1996 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste
The mature, gorgeous nose exposes truffle, rose, iron, and balsamic notes. On the palate, a perfect balance of acidity, alcohol, and smooth tannins, with dark fruit, earth, and iron flavors. The finish lasts 60+ seconds, although the fruit is slightly bitter. A reference traditional Barolo. While this wine is unlikely to significantly improve, it has many years left. Drink through 2025 at least. > (95 pts.)
I enjoyed this at Locanda dell’Arco in Cissone, Piemonte on the recommendation of Marta Rinaldi. Somehow she forgot to mention the incredible selection of her own wines. Most Piemonte restaurants, surprising to me, focus on breadth—they have recent vintages of nearly every Barolo producer—while old bottles, particularly stored well, are harder to find. Locanda dell’Arco broke the mold, with an incredible wine list. Unfortunately they were out of the 1989 Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste, so I had to “settle” for the 1996. It cost 150€!
The wine was gorgeous, with initial notes of truffle giving way to floral, ferrous, and balsamic notes. Great balance. I note the bitter fruit on the finish in my TN, but that could have been from sediment, as the bottle presumably wasn’t standing up prior to my arrival.
Locanda dell’Arco is off the beaten path, about 20 minutes south of Monforte d’Alba, and didn’t show up on anyone’s recommendations in my pre-trip research (not to be confused with Osteria dell Arco in Alba). I highly recommend it for the deep Barolo menu, the food, and the gorgeous mountain-perched town of Cissone.
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