A good friend called to see if I could arrange a winery/ tasting visit for him and 4 others with Jim Clendenen at Au Bon Climat. I was happy to do that knowing and appreciating both parties well.
Tastings at the winery are not usually done. There are other labels under the same roof including some derivatives of ABC such as Clendenen Family Vineyard, Ici La Bas, Vita Nova and Barham-Mendelsohn, plus other producers like Qupe, Verdad and Makor and a few others. None of these have a dedicated tasting room there. ABC has a formal one in downtown Santa Barbara and only on 2 occasions each year does the winery open for the public, those being the 2 Santa Barbara County Vintners Association Festival weekends in the Spring and Fall.
I do know of and have had many fine and extra special luncheons at the winery with Jim who is a gourmet chef and when in town and at the winery, prepares a grandiose lunch for all of the staff and workers and any guests who might be fortunate to be included.
Jim graciously accepted and extended the invite to include me. The leader of the group agreed for me to join. The 6 of us enjoyed a fabulous barrel tasting along with an incredible lunch served with a special selection of library wines Jim put together for us from the stable of Au Bon Climat [ABC]/ Clendenen Family Vineyard [CFV] wines. We also took a few wines to offer as a thank you for the invitation.
Some of many barrel samples, all good, included:
2014 CFV BLOCK K LE BON CLIMAT CHARDONNAY **
2014 ABC LOS ALAMOS CHARDONNAY
2013 CFV HAPPY CANYON VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC
2014 CFV LE BON CLIMAT VIOGNIER
2014 ABC BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD PINOT BLANC **
2014 ABC BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD HISTORICAL VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR **
2014 QUPE SANTA MARIA VALLEY CHARDONNAY RESERVE *
2014 QUPE ROUSSANNE *
2014 QUPE SAWYER LINDQUIST VINEYARD SYRAH **
*= very good
**= excellent
Our lunch began with a champagne which we contributed:
2008 LOUISE BRISON BRUT- from K&L, this turn on and great QPR is comprised of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay; its bright acidity and clean, refreshing mousse deliver pleasant citrus notes in a palate cleansing manor all the way through the nice finish; another example of stellar bubbly from 08 and blind trust in K&L.
To compliment the incredible array of buffet presented style of locally home grown, freshly picked and nutritious foods, we shared:
1st flight of 3 ABC Chardonnays:
2003 ABC SANFORD & BENEDICT VINEYARD CHARDONNAY- a superb Chardonnay with tantalizing flavors, good mouthfeel and mature fruitiness offering nice complexity.
2002 ABC SANFORD & BENEDICT VINEYARD CHARDONNAY- minerality, citrus and green apple notes abound with this creamy, rich wonderful Chardonnay; the KIND.
1997 ABC SANFORD & BENEDICT VINEYARD CHARDONNAY- showcasing the longevity traits so many of Jim`s wines have across the board, this displays all of the depth, complexity and evolution that one could ever want from allowing a wine to age gracefully because it could; at low alcohol and high acidity, it is so viable and has a lot more to give over many more years.
2nd flight of 3 white blends:
2004 ABC HILDEGARD SANTA MARIA VALLEY [BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD]- 55% Pinot Gris, 40% Pinot Blanc and 5% Aligote; one of the marquee white wines we were graced to have from this producer, this shines year in and year out as well as over time; this was creamy rich with minerals and balanced acids supporting the myriad of flavorful notes.
2003 ABC HILDEGARD SANTA MARIA VALLEY [BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD]- another gem in the mold of the 04 with the same blend % and similar pleasing taste and mouthfeel; it may have a bit more spice and toastiness to compliment the citrus, floral character than the 04.
1999 ABC HILDEGARD SANTA MARIA VALLEY [BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD]- again, the same blend %, but this one has more complexity and more sensory pleasures as enhanced by the extended maturity; its spicy vanilla and clove accents are an extra treat; a treasure with promises for more down the line.
Before moving in to the next flight of 3 Pinot Noir, we opened one of the gift box wines our group brought:
1955 LOUIS MAX CORTON GRAND CRU- the label, fill and bottle condition were impeccable; this bottle was seriously flawed with Brett.
