Beautiful bronze color. After two hours in the decanter, fragrant aromas of peaches, apricots, citrus, apples, flowers and flint. Wonderful to smell. Medium bodied and concentrated, with flavors of apricots and citrus that coat the palate. A taste of bitter grapefruit emerges, but dissipates as it sat in the glass. Viscous mouthfeel and silky texture that glides over the palate. Real purity and elegance here. A touch of sweetness enhances the flavor profile. Nice acidity and a long, lingering finish. A beautiful bottle that appeals both to the senses and intellect.
Schaetzel farms biodynamically and produces wines of purity and finesse. While he is known in Alsace, he is relatively unknown here. I’ve had great bottles over several vintages. If you can find it, try his 2008 Gewurztraminer Cuvee Reserve. Delicious, and full of lychee and rose petal flavors that complement a range of Asian cuisines well. It was so good I went through a case in no time.
Thanks a lot for your note, Peter. I think Schlossberg is one of the very best Riesling vineyards, anywhere, but I’ve never heard of Martin Schaetzel – I’ll have to correct that if I can track down a bottle.
Good to read something on a producer that doesn’t seem to get much coverage outside of France. I visited with them two years ago and didn’t quite understand the current situation. From what I understood, the Domaine was sold to Michel Vié who originally comes from the financial world in 2011, but Jean Schaetzel still assists in the vineyards and cellar. They have given up some vineyards which - IIRC - were rented, Schlossberg and Marckrain among them. As Grand Crus they now only have Kaefferkopf, Pfersigberg and Eichberg as well as Rangen de Thann where they purchase grapes.
I found the wines outstanding at the base, especially the Riesling Ammerschwir and the Gewürztraminer Cuvée Isabelle. Those were so much better than the entry-level wines at other estates I visited. I didn’t get a handle on the Grand Cru Gewürztraminers, they were too bitter for me. I also didn’t care much for the Pinot Gris. I really liked the Riesling Grand Crus and loved the sweet wines. Since my visit, I popped open a few bottles here and there and have been more satisfied with the wines I bought than when tasting at the Domaine. I guess the wines need a lot of time to really show their qualities.
That’s a name from the past…I remember when I was first getting into Alsace rieslings, loading up on their '83s and '85s. Haven’t even seen them around since…and…despite many visits to Alsace since 1983, never thought about visiting them.