the turnout and happy for the wineries to be surrounded by the happy and rowdy energy that filled the room, especially after last year’s subdued event. It was a definite shot in the arm and you could see and feel their spirits being lifted as a result. I look forward to the next event in Toronto.

QUINTA DO CONVENTO 2013 DOURO – Strong ruby color and plum flavors, high heat on the nose and body, soft tannins. Imagine a Ruby Port without the sweetness and this is what you get: a high quality and very tasty red table wine. Not the most complex but very good nonetheless.

SENHORA DO CONVENTO 2012 PROPRIETOR’S RED BLEND – Even lighter than the Convento above. It’s very light bodied and soft on tannin and heat while being more acidic and just as fruit forward. In other words, the equivalent of a French Beaujolais Gamay.
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VEGA 2013 DOURO – Single varietal Touriga Nacional. Tasty but falls a bit short of the two above in that its finish is quite short which I attribute to the single varietal only as opposed to a blend. I think it might’ve benefited from being a blend more than a single varietal.
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PATAMAR 2013 DOURO RESERVA – Dense red wine with high heat and full body. Strong tannins. Blackberry flavor. Bordeaux like. Probably can age quite a bit.
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ESCADA 2007 DOURO – Best red blend of the night. Medium-bodied, rich plum and blackberry flavor, strong but smooth tannins. If the Quinta do Convento is a dry Ruby Port, this is a dry Vintage Port.
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QUINTA DOS MURCAS 10 ANOS TAWNY PORT – Richer rancio characteristics than I normally find in a 10 year old Tawny combined with strong red fruit flavor. Not enough to convince me to give up 20 year olds, but this is definitely one of the better 10 year olds I’ve ever tried.
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CRASTO 2014 DOURO – Outstanding but you couldn’t expect less from one of the better Port houses. Every bit as good as the Escada if not better but far too young.
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TAYLOR FLADGATE 20 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT – A million notes have been given on this, and a million more will come to the same conclusion: this is the standard by which all 20 year old Tawnys are judged. Perfectly balanced rich rancio caramel toffee and ripe red fruit flavors. The overly alcoholic body and nose of past vintages is clearly rectified, this is completely harmonious.
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WARRE’S WARRIOR FINEST RESERVE RUBY PORT – Best of the Ruby Ports on site, rich blueberry, raspberry and spice flavors combine with surprisingly soft tannins for a Ruby Port to make a nice little dessert sipper. Not too sweet, either.

COCKBURN’S SPECIAL RESERVE PORT – Also a nice Port, it had much more cinnamon spice flavor and sweetness as well as stronger tannins which gave it quite a different feel than the Warre’s Warrior. I think this would work better with a fruit dessert than on its own.
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Was this the IVDP tasting?
I’d say that Crasto is more famous in Europe for their table wines than their Ports.
And I’m going to disagree with you on the Taylor’s 20 year old. Personally I think it’s one of the weakest wines of their portfolio.

The event was put in by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto and was in fact touring all of Canada as was the Austria event prior to this, the New Zealand event and the Germany event afterwards which I will also be reporting on.

Regarding the 20 Year Old Taylor, I would agree there are better wines in their lineup particularly the 30 Year Old. However, I feel that this doesn’t detract from what I felt was good quality in the 20 Year Old. The only issue I have with the Taylor Fladgate 20 is that I have always been able to acquire 20 year olds from other houses of equal quality and sometimes even better for a much lower price. For me the issue is not so much quality as it is QPR with Taylor Fladgate but I acknowledge that it is a pretty great wine.

Thanks for this report, Tran. I am very pleased especially to hear your recounting of the vibe in the room. Also, many vinos I have not tried—in fact all are new to me other than some earlier vintages of Crasto wines and the Taylor Fladgate 20 year tawny, which I have liked but not loved, with the proviso that I’m not a lover of tawny in general.

Maluhia,

Mike

Excellent write up. I was at the IVDP tasting in Los Angeles prior to this event. The IVDP has been absent for some years at doing these tastings, at least here in the States. The short version is, they used to have their own bank account which paid for promotion. With Portugal’s economic crisis the gov’t realized they had millions of Euros in their account and raided it (IVDP is a governmental agency that is [was] autonomous). They now only get a yearly budget like every other gov’t agency. They were given a small amount to spend on these tastings this year, thankfully.

I think the Taylor’s 20 has come a long way in recent years. The Fladgate Partnership (TFP) appears to have put a good foot forward with improving their tawny’s for Taylors and Fonseca. They are now quite good in comparison to previous bottlings.

Hey. Tran…I was here with my co-worker right when it started and tasted through all the stuff.

Great fun but I was blown away by the chocolates the guy was making down the end of the room. Loved the event and the structure. I took few notes since my friend was VERY new to the style of wines.

for the money mike, the 20 is very worth it. i can not justify the increase in price for the 30 or 40 with the slightly better quality and style preference i have.