TN: Coche Perrieres, Lafon CdlB, Allemand Reynard, with food that has no stars

Near the Mairie de Saint-Ouen Metro station there is what looks like a concrete factory where BNP Paribas used to have a branch. Across the road, is a little restaurant that (on current reviews) rates a stunning 3.8 on Trip Advisor. I doubt the average is dragged down by white-burg lovers though, because the proprietor receives a generous allocation of Coche Dury - which graces the wine list at the sort of price that gives you an insight into “cellar door” affordability. We didn’t come for the food ! Seated in the courtyard - very pleasant, still 25 degrees in the evening, front row observers to the gallic ritual of mixing food, wine and tobacco. Some awkward moments where I had thought we’d been asked whether we had questions about the menu (in French, I did not) while my wife thought we’d been asked whether we had a reservation (we did, in fact we probably had three). We had probably been asked whether we wanted to buy a litter of stray puppies. Then a talking to that we really ought to order something that would go with the wine (which was fair enough). All overcome successfully anyhow for the right bottle arrived and we enjoyed generous flavorful, fresh salads to start, followed by skate (which was excellent) and pied cochon (which might have been crisped more, but the potato was great funnily enough).

Coche Dury Meursault 1er Cru “Perrieres” 2011
Bright light colour with just a dash of that young greenish tinge. I was a bit worried I would need to ask for a decant (young, closed), for which we had not filled out the required forms, but worry dissipated on first sniff. Yes, this is so so young but fortunately already quite generous. Sulphur, sweet oak and popcorn of course - but then super intense apple, citrus, truffle and rocks. Just going on and on. There’s that magical combination of massive power and palate penetration without any heaviness or cloying. It’s almost like you could pour a 750 into an empty 1500, top it up with water, and have a really nice normal Meursault en magnum. Contrasting to the '08 Rougeots the previous day, this is more structured and has simply greater intensity and energy. With time (sadly, how many bottles will be granted that?) this will be stunning. 94++ for now.


Off to Willi’s Wine Bar next (no, not the same day, that would be excessible) where I had heard the food has improved. Even as the seating has shrunk - presumably to ward off those chubby, uncultured [insert your own favorite stereotype]. Good to be back in the upper quartile of French Vocab at this establishment, with the sole French couple seated at a small remove and a table about thrice the size of others. Good, flavorful starters, my (North-African spiced?) lamb main was really good while the tagliata might have been served at least lukewarm by a place that cared. Anyhoo, average food just makes good wine shine brighter, right ?

Domaine Lafon Meursault “Clos de la Barre” 2007
From Coravin. Appropriately lush colour for its age. Yay for avoiding the premox risk, boo to a wine that is merely nice. Generous nose, dominated by tropical fruit really, though there were sulphur complexities and perhaps some lime trapped under there as well. Correct, clean, nutsy and gutsy, flavourful and balanced. Just not exciting, though I may be a little harsh after the Meursaults on previous days. Might keep a bit, but I don’t see upside. 88

Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard 2005
Lighter, more ruby hue than I expected (first time Allemandian). That’s not to indicate this wine is “light” but - fresh herbs and red fruit leap out on the nose. This is far from rustic (cf Clape, say). Intense, almost kirsch-liqueur-like streak on the palate, definitely sweet fruit, braced by good tannins, acidity, and of course the more savoury aspects: spice, black olive, blue florals (lavender? violets? let’s not pretend for pseudo-accuracy) and roast beef. This is really interesting. Combine some recent “meh” Cote Rotie experiences with some lovely Cornas ones, and I’m starting to wonder if the latter is the better appellation. I’m keen for more. 92+

Cote Rotie has become Parkerized. Cornas is sadly heading in that direction. Enjoy Cornas before it’s too late!

Thanks for posting, Rauno.

I like that place!

Great read. Thanks Rauno. Seems the more you spend the more you save. Coche is the answer.

thx for the notes, have a couple nights with no dinner res, so following your notes!