3rd flight of 3 Pinot Noir:
2000 ABC MOUNT CARMEL VINEYARD SANTA RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR- delicious and evolved Pinot Noir that is coming into its own and with a lot of time to still develop; a nicely balanced wine with tasty fruit with a spicy accent; this and the next 2 were made with stem inclusion and 75% whole cluster fermentation.
2001 ABC MOUNT CARMEL VINEYARD SANTA RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR- tantalizing fruit and texture are featured along with really nice acidity; fabulous wine with so much more to give for so much longer.
2002 ABC MOUNT CARMETL VINEYARD SANTA RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR- after a spicy raspberry/ cherry hit on the nose, this had a tad more fruit than the 2 predecessors along with similar smooth silky mouthfeel; it had a depth of layered flavors and a welcomed long finish; again, this has longevity potential for another 5-10 years+.
4th flight of 3 Pinot Noir:
2003 ABC SANFORD & BENEDICT VINEYARD PINOT NOIR- stunning from the nose through the tail; a complete package with complexity and charm with lovely acidity and a red and black fruit profile to please no end; this wine is in perfect balance and one I want in my cellar.
2004 ABC SANFORD & BENEDICT VINEYARD PINOT NOIR- similar to the 03` except the fruit was not quite as forward, but the beautiful balance was emulated; this is so pleasant and fulfilling and a stand alone Pinot Noir treat.
2005 ABC SANFORD & BENEDICT VINEYARD PINOT NOIR- although comments were made that this vintage presented some challenges, this wine did not reflect it; again, nice acidity and noticeable balance are hallmarks of the complete experience this offers.
5th flight of 2 Pinot Noir:
2006 ABC ISABELLE PINOT NOIR- Cuvee Isabelle is considered to be a “premier Pinot Noir release” from ABC since its first offering in 94, this consistent winner comes from the best of the best of the vineyard sources which each contributing to the final blend; Ive had them all and this shines in the top tier of the top tier; complex, depth, balance, bright acidity, spicy fruity good flavors and superb mouthfeel through the long finish make it the complete package AND this is a pup with big dog aspirations in the lineage of this stellar blend.
2005 ABC ISABELLE PINOT NOIR- considered to be a challenging vintage, even the best of the best vineyard sources were considered to be inferior to the norm and Ive liked this wine since release; Ive had many and as Jim constantly reminds me, it has a long time to develop and get better so “wait”; this bottle was on the tight and closed down cycle and was actually the first bottle Ive found to do the peak and valley dance; OK, Ill wait.
Another offering from our gift package:
2003 CHATEAU RAYAS CHATENEUF du PAPE RESERVE- made from 100% Grenche; after getting the nose, I looked at Jim and he looked at me and stated, “well it does not have as much Brett as the Corton”; I agreed, it was Bretty and there was some gifts to behold upon searching deeper; I got some spice and a bit of white pepper along with a hit of strawberry and raspberry with some earthiness, but….
6th flight of 2 Nebbiolo:
2000 CFV NEBBIOLO SANTA MARIA VALLEY- many do not recognize Jim has been making some fantastic Italian varietals for over 3 decades [under the label Il Podere dellOlivos and more recently CFV]; this is one of many that shines each time it is produced; these are aged for many years prior to release and although approachable then, they need and have all of the stuffing to go for a long ride; this bottle was so emblematic of that statement; its good now, but has so much concentration and complexity and serious fruitiness, its merely a vivid shadow of its potential albeit quite enjoyable on this occasion; its a lot more evolved than the last bottle I had a couple of years ago.
2004 CFV NEBBIOLO SANTA MARIA VALLEY- more of the same except much more forward dark fruitiness and some tannic structure that has not integrated quite to the extent as the 00; this is concentrated and intense Nebbiolo that gets ones attention right off the bat; lots of energy and wonderfully flavorful; although good now, I`d give this quite a few more years before revisiting.
During our hour plus driver shuttled ride to the winery, there was discussion about stopping off on the way back at the Lompoc facility where many fine producers have their wineries/ tasting rooms. I knew we were in for a full on treat and that would be probably enough to satiate all of us for the day, but held back from saying anything since this was their deal.
There was not even a hint to stop anywhere on the way back after our fantastic 4+ hour ABC extravaganza. WINK. WINK.
Cheers,
Blake