An embarrassment of Riches
What started off as an invite to enjoy a grouse and a bit of Richebourg turned into an astonishing evening of wine and the finest meal I’ve ever eaten at The Square. Hats off to all involved for pulling this together.
Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes 2006 – Ramonet (mag)
Worryingly deep in colour with a big, rich, buttery aroma. There was lots of discussion about whether this was oxidised or not. I tended towards thinking it was very 2006, and not particularly good, but not poxed. My bottles – all now drunk up – included some that were so much fresher than this. It didn’t seem to have the dullness of pox, though. The wine lacked cohesion. There was some anise but it was pretty diffuse and finished broad rather than focused. 15
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2006 – Dauvissat (mag)
Piercingly fresh and intense but with a strange reductive note. Almost not quite clean, but in a mineral, reduced sulphur sort of way rather than truly dirty. This really tightens up on the palate and drills down to a tooth-gripping, spicy, mineral finish. 17.5
And now to the Richebourgs…
DRC 2007
Smells of roses at first but with a back note of deep ash and cinder that slowly reveals itself as a smoky stem character. The palate is a compact, and just a touch lean, with a smoky edge. Fragrant, fresh and surprisingly well-muscled on the finish. 17.5
Grivot 2004
Fresh fruit aromas but also with a herbal, reductive hint. Marked by quite a lot of oak still. The palate is rich and deeply-pitched but has the resinous 2004 texture. Full, minty and verging on clumsy. A generous me would say there’s a big wine waiting to coalesce and emerge. It’s on the short side for its status though. 16
Hudelot-Noellat 2004
Delicate colour. Ethereal and scented but a touch light. The palate has the green notes of the vintage but it’s less intrusive than in the Grivot. It’s fragrant and light-footed but lacks some heft and intensity. 16.5
Anne Gros 2001
Very ripe, powerful and primary. A full, even concentrated, style that lacks some refinement. The alcohol pokes through and the tannins are a bit coarse. This shows Richebourg power but verges on the rustic. 16
A-F Gros 2000
An advanced colour and sweetly mature bouquet. Sweet and creamy in character. This perhaps lacks the assertiveness of Richebourg. Attractively smoky but not complex. 16
Hudelot-Noellat 1999
Tightly coiled and restrained. With coaxing this shows sweetness and fragrance. The palate starts off very tight then starts to soar. Expansive but remaining stern-faced. Long, linear and in need of lots of time. 18
Grivot 1999
Dark-toned, powerful and with very deep, luxurious fruit tones. The palate is mineral, tannic and has great line. Gives the sensation of a wine that’s aloof, majestic and immoveable. Intense and taut with great volume and a seam of minerality shot through its middle. Outstanding. 19
Anne Gros 1999
Marked toast aromas. Palate lacks both tension and textural complexity after the previous pair. Sweet and generous but lacking proper cut. 17
DRC 1999
Tight, floral and full of spicy stem complexity. Palate coating and scented beyond everything that’s come before. Those stems must have been so perfectly ripe. Silky but intensely powerful with huge length, spice and minerality. 19.5
Meo-Camuzet 1998
Strong colour and the deep, rich fruit of 1998. Dark-toned rather than red or floral, like the DRC. There’s a clear sasparilla note too. Rich and velvety but not exactly soulful. 17.5
A-F Gros 1998
Ripe and generous style. The palate has richness, vigour and spice. There are intense berry fruit notes – ripe and succulent. Only moderate complexity. 17
DRC 1995
On first pour this had the most stunning, complex and seductive perfume of fruit and spice. With air, though, it seemed to retract, close up and evolve to a coffee grounds aroma. It literally retreated into the glass. Very difficult to read. 16
Gros F&S 1982
Sweet, delicate and very high-toned. Has citrus fruit and orange rind aromas of high volatility. Sadly this is pretty frayed at the edges and into decline. 14
Rodet 1978
Deep, dark colour for its age. This is unknit, with vegetal and beetroot characteristics. Very structured but uncultured in this company. Not a great ’78. 15
Bouchard P&F 1971
Delicate perfume of roses and red fruit. The palate is sweet, spicy, full and with silken tannins. This isn’t exactly nuanced but the flavours expand to coat the palate and it has some complexity and spice. 16.5
Thevenin 1964
Oxidised and sadly shot.
Averys 1928 – possibly from one of the Gros family but, at this stage, who knows?!
From two halves, the first still had sweet fruit and was leafy, delicate and scented. A delicious old Burgundy. 17
The second half was mushroomy, old and tired. Drying out. 14.5
The cheeky 2004 Sauzet Batard Montrachet to finish was inspired!
Many thanks to all for a magical evening and to The Square for GREAT food and service.
Cheers,
Matthew
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