TN: Cab Franc goodness. 2014 Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux
The past 2 vintages were, at best, like-able and sometimes bordering on “so what?”
The 2014 Les Grezeaux definitely shows of a higher model featuring balance with acidity, red fruit, herbs and freshness. Drank well over 2 days, but I expect the usual shut-down soon. Made me excited about the release of the Croix Boissee and Clos Guillot later this year.
Interesting, I had a 2012 about a month ago that was excellent after a long decant. I’ve been less thrilled by 2011 (I’m assuming '11 & '12 is what you mean by the last two vintages) but its been a while since I’ve opened one. I recall it being very green.
I’m looking forward to the 2014 given the vintage and the quality of the Granges.
Was there no '13? IMO '11-'13 in the Loire weren’t very good. There have been some likeable wines, but I’ve had some really, really bad ones too (not Baudry). I’ve been excited by the 2014s I’ve had so far. 2015 supposed to be excellent as well.
I don’t know for sure but I can’t say that I’ve ever seen a 2013 Grezeaux, nor are there any in CT. Maybe someone could enlighten us. For the most part I’m with you on 11 - 13, just pointing out that the 2012 Grezeaux exceeded expectations and might be worth a look.
Guion made nice '11s, and although I skipped '12 and '13 I bet that I’d enjoy them. Of bad wines from that period, I recall picking up some Chanteleuserie (sp?) wines on closeout that were so unbelievably dilute I can’t believe that they left the cellar. Other producers the wines seemed passable but somewhat boring.
I drank the second half of a bottle tonight and quite liked it:
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (5/26/2016)
Popped, filled a half bottle to try tomorrow, and half an hour later started drinking. Tight, but less so than expected. Fresh and attractive aromas - ripe dark red fruit balanced by sap/sapling/leaves and rocky earth. A rich sweetish note like malt or caramel (from some judicious oak?) which works fine even if it’s a bit surprising, and in any case seems like it will integrate with time. On the palate, rather tannin-dominated and clearly way too young, but tasty nonetheless, with fairly intense fresh red cherryish fruit, sap, and gravel. Plenty of acidity. Slightly bitter gravelly finish, very dry. Certainly promising; will tuck my other bottles (and any more that I acquire) away for some time.
Day 2 (stored in a half bottle): Not a huge change from day 1, but drinking very well; somewhat more open and more together, with smoother tannins.
In a visit with Mathieu a few years ago, while walking the vineyards, the gnarly old vine trees of vines in Grezeaux, the oldest of the estate I believe (some 90+ years) are in the flats with fairly rich deep soil. This combo allows for: greater frailty/sensitivity to stress due to age, great complexity and depth in healthy years, and greater proneness to issues with moisture maladies due to the richsoils. This “clicked” for me to explain both the exceptional quality the Grezeaux can achieve, as well as the inconsistency.
Matthieu Baudry took the time to welcome us though the cellars and tasting room to taste some for the 2013, 14 and 15 wines.
2015 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosé- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
A lot of stuffing with a nice bitterness and ample fruit. Not usually a fan of Rose but this ones hits the mark with the bitterness lifting the fruit for a good structure.
The generous 15 vintage is good for this rendition.
2015 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Les Granges is on a sandy soil more sensible to climate variation.
In the generous 15 vintage, it gives a very beautiful crunchy fruit, very fresh. Nose is a little soothing with spice and freshness. Feel the acidity first then some soft tannins. Elevage is done in concrete tanks. Beautiful juice and vin de soif.
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Domaine- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Sandy soil on top of clay and limestone.
More floral nose with a ‘classical’ Chinon structure and feel. More round, fresh red fruits. A bit short finish - was just bottled 15 days before. Elevage is done on concrete tanks for 15 months. A bit spicy and chalky finish (the limestone).
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Sandy and gravels soils.
There is a great fruit concentration on the nose with a good finesse and freshness. Has a more body. A touch of iron and lifting acidity.
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Tasted from the tank. Limestone soil.
Some reduction that quickly blow off. Wow this is delicious! As the Grezeaux was round, this is is very straight. Fantastic dimension. Subtle tannins. Powerful yet elegant.
Elevage is done first in concrete tanks then 1 year on barrels then one year back on concrete tanks.
Can’t wait for this to be bottled!
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Tasted from barrel.
Cherry, some chocolate, fresh vanilla from the wood not yet integrated. More serious, and mature than the previous wines. Effortless acidity. The grezeaux is young son, the Clos guillot the wife and Croix boissee the patriarch of the house.
Superb finesse, some chalkiness, fantastic stuffing. This will be a very good Croix Boissee.
2013 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Very low alcohol :11.5%.
Superb freshness. Fresh acid cherry with some salinity ( clams?). Already good accessible Chinon. Matthieu talked about a naked wine, showing the minerals of the soil(limestone) because of the 2013 vintage.
Lovely.
2013 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Still a bit of wood to be integrated. Light alcohol(12%). Kirsch Cherry, light, fresh and structured. Slight salty finish.
Lovely.
2015 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Not bottled yet. Clay / Limestone soil.
Citrus fruits / grapefruit nose and fresh fruit, white flower, with a very straight and mineral finish. Salty, hint of sea breeze. Well structured. This is going to be great. It rocks!
1996 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Wow! Very beautiful old aged Chinon. Spice, acidity and elegance. Alive. Has some smokiness, tobacco leave and some iode.
Guessed a bit older vintage of one of the limestone cuvee - wrong : it was the sandy / gravel Grezeaux 96!
1996 apparently took time to show up, and the strong acidity of the vintage makes it a long live wine. It clearly has the stuffing to age further - but why wait this is fantastic.
This was a revelation and learning experience to taste the same vintage of different parcels, showing different facets of the Chinon terroir.
And 1996 Grezeaux is a fantastic wine and another proof - if needed - how aged Chinon is fantastic ! Posted from CellarTracker
To add on top of it, I felt that the wines are brighter than in the past ( thinking 09 /10 vintages), and Matthieu mentioned that they scaled back the use of sulfite added even more than in the past - not that it was a lot anyway.
Astute observation, Ramon. Popped it and followed over 2 nights, virtually impenetrable. Searing acidity. Only toward the end of a 48-hour period, after much coddling, did it start to show its promise. I have a lot of this, sit for 10 years. I’m sure I’ll check in before that, but this is the most closed Les Grezeaux that I have ever tried.
