TN: 2004 La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Riserva

Dinner at Bazaar in Los Angeles last night, was looking for an 04-05 Rioja and this caught my eye.

Drank over about 1.5 hours though it was very nice from the initial pour. Nose confused me and was very reminiscent of a Bordeaux to some degree. Very nice fruit that was balanced by very smooth tannins, bit of vanilla something else I couldn’t really nail down. I like Riojas but don’t drink them enough but I’m considering buying a case of this as I’m really interested to see what it does over the next few years. Verdict 94+ in the context of other Riojas. (Didn’t know this before hand but there was a big, obnoxious RP 96! sticker on the bottle but it seems to be well liked across most critics).

Thanks for the note as this wine is must buy for me each and every year. For me, this is the best value in the wine world.

They age well and have been enjoying some from the early and late 90’s that still seem young to me.

Yup. Had this last week in a tasting of La Rioja wines over several decades. I’m not sure I’d go to 94 points on this, but a serious, beautifully balanced wine.

Glad to hear it, I have a few in the cellar.

The only thing holding me back from giving this the same score was the acidity. It’s obviously made to age several decades, but being so young it wasn’t as pleasant as I was hoping for. I’ve tried both the '01 and '04 with the same conclusion. Might have to wait 2 or 3 decades to really enjoy Alta 904 Riserva.

I am with Dennis, I think my enjoyment of the 01 is at least 10 years away. Stuck 'em deep.

Tried this at the winery this past summer and was very impressed and bought a few bottles. Then worked through a bottle over dinner in Madrid and thought it was excellent but certainly one to hold for a few more years before popping. I am pretty new to Rioja (tried more in a week in Spain than I think I had during my entire life prior) and so am not sure how its profile fits in and how it will age in the very long run but would love to see how this is at age 30…

I’d say a very nice QPR for the $40 that it costs in the US (steal at $29 cellar door)…which reminds me that I should pick up a few more.

My notes from a week ago:

Fresh black cherry notes, though some early signs of maturity/evolution; good fruit depth and concentration, good tannin and acid structure, but the overall impression is soft because of the fruit. Great acidity on the finish. The refrigerated leftovers were even better the next night – it had fleshed out a bit.

90+ for me, and only a tad behind the 2001 Gran Reserva 890 at three times the price.

I wonder if my case will arrive before Premier Cru goes full-on Bernie Maddoff

It’s hard to know why this wouldn’t be delivered by now. The 2005 seems to be the current release.

The 2005 is the better vintage as well. It drinks well now and I think will drink well for years to come. The 2004 is a great vintage too, but not as enjoyable now. Same with 2009 and 2010 - both good but the 2010 wines are tighter and more closed while the 2009s are ready today.

Thanks for the TN, I had this 3 months ago and when they initially poured it I thought they had the wrong bottle because it reminded me of an aged Bordeaux. I’m with you on 94+

Huh, didn’t find that at all. Was smooth and balanced for me.

Update: Bought a bottle of the 2005 on Friday while back east and it was good but not nearly as good as the 2004. Will have to repeat with the 2004…



OK, we can have a battle of the Ts as you two duke it out over the vintages.

Just picked up another 2004 for $40 at PJ’s as they didn’t have the 2005 they advertised on their website. I was looking for the latter based on Greg’s post.

I’ve been fortunate to try it twice in the past year, once in January and once in August. Notes:

“Saw this old friend in the store and wanted to try it too—it’s been many years since my last taste. And this unfurls beautifully in the glass. Aida gets a touch of dill and I see that too, but as it gains air, a delectable cocoa element supersedes that and mixes in with plum fruit. On the tongue, chocolate and bits of leather continue around plum and blackberry fruit and all is in its place and balance. This can probably go at least another 15-20 years but is delicious now with a bit of air in the glass. Wonderful with the lamb.”

“This was my purchase, partly because I have one at home I wanted to check on and partly because I know what I’m getting. And no disappointment here. Rich cherry, chocolate and light cinnamon in the nuzzie. To taste, velvet, sweet but smooth, and with a spicy length. Plum and cherry, it’s very good, but needs meat at this stage of its career. No sign yet of any tertiary components. #6 nevertheless.”

So in neither case did I get anything approaching over-acidity. Nevertheless, should be left to age, as mine will be for hopefully 3-5 years.

Just opened a bottle of the 2005, which is really singing. It’s hanging together very nicely, with lots of tempranillo sour cherries, a kiss of oak caramel and good acidity. Very modest tannins. It’s at a nice moment now, but it’s got the balance to develop, I think. I like this better than the 04s I tried last year. They went in and out of focus over the course of the bottle.

So, as usual, Greg is right.

I wasn’t as keen on the 904 as many of you were. I think the problem was I drove the 2001 890 and compared them, when I really shouldn’t have. They are different price points 3x.

If you don’t like it you can use it as paint stripper. [stirthepothal.gif]

John:

Thanks for the note on the 2005. Looks like it is just starting to reach the market out here, and I look forward to trying one.

Thanks,
Ed